J light bar dimmed
I have removed the headlights on my MY 2015 F-Type twice now and the procedure is a little bit different to that shown in this video.
It's obviously down to HID vs LED headlights and maybe facelift vs pre-facelift as well.
On the HID / pre-facelift headlights there is no need to remove any wheel well / fender liner bolts to then access two headlight assembly mounting bolts, instead one of the three headlight assembly mounting bolts is behind a rectangular panel in the fender/arch liner, this panel is easy to see in the video. Just remove one (10 mm IRRC) bolt/screw to open that panel then undo the headlight mounting bolt behind it, and the other two headlight assembly mounting bolts are in plain view on top of the headlight assembly. Same size, again 10 mm IIRC, maybe 12 mm.
You also need to unplug the big round multi-socket headlight wiring plug (duh!) and last but not least you need to loosen (not remove) the six bolts across the front/top of the bumper cover.
Then gently pull the top of the bumper cover outwards a cm or so (away from the headlight assembly), this will give you just enough room to wiggle the headlight assembly out and away from the car.
It's obviously down to HID vs LED headlights and maybe facelift vs pre-facelift as well.
On the HID / pre-facelift headlights there is no need to remove any wheel well / fender liner bolts to then access two headlight assembly mounting bolts, instead one of the three headlight assembly mounting bolts is behind a rectangular panel in the fender/arch liner, this panel is easy to see in the video. Just remove one (10 mm IRRC) bolt/screw to open that panel then undo the headlight mounting bolt behind it, and the other two headlight assembly mounting bolts are in plain view on top of the headlight assembly. Same size, again 10 mm IIRC, maybe 12 mm.
You also need to unplug the big round multi-socket headlight wiring plug (duh!) and last but not least you need to loosen (not remove) the six bolts across the front/top of the bumper cover.
Then gently pull the top of the bumper cover outwards a cm or so (away from the headlight assembly), this will give you just enough room to wiggle the headlight assembly out and away from the car.
That was the reason last time for removing the headlights.
The stock HID globes were not bad but could be better so years ago I replaced them with stronger/brighter/whiter globes, stock 4,600k vs upgraded 6,000k.
They were better but I wanted better still so when I discovered fairly cheap plug and play LED globes rated at 7,000k I gave them a try and haven't looked back.
Much brighter and whiter light and zero problems after some four years now.
It's the same issue in many countries all over the world where extended warranties don't cover the lights and JLR don't care. I can imagine JLR got quite a few angry letters from clients but they're just not playing ball.
As you may have seen in the more up to date thread about this in the UK forum, Valeo are now producing a new version of the lights which supposedly have been improved and won't fail.
As you may have seen in the more up to date thread about this in the UK forum, Valeo are now producing a new version of the lights which supposedly have been improved and won't fail.
It's the same issue in many countries all over the world where extended warranties don't cover the lights and JLR don't care. I can imagine JLR got quite a few angry letters from clients but they're just not playing ball.
As you may have seen in the more up to date thread about this in the UK forum, Valeo are now producing a new version of the lights which supposedly have been improved and won't fail.
As you may have seen in the more up to date thread about this in the UK forum, Valeo are now producing a new version of the lights which supposedly have been improved and won't fail.
For those of you with 3rd party insurance policies (dealers will sell you these), most of them will not cover lights. Its because LED headlights are expensive and they insurance companies know them to fail across multiple brands, not just JLR. If you buy a 3rd party policy, get an exclusion one and read it top to bottom to understand what it covers. If it is a JLR warranty (i.e. CPO extended) I imagine they would cover it.
It sucks, I've been there (not with my F-Type), but it is the reality of owning any high end car that's out of factory warranty.
It's the same issue in many countries all over the world where extended warranties don't cover the lights and JLR don't care. I can imagine JLR got quite a few angry letters from clients but they're just not playing ball.
As you may have seen in the more up to date thread about this in the UK forum, Valeo are now producing a new version of the lights which supposedly have been improved and won't fail.
As you may have seen in the more up to date thread about this in the UK forum, Valeo are now producing a new version of the lights which supposedly have been improved and won't fail.
OP, you should contact Valeo ideally and perhaps somehow try and make sure that you get the new and improved version. Perhaps ask them how to know you are. It sure would suck to buy another one at these crazy prices and get another one of the ones that are bound to fail.
Check out the UK thread here: https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewto...6411&start=180
JLR should have sorted this out together with Valeo and the procedure for owners should be really simple - a recall or 100% (or near 100%) cost coverage for a replacement light if an owner brings it up with a JLR dealer, regardless of if there's a valid warranty or not.
People have been chasing both Valeo directly and JLR about this to no avail. I can see the short term commercial rationale of Valeo and JLR to just ignore and deny this issue but they both deserve to be named and shamed and get the reputational damage that this kind of mismanagement causes.
I have a 2017, built late 2016 that suffered from the lens microcracking. I bought it in 2020, with 18 months of factory warranty still on it. I assembled all the documentation, original Jaguar TSB, etc. The dealer/SM acknowledged the issue, took photos in 2021 and then nothing happened. Partly my fault as I did not pound on the table or raise my voice, just asked about it time after time. This last fall, dealer got a new SM, and I took it up with him. It took until this past April, but I got the new headlights (Vision Pack, the swivelers) I don't know how it was orchestrated, and I believe those HLs are about $3500 USD new. Researching now to learn how to prevent the microcracking from happening again.
We also have a 2018 Corvette (bought new) and at about 11,000 miles and 6 years in, part of the dash gauge lighting died. One would think that this is a usage based issue, rather than age. By that time the car was out of warranty, and dealer quoted $1500 for repair. We weren't happy. When we came back to pick up the car, the invoice was $300, probably covering the labor time.
As mentioned in a prior post, things like this happen across mfg. lines.
We also have a 2018 Corvette (bought new) and at about 11,000 miles and 6 years in, part of the dash gauge lighting died. One would think that this is a usage based issue, rather than age. By that time the car was out of warranty, and dealer quoted $1500 for repair. We weren't happy. When we came back to pick up the car, the invoice was $300, probably covering the labor time.
As mentioned in a prior post, things like this happen across mfg. lines.
I don’t think most people have a problem with random failures. This is cars. It’s when evidence starts showing something as being a clear failure that is coming, and that it will repeat if parts are not updated. Those are the ones that get car people in a tissy ;-0
Last edited by DMeister; Jun 14, 2025 at 08:16 PM.
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