Jaguar f type piggyback
They have tested on the V8's too and have them listed for the V8's including S, R and SVR.
There is no doubt that a full ECU tune is by far the best way to go. You can change several maps including ignition (Racechip cannot do that). One easy thing to realize is that the stock ECU tune is a great compromise that operates within certain calibrations (sensor ranges). When something doesn't quite "fit" in those, such as boost pressure you get a CEL.
An easy way to add HP is to tweak the ignition advance, this will take advantage of higher octane fuel that is strongly encouraged with higher boost pressures.
By increasing the boost pressure within the allowed range in the ECU and with the MAF reporting how much actual air is going in the engine, plus the feedback from the knock sensor and 02 sensors, the ECU will dispense the needed amount of gasoline to keep peak efficiency. Of course if you run a tad lean or if the cats get too hot, the ECO will make the mix richer to cool everything... including your power... (ried to make that easy to understand, I hope).
Some piggyback junk are nothing more than a resistor that shifts air temperature readings, one I saw is a resistor that fakes the Manifold air pressure sensor making it believe that the pressure is lower in order to retard the bypass valve. Those are JUNK and unsafe because Joe in his basement took a tester or actually looked up the sensor chart and came up with a resistor value to shift the reading.
There are many sources for good ECU tuning, VAP is popular here, Arden, Viezu etc. I of course use a customized version developed with Viezu to meet the needs of the modifications in my car. If warranty was not an issue go for a full ECU tune. If not, a real Piggyback system works but is of course limited.
An easy way to add HP is to tweak the ignition advance, this will take advantage of higher octane fuel that is strongly encouraged with higher boost pressures.
By increasing the boost pressure within the allowed range in the ECU and with the MAF reporting how much actual air is going in the engine, plus the feedback from the knock sensor and 02 sensors, the ECU will dispense the needed amount of gasoline to keep peak efficiency. Of course if you run a tad lean or if the cats get too hot, the ECO will make the mix richer to cool everything... including your power... (ried to make that easy to understand, I hope).
Some piggyback junk are nothing more than a resistor that shifts air temperature readings, one I saw is a resistor that fakes the Manifold air pressure sensor making it believe that the pressure is lower in order to retard the bypass valve. Those are JUNK and unsafe because Joe in his basement took a tester or actually looked up the sensor chart and came up with a resistor value to shift the reading.
There are many sources for good ECU tuning, VAP is popular here, Arden, Viezu etc. I of course use a customized version developed with Viezu to meet the needs of the modifications in my car. If warranty was not an issue go for a full ECU tune. If not, a real Piggyback system works but is of course limited.
If you want more power speak to VAP about adjusting your map for more power or what they advice for more power. Maybe ask if they can do you a higher octane map or race fuel map, but don't put a Race Chip on a tuned car, it will almost definitely trigger a CEL or even worse.
A while back I did some comparative testing, first and foremost DO NOT believe the claims from any of the piggyback makers in terms of unreasonable power gains. Among the many ECU remaps and piggybacks I dyno tested, only one piggyback unit (Racechip) resulted in about 410HP on the V6S.
The racechip unit tricks the bypass valve in order to achieve higher boost pressure. You cannot swap pulleys however and it will NOT leave any code or sign of it's presence.
Of course I would suggest an ECU remap with any pulley swap. If you want to preserve your warranty, the piggyback is your best bet.
The racechip unit tricks the bypass valve in order to achieve higher boost pressure. You cannot swap pulleys however and it will NOT leave any code or sign of it's presence.
Of course I would suggest an ECU remap with any pulley swap. If you want to preserve your warranty, the piggyback is your best bet.
I have a Question, i already have a racechip on my v6s if i buy a velocity ap pulley tune can i combine then to make more horsepower or doesnt that work together?
No.
Doesn’t work that way.
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xande007
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Matthew Barden
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