F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 08:02 PM
  #61  
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Really like that wheel style - car looks awesome. As soon as I’m on the mend, I’m looking forward to a couple good project weekends. Would love to be the first to get the tow hook relocated and I have numerous other things that need wrapped up. Well done sir!
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 07:32 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by madmax1911
Tried to post these in the official picture thread but Gabe up after four try’s 😾


Loving that new grile! You did a great job on it. Looks like a Big Ol' Catfish now with his mouth opened I am thinking I am going to have to do that to mine.....Will have to decide if I want the surround to match like yours(white on mine) or go black? I am torn...They both look good...

DC


 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 07:36 AM
  #63  
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Cool!

Nice to see the end result.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 09:19 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Therock88
Loving that new grile! You did a great job on it. Looks like a Big Ol' Catfish now with his mouth opened I am thinking I am going to have to do that to mine.....Will have to decide if I want the surround to match like yours(white on mine) or go black? I am torn...They both look good...

DC
Do it in white, with your wrapping skills it would be easy for you to wrap it black if the white wasn’t doing it for you.

Originally Posted by Cambo
Cool!

Nice to see the end result.
Cambo sir, you get a bunch of credit for this, your discovery of the bumper beam part number was critical.
Thank you.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 09:24 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by gg2684
Really like that wheel style - car looks awesome. As soon as I’m on the mend, I’m looking forward to a couple good project weekends. Would love to be the first to get the tow hook relocated and I have numerous other things that need wrapped up. Well done sir!
Looking forward to seeing what you can do with the relocation process.
Get healed and get after it, also without pics it never happened, right
Thanks for the compliments
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 10:07 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by gg2684
okay, I see that now. in some of the photos the bar blends with the surroundings which are also black but kind of looked similar to the car color and I guess the close up photos with glossy paint were the original. I guess I thought you ordered the new one and had it painted. I just talked to my welder - he seems to think its an easy fix - your photos and measurements will make it significantly easier and - so I am eternally grateful. I will try to document the moving of the receiver so others can undertake it - Teamwork makes the Dream work right? Now I'm free to paint my surround without carving it up first (at least I think so...) - BTW what did you use to adhere the wires to the grill to hide it? I was assuming something that sets quickly and is black?
If you take this on, here a thought for you. Since you'll have to make a plat to fill in to hole when you relocate the block. How about just making a new block that has both hole locations in it (if there's room) that is compatible with both grills? Then you'll have a bumper beam that can be used with both the P7 grill and the stock grill if you or any one else should ever decide to but it back? And probably easier and stronger to weld back in.
Just a thought. Looking forward to your project.

 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 10:10 AM
  #67  
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Beautiful car! You guys speak a different language than I do I feel like sometimes
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 10:31 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by WayneB
If you take this on, here a thought for you. Since you'll have to make a plat to fill in to hole when you relocate the block. How about just making a new block that has both hole locations in it (if there's room) that is compatible with both grills? Then you'll have a bumper beam that can be used with both the P7 grill and the stock grill if you or any one else should ever decide to but it back? And probably easier and stronger to weld back in.
Just a thought. Looking forward to your project.
I don’t think there is room for both


 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 10:59 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by madmax1911
I don’t think there is room for both


From the photos it looks like the pilot holes over lap but it could be the angle of the shots too. Need to draw it out on paper and see. The pilot holes could be very close together with no problem as long as the treads have plenty of meat. I'm sure the pilot whole does provide support for the tow hook but I think it wouldn't lose much if any if the sides of the pilot holes where close together as long as the threads have plenty of meat. You're not going to jack the car up by the tow hook only tow it forward.

 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 11:41 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by WayneB
From the photos it looks like the pilot holes over lap but it could be the angle of the shots too. Need to draw it out on paper and see. The pilot holes could be very close together with no problem as long as the treads have plenty of meat. I'm sure the pilot whole does provide support for the tow hook but I think it wouldn't lose much if any if the sides of the pilot holes where close together as long as the threads have plenty of meat. You're not going to jack the car up by the tow hook only tow it forward.
Also, the only way to source another receiver would be to buy another bumper bar which was the reason I was planning to relocate.....
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 01:04 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by gg2684
Also, the only way to source another receiver would be to buy another bumper bar which was the reason I was planning to relocate.....
I wasn't suggesting you buy another bumper bar for the block. I was suggesting having a machinist make a new tow "block or reciever" with 2 threaded holes in it out of a single piece of steel to replace the one you cut out. Then you don't need a filler block to fill in the hole when you remove the original block. That is if there is room for 2 holes in a single block?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 02:27 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by WayneB
I wasn't suggesting you buy another bumper bar for the block. I was suggesting having a machinist make a new tow "block or reciever" with 2 threaded holes in it out of a single piece of steel to replace the one you cut out. Then you don't need a filler block to fill in the hole when you remove the original block. That is if there is room for 2 holes in a single block?
That’s an interesting idea, now that I understand what you are contemplating. It could certainly be done, have no idea what it would cost though. If you can find a shop with a CNC willing to prototype the two hole version you might be able to recover some costs by selling it to others on here.
BTW, the bar and receiver are aluminum, easier to machine but harder to weld.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 03:58 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by madmax1911
That’s an interesting idea, now that I understand what you are contemplating. It could certainly be done, have no idea what it would cost though. If you can find a shop with a CNC willing to prototype the two hole version you might be able to recover some costs by selling it to others on here.
BTW, the bar and receiver are aluminum, easier to machine but harder to weld.
Aluminum is even easier. You don't need CNC unless you going to make thousands of them which is WAY more than you need. A Bridgeport type mill is all you need. Even a band saw, belt sander and drill press would do it. You don't need.0001" accuracy. You really don't need .01" even. Pick the right Al alloy bar stock cut to length drill and tap 2 holes with pilot counter bores and not hard to weld.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 04:15 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by WayneB
Aluminum is even easier. You don't need CNC unless you going to make thousands of them which is WAY more than you need. A Bridgeport type mill is all you need. Even a band saw, belt sander and drill press would do it. You don't need.0001" accuracy. You really don't need .01" even. Pick the right Al alloy bar stock cut to length drill and tap 2 holes with pilot counter bores and not hard to weld.
I would agree that a cheaper solution would be awesome, and making the bar with a mount isn’t like sending someone to the moon, but my point was that I think the existing mount can be moved for like $50 or less and would provide an elegant solution. It would also not require sourcing and fabricate new bars and block etc. For those forum members that have access to all that equipment and raw materials etc - good on you, but if I can get it done in a couple hours (including drive time), I think I’ll start there.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 08:32 AM
  #75  
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What is the part number on that cross beam again?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 10:08 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by unhingd
what is the part number on that cross beam again?
T2R18829, beam-bumper
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 10:45 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by madmax1911
T2R18829, beam-bumper
You may not want to post on the forum where you bought yours, if not could you send me a PM ?
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.

Thanks,
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 11:27 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by WayneB
You may not want to post on the forum where you bought yours, if not could you send me a PM ?
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.

Thanks,
PM sent
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 12:42 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by WayneB
You may not want to post on the forum where you bought yours, if not could you send me a PM ?
There is no way I can get that block relocated on the bumper beam for around $50.00. Around here they won't even look at it for that, maybe X10 for somebody that you can trust.

Thanks,
I will concede that I might be missing something when I’m looking at all the detailed photos, and I can’t speak for welding costs globally, but cutting the welds in the front and back and then cutting out the remaining bumper bar hole to accommodate moving it down and re-welding does it seem like a $500+ job.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gg2684
I will concede that I might be missing something when I’m looking at all the detailed photos, and I can’t speak for welding costs globally, but cutting the welds in the front and back and then cutting out the remaining bumper bar hole to accommodate moving it down and re-welding does it seem like a $500+ job.
I don't know about your area but around here (SF Bay Area) Things like that are very expensive. So personally I will probably just try to get a P7 bumper beam and switch them and keep my original in case I need to switch back or ever sell the car. Rather than take the risk of a shop screwing up the bumper beam and losing the time and having to buy one any way. That's going to take some decent fab skills and who do you trust your car to?
 
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