How To: VelocityAP Supercharger Crank Pulley
#61
High levels of various metals can indicate which specific components are subject to imminent failure (valves, rings, bearings). Water and fuel in the oil also indicate points of failure. Fixing the engine before a catastrophic failure destroys it is the real advantage of oil testing.
#62
Anyway, I'd investigate, but am not sure what form that would take. The first response would be to test again in a shorter interval. Given my past experience that might "soleve" the problem. If it persists, I dunno. Maybe start saving for a new engine? It really depends on the severity of the results.
#63
Six months with tune only then 18 months with pulley and tune and zero problems.
But I change the engine oil and filter every six months, not because of any added stress caused by the pulley & tune, but because 75% of my trips are very short (1 or 2 miles) and the engine doesn't even get warm.
Get the pulley & tune, you will love it!
But I change the engine oil and filter every six months, not because of any added stress caused by the pulley & tune, but because 75% of my trips are very short (1 or 2 miles) and the engine doesn't even get warm.
Get the pulley & tune, you will love it!
Thanks again, T.
Last edited by Red_99; 07-23-2019 at 01:20 AM.
#64
Join Date: Feb 2014
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#65
#66
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Quoted figures are 375 hp for the untuned S, 412 hp for just the tune and 450 hp for pulley plus tune.
So the S increments are + 37 and + 38, pretty much identical, but it sure feels like more than that with the second bump to me.
Also remember the base starts at 335 hp so the first bump to 412 hp is much greater.
And the pulley by itself without the associated tune achieves nothing.
Install cost for me at an independent mechanic was around $300 AU.
Last edited by OzXFR; 07-23-2019 at 02:04 AM.
#68
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The weeniest increase in SC whine from the tune only, it went from SFA to a bee's wotsit greater than SFA.
But pulley & tune was a whole other thing, heaps of SC whine now, under WOT and especially over 4,000 rpm it sounds like a 747 taking off!
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BruceTheQuail (07-23-2019)
#69
You shouldn't do the (lower) pulley first. It will throw codes. Adding the pulley to the tune is an even more significant change than when first installing the tune due to the torque increase.
#70
The pulley & tune felt like double the bump that the tune only gave.
Quoted figures are 375 hp for the untuned S, 412 hp for just the tune and 450 hp for pulley plus tune.
So the S increments are + 37 and + 38, pretty much identical, but it sure feels like more than that with the second bump to me.
Also remember the base starts at 335 hp so the first bump to 412 hp is much greater.
And the pulley by itself without the associated tune achieves nothing.
Install cost for me at an independent mechanic was around $300 AU.
Quoted figures are 375 hp for the untuned S, 412 hp for just the tune and 450 hp for pulley plus tune.
So the S increments are + 37 and + 38, pretty much identical, but it sure feels like more than that with the second bump to me.
Also remember the base starts at 335 hp so the first bump to 412 hp is much greater.
And the pulley by itself without the associated tune achieves nothing.
Install cost for me at an independent mechanic was around $300 AU.
I ask because I have an 18' and do not have the handheld OBD tool. Mine was installed using a tool that I borrowed from Stuart@ VAP so switching back and forth is extremely difficult if not impossible.
#71
Thanks for the response. I wanted to send you a message directly as I see you're quite active on the forumn, but I don't have privileges yet. In any event I have the tune, just trying to make sure the pulley is really what is claimed.
#72
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I'm really surprised that the pulley was so significant. Have you or anyone brought their car in for any peripheral engine work that was a challenge because the pulley is on the car and can't be removed?
I ask because I have an 18' and do not have the handheld OBD tool. Mine was installed using a tool that I borrowed from Stuart@ VAP so switching back and forth is extremely difficult if not impossible.
I ask because I have an 18' and do not have the handheld OBD tool. Mine was installed using a tool that I borrowed from Stuart@ VAP so switching back and forth is extremely difficult if not impossible.
Zero work done on my car since the pulley install, it's out of warranty anyway and I do all the service and maintenance work myself.
I think I read somewhere where Chris or Stuart from VAP explained that the DIY hand held (the VTech tool) doesn't work on late model F-Types (MY 2018+???) so instead they send you a "loaner" tool.
#73
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Take it from me, the pulley & tune really is what is claimed.
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#74
As Oz says:”Yep.” The tune and pulley are all they’re claimed to be. I had the stepwise improvement carefully documented on a dyno.
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mlebofsky (07-24-2019)
#75
Installing the pulley and tune on my 14 V8S and taking it to Brainerd International Raceway on the 1st of August for some track runs. This car is stock as of now, so I expect the difference to be quite a bit.
I'll have my Dragy on the car so I should have some real life numbers to provide in a couple weeks if anyone is interested.
I'll have my Dragy on the car so I should have some real life numbers to provide in a couple weeks if anyone is interested.
#76
#78
#79
#80
If they dawdle, it’ll take two hours. (They might charge 3). Same for both engines. Take tension off idler, remove belt, raise car on lift, remove under-tray(s), remove pulley. Reverse process. It might even go faster if the crossover intake tubing is removed to provide easier access to the tension idler.
Last edited by Unhingd; 07-26-2019 at 10:38 PM.