Need New Brakes
I have a 2017 S model and was at the dealership recently. They said my back brakes needed replacing and quoted me about $1400 cdn. (they are performance brakes )
I know my pads are worn, but my question is do the rotors always need replacing or can they be left alone as long as they are a certain thickness?
If yes, does anyone know the minimum required ? (this is obviously the greatest portion of the cost)
And there is a sensor to detect pad wear ( which hasn't gone off yet), does that need replacing also, or can I use the existing?
And last question, is it a good idea to have the dealership do it or my buddy who is a mechanic? (I have the Jaguar extended warranty but it doesn't touch the brakes)
I will be going in for my annual $600 oil change and they will bring this to my attention again,
Thanks to all for your input!
I know my pads are worn, but my question is do the rotors always need replacing or can they be left alone as long as they are a certain thickness?
If yes, does anyone know the minimum required ? (this is obviously the greatest portion of the cost)
And there is a sensor to detect pad wear ( which hasn't gone off yet), does that need replacing also, or can I use the existing?
And last question, is it a good idea to have the dealership do it or my buddy who is a mechanic? (I have the Jaguar extended warranty but it doesn't touch the brakes)
I will be going in for my annual $600 oil change and they will bring this to my attention again,
Thanks to all for your input!
Last edited by Diorwing; Sep 1, 2022 at 08:56 PM.
Firstly you need to find out exactly which rear brakes you have as (excluding the CCM brakes) they come in two sizes on a 2017 F-Type S.
The stock rears are (diameter) 326 mm "high performance" and the optional upgraded rears are 376 mm "super performance". Different rotors and different pads.
Next you need to determine if the rotors really need replacing or not. JLR dealerships almost always say that once the pads need replacing the rotors need replacing as well but this is BS, on all modern Jags the rotors can and do last for at least two sets of pads before they need replacing. Even then the specified "worn" rotor thickness is a whopping 2 mm less than new thickness, extremely conservative and I for one reckon over the top.
The rotor thickness specs are: 326 mm = 20 mm new 18 mm worn, 376 mm = 26 mm new 24 mm worn.
Easy enough to use a Vernier caliper to measure the thickness of your rear rotors, but remember to measure the middle of the swept area and not the lip/edge.
Also you can tell if they really need replacing by the size of the outer lip, but again remember that lip will be different on the outside face as compared to the inside face with in most cases the inside lip being more/bigger than the outside.
Absolutely no need to have a dealership do either pads or rotors or both, it's quite straightforward and easy for any half competent mechanic to do and will cost you a lot less.
Last but not least an oil change should not cost anywhere near $600 that is a rip off, it's a very easy DIY or if warranty is a concern get your mechanic to do it at a fraction of that cost.
The stock rears are (diameter) 326 mm "high performance" and the optional upgraded rears are 376 mm "super performance". Different rotors and different pads.
Next you need to determine if the rotors really need replacing or not. JLR dealerships almost always say that once the pads need replacing the rotors need replacing as well but this is BS, on all modern Jags the rotors can and do last for at least two sets of pads before they need replacing. Even then the specified "worn" rotor thickness is a whopping 2 mm less than new thickness, extremely conservative and I for one reckon over the top.
The rotor thickness specs are: 326 mm = 20 mm new 18 mm worn, 376 mm = 26 mm new 24 mm worn.
Easy enough to use a Vernier caliper to measure the thickness of your rear rotors, but remember to measure the middle of the swept area and not the lip/edge.
Also you can tell if they really need replacing by the size of the outer lip, but again remember that lip will be different on the outside face as compared to the inside face with in most cases the inside lip being more/bigger than the outside.
Absolutely no need to have a dealership do either pads or rotors or both, it's quite straightforward and easy for any half competent mechanic to do and will cost you a lot less.
Last but not least an oil change should not cost anywhere near $600 that is a rip off, it's a very easy DIY or if warranty is a concern get your mechanic to do it at a fraction of that cost.
Sadly, a lot of owners of high end cars seem to think that everything on them is somehow extra "special." Brakes are brakes. If you have any mechanical aptitude you can do them yourself and save a lot of money.
Rather than do it NOW, why not just save your pennies/pence for the future job?
Why not wait until the brake wear sensors tip you off. (They need to be replaced anyway)
MANY brands available on Rock Auto.
Example,
RAYBESTOS EWS181
Why not wait until the brake wear sensors tip you off. (They need to be replaced anyway)
MANY brands available on Rock Auto.
Example,
RAYBESTOS EWS181
I think I paid around $800 for all new rotors (brembo blanks from Amazon) and pads (Porterfield pads) on my R (parts only) so if dealership is wanting $1k (usd) for just the rears, definitely seek out ur mechanic buddy to help if you are unable to do it yourself.
The brakes are just brakes like any other car. Very simple to swap out. I am not a mechanic and swapped pads, rotors, sensors out in a few hours taking my time. Don't let a dealer do this. This is the time you can easily "upgrade" pads and rotors if you prefer and if you do it yourself, you can do it for still about half what the dealer wanted to charge you for a basic job. I think my upgraded rotors and pads ran me about $600 to do myself.
Firstly you need to find out exactly which rear brakes you have as (excluding the CCM brakes) they come in two sizes on a 2017 F-Type S.
The stock rears are (diameter) 326 mm "high performance" and the optional upgraded rears are 376 mm "super performance". Different rotors and different pads.
Next you need to determine if the rotors really need replacing or not. JLR dealerships almost always say that once the pads need replacing the rotors need replacing as well but this is BS, on all modern Jags the rotors can and do last for at least two sets of pads before they need replacing. Even then the specified "worn" rotor thickness is a whopping 2 mm less than new thickness, extremely conservative and I for one reckon over the top.
The rotor thickness specs are: 326 mm = 20 mm new 18 mm worn, 376 mm = 26 mm new 24 mm worn.
Easy enough to use a Vernier caliper to measure the thickness of your rear rotors, but remember to measure the middle of the swept area and not the lip/edge.
Also you can tell if they really need replacing by the size of the outer lip, but again remember that lip will be different on the outside face as compared to the inside face with in most cases the inside lip being more/bigger than the outside.
Absolutely no need to have a dealership do either pads or rotors or both, it's quite straightforward and easy for any half competent mechanic to do and will cost you a lot less.
Last but not least an oil change should not cost anywhere near $600 that is a rip off, it's a very easy DIY or if warranty is a concern get your mechanic to do it at a fraction of that cost.
The stock rears are (diameter) 326 mm "high performance" and the optional upgraded rears are 376 mm "super performance". Different rotors and different pads.
Next you need to determine if the rotors really need replacing or not. JLR dealerships almost always say that once the pads need replacing the rotors need replacing as well but this is BS, on all modern Jags the rotors can and do last for at least two sets of pads before they need replacing. Even then the specified "worn" rotor thickness is a whopping 2 mm less than new thickness, extremely conservative and I for one reckon over the top.
The rotor thickness specs are: 326 mm = 20 mm new 18 mm worn, 376 mm = 26 mm new 24 mm worn.
Easy enough to use a Vernier caliper to measure the thickness of your rear rotors, but remember to measure the middle of the swept area and not the lip/edge.
Also you can tell if they really need replacing by the size of the outer lip, but again remember that lip will be different on the outside face as compared to the inside face with in most cases the inside lip being more/bigger than the outside.
Absolutely no need to have a dealership do either pads or rotors or both, it's quite straightforward and easy for any half competent mechanic to do and will cost you a lot less.
Last but not least an oil change should not cost anywhere near $600 that is a rip off, it's a very easy DIY or if warranty is a concern get your mechanic to do it at a fraction of that cost.
I know I have the upgraded brakes, but they aren’t ceramic.
If I decide to have my buddy install them, do you recommend I go with OEM parts or aftermarket? Will I need a new sensor or can it be reused?
thanks again for your input, always smart to go to the dealer with a little extra knowledge as ammo
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I used after-market drilled and slotted rotors that I bought some eight years ago for my XFR (same brakes) then swapped over to the F-Type.
Hart brand on Fleabay, quite cheap at the time, I don't think the same ones are still available. Pretty much the same rotors are sold by R1 Concepts and they have a good reputation.
Note that the 380 mm front and 376 mm rear rotors are identical across the full range of modern Jags such as XF, XJ and XK so no need to spring for "F-Type" rotors the XF ones for example will fit perfectly and may be cheaper. Note the rear brake pads are NOT the same across the Jag range (fronts yes) with the F-Type needing specific pads.
I used Porterfield R4-S pads, waaaay less dust than the OEM pads and less "graunch" noise when coming to a stop as well, and a much more progressive pedal feel with no "on/off" jerky feel in stop/go traffic like the OEM pads. For street use you need the R4-S (S stands for street) and not the R4 which are more of a track pad.
Both the rotors and pads are still going strong and in great condition after six years with very little wear albeit with only some 46,000 km of fairly gentle use.
Hart brand on Fleabay, quite cheap at the time, I don't think the same ones are still available. Pretty much the same rotors are sold by R1 Concepts and they have a good reputation.
Note that the 380 mm front and 376 mm rear rotors are identical across the full range of modern Jags such as XF, XJ and XK so no need to spring for "F-Type" rotors the XF ones for example will fit perfectly and may be cheaper. Note the rear brake pads are NOT the same across the Jag range (fronts yes) with the F-Type needing specific pads.
I used Porterfield R4-S pads, waaaay less dust than the OEM pads and less "graunch" noise when coming to a stop as well, and a much more progressive pedal feel with no "on/off" jerky feel in stop/go traffic like the OEM pads. For street use you need the R4-S (S stands for street) and not the R4 which are more of a track pad.
Both the rotors and pads are still going strong and in great condition after six years with very little wear albeit with only some 46,000 km of fairly gentle use.
For others reading: If you run the brake pads until the wear sensors start firing (or close to it) they are ruined in the process. You should assume you are always replacing them if you are swapping out old pads for new. Just order them every time.
Oh, for the Good Old Days when a metal squealer was all you needed to indicate worn pads! ...piece of
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