Yes, exactly...how can the battery measure as "good" when and if the alternator is faulty?

 

Washing the car is the final step in my dealer's servicing- regardless of what service they do - except that I REFUSE to have them wash the car for all the reasons others imply. The fewer times the paint is touched, the better the finish remains.

 

Just to get the record straight, They said that I was in a rush - but I never said that.

Now, either it's decided to play games with me, or it fixed itself. Three days ago, the Hazard Light stopped being on all the time (I'd been checking it several times a day). I haven't seen the Low Battery warning message since then, so ... it fixed itself?
Who's a good car?
Yes You Are!
Good Car! <Jag wags tail>

Or maybe it's setting me up...

 

When a cat wags it's tail, watch out!

 

Oh, mine pretty much wags it's tail every time we go out - it's a very happy cat!!

 

 

I thought maybe it started happening because of the cold, but I have a feeling it may be due to the state inspection that I had done recently which involves reading codes through the OBD port.
I'd rather not have to do the battery disconnect every year after getting an inspection... Is there any sort of fix that can be applied?

As an aside, the mirrors no longer fold in when the car is locked. I knew I would have to do the window reset, but this came as a surprise as I was told elsewhere that the only way to prevent the mirrors from folding in was to have it permanently disabled by a service tech.

 

depends on the year and model for how a mirror fold is enabled. But the most common issue with mirrors that all of a sudden wont fold is that one of them is unlocked. How do they get unlocked you ask? EASY, car wash is 1 way, or most often someone bumps the mirror walking by the car and unlocks it. How do you fix? Reset the lock position by either pressing the fold button about the mirror switch, or if you don't have that press and hold both L/R mirror buttons down simultaneously to fold back and they lock then do it again to open and VOILA theyre reset

 

I have been having the same issue for over a year. I have brought it to the dealer several times and they always say it is a bad battery. I am on my 3rd battery in about 1.5 years. The first year of owning my car everything was fine, this issue did not start until March of 2018. The car was sitting and not driven for about 5 weeks and upon starting it up I saw the low battery warning message then I got the battery replaced only for the message to reaper within a few months and going through the process of a new battery again. I got the battery replaced a third time a few weeks ago and have not seen the message yet. I am worried that this will just happen again. Is there something that can be done about this?

 

And it will continue to happen until you charge the battery fully, and I mean fully. A new battery is almost never fully charged. The pattern of use that your message suggests indicates that your batteries have never been fully charged - short and infrequent use results in constantly decreasing battery charge.
Solution: charge the battery fully and buy a battery maintainer (CTEK being the favoured brand by many); install it and use it when the car is not in daily service.
Result: an end to battery issues.

 

It's not ideal but most exotics cars require a battery tender. I put my entire tender, including the cord with just the plug sticking out, under the trunk floor right next to the battery. Then I pull an extension cord down from my garage ceiling and run it into the trunk and plug it in with the trunk fully up while charging, so I don't forget and try to drive off with it plugged in. I plug it in about every two weeks, no more battery issues.

Spring winding ceiling or wall mount extension cord:
Battery Tender for AGM batteries (fits underneath trucnk floor np):

I don't think alternators are designed for 12.8V AGM batteries. So the battery falls into in a partly depleted state and dies relatively quickly unless you either take very long drives all the time, or supplement the charge every so often to get a finishing charge into them. The tender above is a four stage charger for AGM.

 

I keep my Harley on a tender that's rated at 750mAmps, 12V. Would that work on the F-Type as well?

 

750mA is fine. Check the manual to see if its designed to handle AGM batteries.

 

Thank you for the suggestion, that is what I am going to have to do. The F-pace is not my daily driver, I only drive the car about once a week on average and less than that during the winter. The battery maintainer is what I will have to get.

 

I've had my car sense April this year and I always leave it unlocked with the fob in the passengers seat in the garage. No lights are on in the cabin when I walk by it. Have never had a problem.

 

Firstly, see even old-fashioned Harleys have to be kept on a charger- and yet people swear battery charging is unique to Jag. Tesla guys dont complain.

No- there are a few reasons its not the best idea to use the 750milliamp i.e not even a goddamn full amp of power.
What does it tell you about the make. its as lowbudget as it gets. Mine is 15amps. or 20x more power.
It also means it does not have any sophisticated algorithm and will reduce your battery life.
At that rate it will take 2 days to charge our batteries- so if you only charge it for a day you will constantly be in deficit and reduce battery lifespan.

 

Agreed, 750 mA is too feeble.
Like you my battery tender is 15 amp.
I use it around once a fortnight on the F-Type and it goes through all 7 stages to "fully charged - maintain" in less than 30 minutes.

 

Ozzy, I have discovered something huge yesterday.
Wondering if I am the last to discover it.
A battery desulphator.
Basically uses waves to remove tarnish in the way a electrolysis removes rust.
Its ridiculously simple and cost $20. Runs off the battery being desulphated.
Had a ruined battery, that would not hold much charge, brought it back.

 

Funny you should mention that, the very first stage of my battery tender is "desulfation".
Even more funny is that you have called it a "desulphator" and my tender calls it "desulfation", when sulphur is the English spelling and sulfur is the US spelling, so completely back to front!

 

I find this all very strange. I used the OEM AGM for a couple of years and more recently a lithium for a couple years (the AGM is still in service in my ‘76 Land Cruiser). I’ve never used a trickle charger on the f-type, have had it sit for weeks at time and have never had any problems with starting the car with exception of the early OBD accesses before I was aware of that issue. I am wondering whether the other discharge issues are more prevalent among the V8 than the V6. If so, it could be possible that the V8 doesn’t doesn’t average sufficient revs to keep the battery properly charged. In top gear, the engine speed on my V6 (MT) is 50% higher than on the V8.