HOW-TO: Injector Removal Step-By-Step
#21
I finally got around to doing this for the driver's side bank on my 2012 XF, and thought I'd post some post-repair observations for those who might be following these directions. I had received a 'restricted performance' intervention, and smelled a massive amount of gas upon returning to my garage. After reading the codes and looking through the forums, I determined the fuel injectors needed replacing.
First off, I have to say, the most seductive thing on the web these days isn't ****, it's DIY threads/videos like these that make things look easy. ;-)
Some things that ended up being different/more difficult than the original posting.
-The rubber heat shielding was beyond a pain to get out. I don't know how I eventually totally freed it, but that thing is put in there ridiculously tight. Don't feel there was any need/reason to have it so wedged in there, but unlodging the back bottom of it caused me to lose my religion.
-The fuel rail would not come off easily. I thought somehow it was still attached to something when I first tried, so I tried calling yourmechanic.com to have them give it a try. The guy came over, tried a few things, and gave up. After much internal debating, I finally just broke down and started using a big screwdriver to loosen it. Once I finally saw it start moving, I continued on slowly. It eventually released after much coercion.
-The first three injectors came out just fine with the Utool. The last one was buried just deep enough that the tool wouldn't quite fit around it correctly. After, once again, much coercion and cursing, it was finally removed. Not fun.
-After the problems removing the fuel rail, I thought reinsertion was going to be a similar bear. I tried doing a test run by trying to slide a single injector into its respective location, but it didn't seem to work. However, after putting all new injectors in, the rail slid on super easily. Never would've expected it after all the hell it gave me to remove it.
After placing everything back together, ran for a couple days and received an MIL. :-( Read out the code, came back to the forums, where someone indicated they found one of the sensors not fully attached. Sure enough, somehow I hadn't clipped in one of the cylinder sensors. Everything's been golden since. Including some pics of the removed injectors just for fun. Not sure which one failed, since they all looked like crud.
First off, I have to say, the most seductive thing on the web these days isn't ****, it's DIY threads/videos like these that make things look easy. ;-)
Some things that ended up being different/more difficult than the original posting.
-The rubber heat shielding was beyond a pain to get out. I don't know how I eventually totally freed it, but that thing is put in there ridiculously tight. Don't feel there was any need/reason to have it so wedged in there, but unlodging the back bottom of it caused me to lose my religion.
-The fuel rail would not come off easily. I thought somehow it was still attached to something when I first tried, so I tried calling yourmechanic.com to have them give it a try. The guy came over, tried a few things, and gave up. After much internal debating, I finally just broke down and started using a big screwdriver to loosen it. Once I finally saw it start moving, I continued on slowly. It eventually released after much coercion.
-The first three injectors came out just fine with the Utool. The last one was buried just deep enough that the tool wouldn't quite fit around it correctly. After, once again, much coercion and cursing, it was finally removed. Not fun.
-After the problems removing the fuel rail, I thought reinsertion was going to be a similar bear. I tried doing a test run by trying to slide a single injector into its respective location, but it didn't seem to work. However, after putting all new injectors in, the rail slid on super easily. Never would've expected it after all the hell it gave me to remove it.
After placing everything back together, ran for a couple days and received an MIL. :-( Read out the code, came back to the forums, where someone indicated they found one of the sensors not fully attached. Sure enough, somehow I hadn't clipped in one of the cylinder sensors. Everything's been golden since. Including some pics of the removed injectors just for fun. Not sure which one failed, since they all looked like crud.
#23
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Thanks Silverstones!
For bringing this thread back from the dead.
I have run out of BG products and need some more (especially the 44K) but for the life of me I couldn't remember where I got them last time just over a year ago, and all the details I need are in my previous posts in this thread.
For bringing this thread back from the dead.
I have run out of BG products and need some more (especially the 44K) but for the life of me I couldn't remember where I got them last time just over a year ago, and all the details I need are in my previous posts in this thread.
#24
This set is a bit pricy, but it is useful for many other tight applications, and the long , slender handle works very well for coil bolts.
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...CABEgKHAPD_BwE
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...CABEgKHAPD_BwE
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Mbourne (08-13-2020)
#26
Hi
Great write up, Thanks for the info. I do have a question. Is there a way to avoid injector problems? If you use recommended fuel and fuel system cleaner like BK 44 on a regular basis can this be avoided
altogether?
The other question I have BK 44 is expensive and I plan on using it once a year is there another product close to that I can use more frequently to keep on top of fuel system cleaning?
I would like others to chime in on products they feel might be reputable...and really works.
Great write up, Thanks for the info. I do have a question. Is there a way to avoid injector problems? If you use recommended fuel and fuel system cleaner like BK 44 on a regular basis can this be avoided
altogether?
The other question I have BK 44 is expensive and I plan on using it once a year is there another product close to that I can use more frequently to keep on top of fuel system cleaning?
I would like others to chime in on products they feel might be reputable...and really works.
#27
Originally Posted by 2004XJ8
is there another product close to that I can use more frequently to keep on top of fuel system cleaning?
I would like others to chime in on products they feel might be reputable...and really works.
I would like others to chime in on products they feel might be reputable...and really works.
Here's an article I found
https://utilitywallet.com/best-fuel-injector-cleaners/
Don't know if these products are available where @OzXFR hangs out...
#28
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Look for products with the most PEA. (No, I'm not telling you which veggies to eat...that's your Mom's job.)
Here's an article I found
https://utilitywallet.com/best-fuel-injector-cleaners/
Don't know if these products are available where @OzXFR hangs out...
Here's an article I found
https://utilitywallet.com/best-fuel-injector-cleaners/
Don't know if these products are available where @OzXFR hangs out...
I don't recall ever seeing any of those products "on the shelf" at the four or five auto parts stores I have been to in Adelaide. Maybe the Lucas but def not the rest.
Anyway, I bought three tins of BG44K from my "supplier" yesterday and they are getting two cans of the CRC intake valve cleaner for me.
No-one but no-one in Oz sells BG44K on Fleabay, and the last time I bought some from the US the sale was reversed coz they can't ship this type of fluid OS (something to do with dangerous/hazardous/flammable chemical malarkey). I would guess the same applies to all the products at your link.
So as I said earlier I was very lucky to find a local supplier just 10 km down the road (so no postage cost) and at a good price.
#29
Also, is there a reason to get new injectors or use this service instead?
https://www.injectorrx.com
https://www.injectorrx.com
Looks like you'd save about $50-60 per injector before shipping costs. I don't know about reusing the gaskets
or finding new ones. I'd say to first remove the injectors, then make the call. I was unable to remove the one
closest to the firewall without destroying it. The other 3 probably could've been replaced, but I don't know if I
would've wanted to chance it.
As a side note, my new ones have been running great. I only replaced one bank, but did a BG 44K flush right
after install for the non-replaced side. Hopefully they'll hold out. Good luck with the replacement.
#30
#31
So I'm replacing the passenger side injectors. I got as far as the coil packs before the lack of space gave me pause.
Is this really possible on an 8 cyl? My hand can barely reach in that far back to unplug the coilpack, much less use any kind of tool with leverage
Is this really possible on an 8 cyl? My hand can barely reach in that far back to unplug the coilpack, much less use any kind of tool with leverage
The passenger side is the Easy side Try getting the E Z Red socket set I recommended earlier and the coil bolts will be easier to remove.
#32
I am actually on x351 XJ platform. Looks like the electrical box would somehow need to come out, the F type looks much more open. I'm not sure as the workshop manual only can be found for the diesel XJ not the 5.0 SC.
#33
I was able to do it on the driver's side of a 2012 XF 5.0. That last one by the firewall is a bear. I had to remove some of the firewall to get the plastic shield out. Once I did that, it became easier, but by no means easy. The puller tool wouldn't fit snugly on the injector, so I ended up pulling it out with only partial grip. The remnants of that injector are shown in a photo earlier in the thread.
If you can spread the job over several days, it helps. I would get tired, take a break, then go back to it. It can be done, but definitely not as easy as depicted early in the thread.
If you can spread the job over several days, it helps. I would get tired, take a break, then go back to it. It can be done, but definitely not as easy as depicted early in the thread.
#34
#36
yes im sure it could but id be more worried about it scoring the valve seats if it got caught, most of the injector carbon comes outs with the injector on the tip.
#37
Sorry to retieve old thread, I have 2011 XKR 70k miles and seems like i may have the same issue with bad injectors, was driving on highway and got blinking check engine light, with reduced performance message, took a exit ramp stopped on red light and when light turned green tried to give little gas to pull over to the side got white/gray smoke from exhaust and little knock from the engine. stopped the car truned off the engine. car smelled like gas... run code scanner and got missfire on one side of clinders.
cleared codes, called towing, tow guy tried to start the engine but it wouldnt start, it knocked for few seconds and would not start... when i opened the oil cap i could smell fuel in the oil
Is it safe to say that i need to replace injectors??? is it normal that engine would not event start? or the cylinders seized because of fuel in oil and my engine is gone?
cleared codes, called towing, tow guy tried to start the engine but it wouldnt start, it knocked for few seconds and would not start... when i opened the oil cap i could smell fuel in the oil
Is it safe to say that i need to replace injectors??? is it normal that engine would not event start? or the cylinders seized because of fuel in oil and my engine is gone?
#38
I doubt you've ruined the engine. I limped mine home after having the issue, and after I replaced the injectors and changed the oil, everything worked fine. I wouldn't read anything into the engine not starting either. I'd just change the injectors and oil, then diagnose any further issues at that point.
#40
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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