My 2017 V6 6MT clutch is starting to slip at moderate torque slips, with 17k miles. ( I think this car has the 1st gen flywheel and the 2nd gen clutch)
I am the second owner and have only put 500 miles on the clock.
I am thinking of doing one of the following:

1. Call a Jaguar dealer (150+ miles away) and try to get it fixed with the latest 2nd gen flywheel and 4th gen clutch (pure OEM Jag)
2. Get a lightweight flywheel and stage 2 clutch, then have a local repair shop do the work or just do it myself. (spiced up aftermarket)

Thoughts?
And do any of you have access to the "Manual Transmission" section of the Repair Manual (section 308-03)
I can only seem to find the Automatic Transmission (section 307-01)

Thanks in advance.

 

#1. If you can get this done under warranty, why wouldn't you? At the very least try.

#2. The issue with this approach is that you will increase rotatum (rotational equivalent of jolt) on insufficiently dampened driveline. You will also need to retrofit flex disk (which will result in the need to build custom driveshaft) or retrofit hardened differential.

The issue with MT F-type is that JLR took an automatic transmission car and put manual gearbox into it. You can't do that and expect it to last. Automatic transmission does not stress the drivertain nearly as much as MT when roughly driven.

 

SinF,
Thanks for this insight.
The OEM flywheel is a dual mass unit with rubber damper which will take some of the "jolt" off from clutch engagement and prevent shock to a stiff drive shaft. (My manual Volvo's had drive shafts that were damped with rubber inserts.)
This need for damping could also be due to the straight-through nature of the manual gearbox over a hydraulically engaged auto, which would impart low engine speed judder onto the driveline.
I am just disappointed with the high rotational inertia of the OEM system which leads to glacial response.
I suppose option #1 is the best path forward at this point.
Herminator

 

Yes. This is why it is so heavy. If you replace it with a lightweight flywheel, you won't have modicum of damping.

Here is how OEM second gen flywheel and 2nd get clutch looked when they were taken out from my car:

 

Actually, what you are experiencing are two problems that can be fixed with existing hardware.

Problem 1 - drive by wire accelerator is not mapped linearly to throttle. This bugs me to no end as it makes rev-matching and bleeping throttle on downshifts harder than it ought to be. This problem is less pronounced in the track mode, so this is my 'solution'. I heard that tuners had a fix for this, but personally have not done any tuning. I expect my F-type to be a collectable car some day, so I am keeping everything stock.

Problem 2 - shift throw is too long. Some people modified with a short shifter with reportedly great results.

I recommend you talk with @Unhingd as he tackled all these projects and had aftermarket clutch developed.

 

Thanks, SinF..
I don't seem to suffer from Problem 1. I often blip the throttle to help with rev matching on trail braking / down shifts.
I am just frustrated with the "blip response" of the engine, and the RPM fall time after a high RPM upshift.
I will try "Track" mode and see how that goes.

I don't suffer from Problem 2, as I am 6'3" and find the shifter pretty good ergonomically.
I did start a conversation with Unhingd on the flywheel / clutch from SPEC.. so am up to speed on that option #2.

p.s. I also get the "original factor" so I would hate to permanently alter my F-type... but a clutch/flywheel seems to be a maintenance item, so not the end of the world if I try something aftermarket.