I have this annoying issue with starting my F-Type. I have to hold the Key FOB directly in the "nook" to the left and below the steering wheel. Once the car is started, I usually store the key in the driver's side door storage compartment but as I'm driving I eventually get the "key no longer in the vehicle" message (or something to that effect). I have replaced the battery even though I had already put in a new one recently but no luck. Also, I know the battery in the FOB must be OK because I can open and close the trunk and lock and unlock the car from 50 yards away. WTF?

 

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It sounds to me like the problem is in the keyless entry system. The buttons on the fob control the remote functions, but that is separate from the passive keyless system. There are antennas on each side and one at the back. There are also antennas inside.

Can you open open the rear hatch with the button on the underside, above the license plate? Can you unlock the doors with fob in pocket by pushing the little button on the door handle? If these don't work, that's a good indicator that the passive keyless system is malfunctioning. I had a failure for the passenger door only due to mice nibbling on the wiring behind the rocket panel, so went through all those tests. I'm pretty sure the owner's manual shows the antenna locations.

 

You must have some really cool 007 type mods to your car.

 

Here are the antenna locations for the convertible.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m5n0e5yn82...0vert.JPG?dl=0

 

Oops. Wasn't supposed to let that slip.

 

OK, here is what I know... The trunk opens by pushing the exterior button at the bottom of the trunk lid and the doors open when I push the button on the door handle. The next thing I did was to connect the iCarsoft scan tool and found a B10C8 code (Interior Center Antenna) which I thought would pinpoint the problem but when I looked up B10C8 in the manual it was very ambiguous with a disclaimer saying that it could be any antenna! For now, I will assume that it is the center antenna but before I do anything I'd like to clear up 2 things. Is this antenna referred to as "Low Frequency (LF) antenna - cross-car beam" and if so, is this located behind the climate controls on the center console?

 

I had the exact same problem. My problem started when I left the fob in my pocket and it went through the wash. I dried it out and put in a new battery. It worked perfectly except for exactly what you describe- I had to put the fob in the little slot left and below the steering wheel. I'd then throw it in the cup holder and it would lose connection.

To fix it, I opened up the fob and looked at it through a large electronics magnifying glass. On several of the fob's chips, I could see a tiny little bit of white residue between some of the pins. I used a sharp poster pin to gently scrape the corrosion away, making sure that each pin was isolated from each other entirely. I put the fob back together and haven't had an issue since. Even if you haven't put your fob through the wash, I'd take it apart and examine your little board closely to see if you have gunk or debris crossing over the pins of your chips, possibly shorting the pins together.

 

Well OK, thanks I can try that. I wouldn't mind getting lucky for once. I don't think it will help though because I'm getting a B10C8 code but you never know, it could be an improvement.

 

I would do a hard reset first, that might probably cure the problem.
If not, how about if you try this, use the other KF that came with F-Type. If does the same then it's not the KF Something's wrong, could be the immobilizer system or the transmitting system. I would look into the KVM or the antenna receiver control module (on most Jaguar & LR found the under over head consule), see it has mold or rust inside due to moisture.If defective, replaced

 

Hmmm. I never heard of a hard reset. Does it involve more than simply disconnecting the battery? I ask since I disconnect the battery each time I use my OBDII (ICarsoft) scan tool as it creates a battery drain and the FOB is still problematic afterward. I've read on this forum that this particular (battery drain) issue can be solved with a software upgrade (I don't want to do that) or a graceful exit from the scan tool menu but I haven't had any luck with that solution even after several tries.

 

Funny that about the iCarsoft.
I have an iCarsoft LR V2.0 which I use roughly every two weeks to check for codes and not once has it ever caused a battery drain problem.

 

It's true though. Shortly after going through NJ inspection where they do an OBDII check, my F-Type battery went dead. Not all at once though, it took several days and my display indicated a low battery warning during that time. I had no idea why the battery died so I just bought a new one which also died shortly after I connected my iCarsoft. After a search on this forum (wish I could credit the source but I forgot) I discovered that it was a known issue. I even updated my iCarsoft tool to no avail.

 

Our NJ Inspection kept the modules on this year, so I had to do the battery disconnect. The two previous inspections did not cause issues.
Maybe NJ 'updated' something? <<SIGH>>

I always look to assure that the warning triangle goes out....

 

Same inspectors every year, or one who doesn't know his job this time?

 

Replace the battery in they key fob to eliminate it rather than assuming it's good. You know what they say about assumptions, right?

Once you've eliminated the silly simple stuff, then keep going with the trickier stuff.

EDIT: I just re-read the post and noticed you said "I have replaced the battery," but I can't tell if you mean the car battery or the fob battery. If the latter....

 

And measure the voltage before you fit it - just to be on the safe side.

 

Different. They have a lot of turnover in personnel at the State centers.

 

You're right about checking the simple things first, I'm a true believer in that regard. I did in fact change my key FOB battery with the 2nd one in a 2 pack Duracell package that I had in the garage and when that didn't work I bought a new one which had the same result. Someone else suggested measuring the voltage but even a bad battery will measure the right voltage when it's not under load. Again, I really think it is not a battery issue since I can open the doors and trunk from a really far-off position so I think I'll have to dig deeper.

 

Had the same issue, replaced the fob battery and no change. Not sure what happened, took a 2hr drive to see my daughters and for whatever reason it stopped acting up. Not sure if was the driving (usually drive 9-10 miles every couple of days, battery might not have been fully charged) or because I had the drivers window fixed and the rug and door finally dried out.