Recently noticed the car is burning oil at an alarming rate, over the course of ~2 months ~2000 miles it burned 2 full quarts. Last top off was done today, oil mark was at half way between Max and Min, it required a full quart to bring back to Max.

IIRC Max to Min should represent exactly one quart, so not sure what's going on here.

Car is running great as usual and there's no smoke from the exhaust, engine bay and drive way are dry.

Any suggestion on where to start diagnosing?

2015 R with VAP goodies, 25xxx miles.

And yes, all measurement was done on level ground both cold and warm, and the oil used is oem.

 

Sounds like my old XJ6 (1985)
Had about 30K miles and used a quart / 1,000 miles.
Did not smoke, so I guess they just burn oil efficiently!
Are you using more fuel?
Not sure whether it applies here but (on boat diesels) failed injectors can lead to fuel mixing with oil - might "raise" oil level but also might cause the oil to burn off.
Good luck sortting it out.

 

Could have a leak being caught by underpanel or you are burning oil but not visible compared to when a shitbox Honda burns oil. I would check the exhaust tips for any residue. If there is, wipe down and recheck. The tune and higher boost may help burn a little extra oil. Also could have PCV partial blockage helping burn oil. I'll leave Consumption test instruction here if you get to that point.

COMPONENT TEST - OIL CONSUMPTION TEST

GENERAL REMARKS

The amount of oil an engine uses will vary with the way the vehicle is driven in addition to normal engine-to-engine variation. This is especially true during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) when a new engine is being broken in or until certain internal components become conditioned. Vehicles used in heavy-duty operation may use more oil. The following are examples of heavy-duty operation:

• Trailer towing applications
• Severe loading applications
• Sustained high speed operation

Engines need oil to lubricate the following internal components:

• Cylinder block cylinder walls
• Pistons and piston rings
• Intake and exhaust valve stems
• Intake and exhaust valve guides
• All internal engine components

When the pistons move downward, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. As the vehicle is operated, some oil is also drawn into the combustion chambers past the intake and exhaust valve stem seals and burned.

The following are examples of conditions that can affect oil consumption rates:

• Engine size
• Operator driving habits
• Ambient temperatures
• Quality and viscosity of oil
• Engine is being run in an overfilled condition (check the oil level at least five minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. The oil level should not be above the top of the cross-hatched area and the letter "F" in FULL).

Operation under varying conditions can frequently be misleading. A vehicle that has been run for several thousand miles on short trips or in below-freezing ambient temperatures may have consumed a "normal" amount of oil. However, when checking the engine oil level, it may measure up to the full mark on the oil level indicator due to dilution (condensation and fuel) in the engine crankcase. The vehicle then might be driven at high speeds on the highway where the condensation and fuel boil off. The next time the engine oil is checked it may appear that a liter of oil was used in about 160 km (100 miles). Oil consumption rate is about one liter per 2,400 km (1,500 miles).

Make sure the selected engine oil meets Jaguar specification and the recommended API Performance category "SG" and SAE viscosity grade as shown in the vehicle Owner's Guide. It is also important that the engine oil is changed at the intervals specified for the typical operating conditions.

TEST PROCEDURE

The following diagnostic procedure is used to determine the source of excessive oil consumption.
NOTE:Oil use is normally greater during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) of service. As mileage increases, oil use decreases. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.

1. Define excessive consumption, such as the number of miles driven per liter of oil used. Also determine customers driving habits, such as sustained high speed operation, towing, extended idle and other considerations.

1. Verify that the engine has no external oil leaks as described under Engine Oil Leaks in this section.

1. Carry out an oil consumption test:
   1.  
      • Run the engine to normal operating temperature. Switch engine OFF and allow oil to drain back for at least five minutes .
      • With vehicle parked on level surface, check the engine oil level.
      • If required, add engine oil to set level exactly to the FULL mark.
      • Record the vehicle mileage.
      • Instruct the customer to return for a level check after driving the vehicle as usual for 1,610 km (1000 miles).
      • Check the oil level under the same conditions and at the same location as the initial check.

NOTE:If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable go to Step 4.

1. Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.

1. Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder head and cylinder block.

1. If the condition still exists after carrying out the above tests go to step 9.

1. Carry out a cylinder compression test. Refer to the Cylinder Compression Test procedure in this section. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.

1. Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new valve stem seals after verifying valve guide clearance.

1. Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of the spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption.

 

MPG is consistent, I started monitoring MPG few months ago and it's consistently ~16gal for ~180miles.
No light or stored code, car runs and feels issue free, so don't think it's bad injectors.

Thanks for posting the procedures, doesn't look like something I can accomplish at home, I will leave it to the pros if checking underneath the car reveals no leak.
What does oil residue look like on the exhaust, oily? I just wiped them down and it is pretty dry and black soot.

 

Just double checked this thread and half way is 1 quart, so there is that, the oil level gauge is at least working correctly.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...eading-231500/

 

Changed my oil today with liqui moly oil change kit from fcpeuro. Bone dry underneath the car so the oil were indeed burnt. Also used engine flush this time and replaced the drain plug anyways. Gonna watch closely what happens in the next few thousand miles.

Mity vac ordered on the way so I can do my own change next time and also take advantage of the fcpeuro life time replacement.

 

Is your gas consumption typical of an R with your tune?
11 mpg seems very low.
Published average for the standard R is 18 mpg and in my experience you should do even better, especially with RWD (vs AWD).
Perhaps the fuel consumption and oil burn are related.

 

Yeah MPG has been consistent and normal for the driving I do, it has always been ~16gals for ~180miles. it will never get closer to the pusblished MPG living in NYC, my long term average speed is less than 20mph

 

Sorry to hear about the oil consumption issue. I don't know that I would wait to get it diagnosed though. I think you risk further damage and expense if you do. One thing that comes to mind are clogged catalytic converters.

 

I'm definitely keeping an close eye on it, from last top off and the oil change, a few hundred miles, it wasn't showing any usage, I will give it another thousand miles with fresh oil and see how things are. Also gonna read oil level with a odbII tool for more precise reading. If things keep going south I will definitely have the procedure performed.

Cat is relatively new, 200 cell cats from VAP installed earlier this year, do they clog up that quick? What'd be done to check if they are indeed clogged?

and how much mechanical hours am I looking at to perform these procedures posted by rummy636?

1. Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.

1. Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder head and cylinder block.

1. If the condition still exists after carrying out the above tests go to step 9.

1. Carry out a cylinder compression test. Refer to the Cylinder Compression Test procedure in this section. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.

1. Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new valve stem seals after verifying valve guide clearance.

1. Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of the spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption.

 

Unfortunately, I have no specific information on how quickly F-Type catalytic converters may clog. The cats are one place oil can end up though.

Another is the coolant, again this is not specific to an F-Type. Have you checked the coolant level?

Also if the procedure to check oil consumption yields no results they have dyes that can be added to the oil to help check for leaks. You then search for the leak with an ultraviolet light.

 

Hasn't needed to top off coolant, water temp stays steady, been ~350 miles since oil change, no consumption yet, and I purposely drove harder than usual whenever possible to see if hard driving accelerates the consumption.

Can't feel anything wrong with the motor, pulls hard through out the whole rev range without hiccups.

The dye seems like an interesting idea, also looks like something that can be done DIY easily, will look into it.

 

Do you know for a fact that it was ever filled to the full mark?
Do you have direct knowledge that it was filled or were you just takingthe dealer's word for it?

 

Yes I always tell the mech how much to fill and confirm via the dash afterward. Most places can't be bothered to fill, warm, wait 5 minutes, and check level again, so I bought a mityvac and necessary tools to do my own oil changes now, I actually did a double oil change this time, one at the shop for lift access and change the drain plug, another one at home myself, since I ordered the oil from FCP euro and wanted to try their lifetime warranty.

 

How many miles has the car/engine done?

 

Nice resurrection of an old thread - @Ray Ray Can you give us the final update after 4 years!

 

check your PCV if its clogged while running the car it will be very hard to take off oil fill cap

 

Wanted to share a scenario I ran in to after doing the Velocity AP upper and lower pulley upgrades.



Before I had the upgraded tensioner pulley, I ended up breaking a belt due to slippage. When that belt let go, it actually scuffed one of my breather hoses coming off the bottom of the motor. At the time, I couldn’t figure out why I was burning oil, I never saw oil on the ground, but on my last oil change I was down about 3 quarts.



Fast forward, I recently swapped out my lower crank pulley after the earlier recall, defective pulley issue. While I was in there, I finally discovered the culprit, the belt had shaved into that breather hose, which was where the missing oil had been going all along.



Needless to say, I was very relieved, and happy to finally track it down. Just thought I’d put this out there in case anyone else has unexplained oil loss after a pulley, belt failure, it might be worth checking those hoses.



I also recently did a YouTube video covering this issue and the fix, here’s the link: