So, I've just got my V8 R AWD for a little while now and it's already giving me loads of issues. My AC blows warm humid air when at low speed during a hot day(but will become cold when the vehicle speed is up). The Active exhaust is stuck on loud. The undertray is soaked in fluid. I just want some experience F type people here to take a look at the fluid leak and share some thought. I'll be bringing the car to the dealer(again) and see what they say.
P1 is the stain on my transmission(It would occasionally give a light clunk when shifting, let me know if that is normal on F types, my supra had the ZF8HP but less torque limit and it didn't do that)
P2 is when I look through the front shield and upon the passenger(RH) side, that connector is covered in grease.
P3 is that black rack covered in grease
P4 is the bolt that has oil coming out
P5 is just showing how much fluid is around that general area(basically all covered)
P6/P7 is about that rubber boot thing for the steering(if I am correct)
The undertray was soaked through and through, it does have a puncture on the tray itself probably due to scraping on my curb(The location of that puncture was withing a 5-inch radius of the major leak at that boot but seems like no visual damage and those looks like has been there for a while)

 

The car still have some CPO warranty left and my bet is the dealer will kick me off because of the puncture on the undertray... But anyway please share your thoughts, and feedback is appreciated.

 

I'm guessing you have an AWD.
My best best is you have a leak from one or more of the following places:
The gearbox drain plug
The gearbox fill plug
The front diff drain/fill plug
To test/check, leave the under-tray off and place some white paper (eg butcher's paper) under where you usually park.
After driving the car leave it parked overnight then inspect the paper the next day.
If there is any fluid on the paper check it for location (in relation to the car), colour, appearance, smell and taste (of course taste just a tiny bit!).
That should give you some leads as to exactly what type of fluid it is - engine oil, transmission fluid, diff fluid, coolant, AC condensation overflow (water), power steering fluid (although you probably have electronic power assisted steering anyway, this depends on model year).
Then report back and the gurus here may be able to help.
After all that, if it is a leaking plug somewhere then it should be an easy DIY fix to tighten that plug.

 

Thank you, my friend. mine is an AWD R. The dealer here hasn't replied to my phone call/email(very helpful from them). I 'll take the undertray off once again and place some paper towels when I get a chance. My main concern is that large buildup at the rubber boot and the power steering assembly itself as it isn't hydraulic and I don't know how to refill one of these.

 

Best bet, not best best!

 

Updates! I finally got a chance to go to the dealer. Following is the diagnosis from them: the residual oil came from the oil change. The bolt is seeping. Trans is fine. The front leak is possible from the oil cooler. They also pointed out that during the last service of the car, the previous Jag dealer had pulled the head off to replace valves. With that, the whole front end was taken apart and improperly put back onto the car(car is missing brackets for headlight, missing bolt for starter, coolant lines were not clamped down properly. The front end is missing multiple bolts. During the work, the exhaust was pulled and the rear brace did not get tighten. The vacuum hose was left disconnected(hence why the active exhaust doesn't work). If someone has a picture of the engine bay above the wheel well area please send me a picture, I want to see how much of a car I am missing.

 

That is unbelievably shoddy work!
I would be getting a quote from your current dealer to fix all those problems and then demand recompense in that amount from the previous dealer who performed the "work".
I guess that previous dealer is who you bought the car from?
If so it should be covered under Moss Magnuson and even if not a well worded letter from a solicitor should do the trick.
How long ago did you buy the car? Maybe you are still in the window to reject it and get a full refund, I know that is what I would do if I had the choice.

 

unfortunately, it was not the dealer I bought the car from. The car was certified back in 2018 and I got it from another dealer as a trade and the warranty should transfer to me. I had this car for about a month. I already notified the issue with the car to the selling dealer, and I'm also asking them for the contact info of the last owner. I have a diagnosis from the local dealer and their service advisor + mechanic will be backing me up if the problem doesn't get resolved. We took a look at the history of the car since the day it arrived at the east coast as a CPO(originally delivered to west coast). And the only reason that the whole front end of mine was taken apart can only be for the valve job. The mechanic didn't even notice this issue until he leaned on the car and try to see the leak. When forces are applied to the headlight area, the whole bumper/leadlight will move. I don't have an issue with engine out jobs but they can't just slab everything back in this manner.
p.s AC issue is not resolved and didn't get checked.

 

Something is not right here. If it’s an AWD, it’s a 2016 or later model. That means for certain, that the car was under the original warranty when the valves were replaced. I have never heard of warranted major engine work on an F-type that didn’t involve a complete replacement. Also, what kind of service did that car experience to necessitate a valve replacement this early?
Inquiring minds want to know.

 

 

I'm the 3rd owner. this work was done with the 2nd owner. The CEL also flashed for a few seconds when idling but that went away.

 

Sorry to deliver the bad news -your story is unlikely to have a happy ending. Start religiously documenting everything so you can lemon the car. The "valves worn into lifter" is bad news for your engine as it likely just one of the many lubrication-related issues. Issues like that happen due to lack of oil flow (i.e. oil starvation) and it is unlikely to be isolated to just lifters. Lifters wear was probably the nosiest problem that dealer decided to address without investigating it any further.

Oil leaks you are seeing now are just tip of the iceberg.

You need to understand the overall condition of your engine and quality of the past repair. You need to take the car to independent Jaguar mechanic and ask him to deep-dive so you understand the problem you are dealing with. Ask for compression and leak down tests. Ask for coolant pressure test. Ask to drain oil and cut filter open looking for metal. Ask them to listen with a stethoscope for piston slap.

Dealer will be motivated to BS you until your warranty runs out. All the issues you are asking about here are likely related to that major warranty repair. If you keep the car, you should budget for a new engine in the near future.

 

[QUOTE=SinF;2248596]Sorry to deliver the bad news -your story is unlikely to have a happy ending. Start religiously documenting everything so you can lemon the car.

Unless laws have changed, lemon law is not an option (OP is not the original owner); however, you can find a good consumer protection attorney to file a claim under Mag-Moss - I used Krohn and Moss when I was in Florida - they have firms throughout the country.

 

It does felt that way, the car is beautiful to look at(Thanks Ian) and messed up engineering wise(Thanks Jaguar?). I am still trying to get an invoice on the estimated repair and let that go through Jaguar corporate office for a claim. I'll keep this updated whenever I get something new.

 

[QUOTE=gg2684;2248600]Lemon isn't an option for mine, but I'll consult with an attorney with Mag-Moss for sure.

 

Looking for independent shop around Atlanta/Greenville area btw.

 

Curious that a Jag dealership will half-*** a repair like that. Can you bring this up with JLR corporate, perhaps? The attorney route is probably the one you should have on the ready; in fact, I'd consult them now.

 

I am doing it, but the corporate requires a repair estimate to start a claim. My local dealer is not quite good when it comes to phone calls so it's having some delays here. I got in touch with the last owner of the car. He didn't have this car in April and his ownership was no issue other than minor cosmetics. I don't know how the valve problem happened and who initiated the repair. I'll ask more questions and keep you guys entertained with this coronavirus car-buying season horror story.

 

Don't know which dealership you use. We used to live in Charleston, that dealership was ok-ish. I've heard that Hilton Head is good, but I've never been there. Charlotte is where we bought our last two F Paces from, and they have been the best for us. I also haven't had any warranty claims through them though.

 

The plot thickens. If the last owner had no problems, why would dealer go into such involved yet specific repair? I never heard of that specific mode of failure - worn lifter. All I ever read suggest that engines on F-type very occasionally oil starve and get totaled. At much higher age/mileage there is timing chain issues. Sometimes injectors go bad. Basically, a solid engine with a few known issues.

Also, why the job was botched to the point that it leaking oil? If they had heads out, did they machine them to level?

This is like getting leprosy in 2020. How the heck did it happen?