High levels of various metals can indicate which specific components are subject to imminent failure (valves, rings, bearings). Water and fuel in the oil also indicate points of failure. Fixing the engine before a catastrophic failure destroys it is the real advantage of oil testing.

 

Fair (and pointed) question. I don't have a prepared answer for that. I did have a bad report with my last car, that indicated possible coolant contamination in the oil. I mentioned it to my Service Advisor when I was in for something else, but told him to do nothing as my regular service was coming and I'd send another sample. He did look into it anyway and found no trouble. The subsequent sample showed nothing and there was no intervening oil change, so the sample must have been contaminated in some way. It was probably me, but I will never know.

Anyway, I'd investigate, but am not sure what form that would take. The first response would be to test again in a shorter interval. Given my past experience that might "soleve" the problem. If it persists, I dunno. Maybe start saving for a new engine? It really depends on the severity of the results.

 

While I do have the tune, I do want more. The supercharger pulley looks very interesting . When you got the pulley, what did you find exactly? Also, what did it cost for install?
Thanks again, T.

 

Eh?

 

Apologies. I have since edidted the post but was really curious for people who did the pulley and then the tune in stages, now significant was just the pulley?

 

The pulley & tune felt like double the bump that the tune only gave.
Quoted figures are 375 hp for the untuned S, 412 hp for just the tune and 450 hp for pulley plus tune.
So the S increments are + 37 and + 38, pretty much identical, but it sure feels like more than that with the second bump to me.
Also remember the base starts at 335 hp so the first bump to 412 hp is much greater.
And the pulley by itself without the associated tune achieves nothing.
Install cost for me at an independent mechanic was around $300 AU.

 

Cheers. Did the supercharger whine come from the pulley or the tune? Mine is going in for the VAP quad exhaust in about a month, might treat myself to something else though I got bent over on the cost of the OEM valance

 

Bruce, in case you are directing this question at me:
The weeniest increase in SC whine from the tune only, it went from SFA to a bee's wotsit greater than SFA.
But pulley & tune was a whole other thing, heaps of SC whine now, under WOT and especially over 4,000 rpm it sounds like a 747 taking off!

 

You shouldn't do the (lower) pulley first. It will throw codes. Adding the pulley to the tune is an even more significant change than when first installing the tune due to the torque increase.

 

I'm really surprised that the pulley was so significant. Have you or anyone brought their car in for any peripheral engine work that was a challenge because the pulley is on the car and can't be removed?
I ask because I have an 18' and do not have the handheld OBD tool. Mine was installed using a tool that I borrowed from Stuart@ VAP so switching back and forth is extremely difficult if not impossible.

 

Thanks for the response. I wanted to send you a message directly as I see you're quite active on the forumn, but I don't have privileges yet. In any event I have the tune, just trying to make sure the pulley is really what is claimed.

 

Yep, it really is that significant, just do it!
Zero work done on my car since the pulley install, it's out of warranty anyway and I do all the service and maintenance work myself.
I think I read somewhere where Chris or Stuart from VAP explained that the DIY hand held (the VTech tool) doesn't work on late model F-Types (MY 2018+???) so instead they send you a "loaner" tool.

 

Take it from me, the pulley & tune really is what is claimed.

 

As Oz says:”Yep.” The tune and pulley are all they’re claimed to be. I had the stepwise improvement carefully documented on a dyno.

 

Installing the pulley and tune on my 14 V8S and taking it to Brainerd International Raceway on the 1st of August for some track runs. This car is stock as of now, so I expect the difference to be quite a bit.

I'll have my Dragy on the car so I should have some real life numbers to provide in a couple weeks if anyone is interested.

 

I've called around, but I can't seem to get anyone to install except one tunning shop that's light years away. Also, to get the new tune that incorporated the pulley, should i flash begore going in to the shop or after?

 

After is fine; just don't drive it hard on the way home and you'll be fine.

 

Before is fine too. The maps to run the lower boost will still be in place.

 

good to know, thanks. If I can find someone to do it, how long (aprox) would you say install took? 4rs? In terms of install, my understanding is that the 3.0L is the same as the 5.0L?

 

If they dawdle, it’ll take two hours. (They might charge 3). Same for both engines. Take tension off idler, remove belt, raise car on lift, remove under-tray(s), remove pulley. Reverse process. It might even go faster if the crossover intake tubing is removed to provide easier access to the tension idler.