F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

How to remove a Broken injector?

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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 03:55 PM
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Default How to remove a Broken injector?

So I am down to my last injector and it broke and now I am trying to figure out how to remove without tearing down the engine. Trouble is I cannot a bolt extractor at the right angle to tab it on, think I am going to go to an ez out if I can find a way to drill it out. Anyone got a better way?

It is nbr 5 cylinder (2015 v6) on the right hand bank, the one right by the shock tower.

On a side note, I see where the water is draining almost directly over the number 4 and 5 cylinders. My next thought is to sue JLR for gross stupidity!!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 05:59 AM
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Remove the head and drive the broken piece out with a punch.
No other option at this point.

Be careful trying to avoid removing the head because any drilling you do could destroy the head real quick! The head is Aluminum and the bit of injector is steel.
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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 09:42 AM
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I am only going to drill into the injector barrel, so cannot hurt the head.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2024 | 03:56 PM
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For those following me, here is a step by step to remove without pulling the head.

1) break off the plastic around the base and use a pick to get out the bits and pieces.
2) Use a 10mm bolt extractor and I used a 12" half inch extension and and hammer to drive on the extractor onto the injector base.
3) use a breaker bar with a 3" extension (I used a impact extension for added strength) and turn counter clockwise. It took a lot but finally broke free and started turning.
4) get a #8 self tapping screw (Need at least 2" to clear the injector hole) and use 3 washers (glue the washers together and to the head of the screw (this is a must)
5) spray your favorite corrosion spray, I used PB Blaster and let sit overnight.
6) Use the injector puller and put on the screw and pull.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 07:21 AM
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Good job and man did you get lucky!
Thanks for the instructions so others can try it too.
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by randyb
For those following me, here is a step by step to remove without pulling the head.

1) break off the plastic around the base and use a pick to get out the bits and pieces.
2) Use a 10mm bolt extractor and I used a 12" half inch extension and and hammer to drive on the extractor onto the injector base.
3) use a breaker bar with a 3" extension (I used a impact extension for added strength) and turn counter clockwise. It took a lot but finally broke free and started turning.
4) get a #8 self tapping screw (Need at least 2" to clear the injector hole) and use 3 washers (glue the washers together and to the head of the screw (this is a must)
5) spray your favorite corrosion spray, I used PB Blaster and let sit overnight.
6) Use the injector puller and put on the screw and pull.
Evening! Well, I've seemed to do the same and broke cyl 5 injector.. I take it you were successful with your method? I'm trying to get as much plastic removed. Any additional hints or tips to this process on what worked or didn't?
This is likely my last hope/attempt before taking it to a shop which is very scary to think what they'll charge. Extremely happy to see your post and just hope to get it right before fully attempting.
thank you!,
Kevin
 
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Old May 4, 2025 | 06:54 PM
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Get a 5 or 10lb slide hammer, neglected to say that in my original post when using the screw and make sure to pull straight back.
Still ended up removing the head because number 4 would not budge for anything. Top middle 2 cover bolts on driver side and top three middle bolts on passenger side were so corroded, I had to drill them out and use an extractor. Also, had to get another driver side valve cover, as I kind of stripped the number 5 bolt for the coil and when I went to use a thread chaser, half the thread came out.
I blame it all on the vents being directly above the injectors and valve cover.
 
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Old May 5, 2025 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by randyb
Get a 5 or 10lb slide hammer, neglected to say that in my original post when using the screw and make sure to pull straight back.
Still ended up removing the head because number 4 would not budge for anything. Top middle 2 cover bolts on driver side and top three middle bolts on passenger side were so corroded, I had to drill them out and use an extractor. Also, had to get another driver side valve cover, as I kind of stripped the number 5 bolt for the coil and when I went to use a thread chaser, half the thread came out.
I blame it all on the vents being directly above the injectors and valve cover.
thanks man, yes mine is in very similar condition with the valve cover bolts totally rusted needing replaced as well.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 04:17 PM
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I'm wondering how cleaned the seats after you removed the injector?
Here how my seats look like


 
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 04:35 PM
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I don't see how they would work? Unless it's just magnified so much that it looks that way.

I also wanted the injector bores clean and have no problems.
I used compressed air into the spark plug hole while using my 90 degree air drill and brass round brushes.




I don't have a detailed shot after I wire brushed them but they were pretty much spotless. This shows a bit of the injector port.




The red line is pointing to the home made air check adapter setup. I ran 100+ psi air continuously into the spark plug hole as I ran the brass wire brush up and down the injector bore. Did each cylinder in turn. Yes I got some white dust blown out right at first.

Worked well and the round brass brushes came in a pack of different diameters. They are on Amazon too.
$25 for the set. I cut and modified the stems as needed.
Brass Brush Set Brass Brush Set
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Last edited by clubairth1; Jan 12, 2026 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
I don't see how they would work? Unless it's just magnified so much that it looks that way.

I also wanted the injector bores clean and have no problems.
I used compressed air into the spark plug hole while using my 90 degree air drill and brass round brushes.




I don't have a detailed shot after I wire brushed them but they were pretty much spotless. This shows a bit of the injector port.




The red line is pointing to the home made air check adapter setup. I ran 100+ psi air continuously into the spark plug hole as I ran the brass wire brush up and down the injector bore. Did each cylinder in turn. Yes I got some white dust blown out right at first.

Worked well and the round brass brushes came in a pack of different diameters. They are on Amazon too.
$25 for the set. I cut and modified the stems as needed.
Brass Brush Set
.
.
.
Already tried brushes.. No success. Trying to find seat cutters, but can only see for diesel engines
 
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