Oil Change
Hey guys this has potentially been mentioned before but I just did a search and couldn't find it. What are people's options for an oil change? Do most go to their jag dealership, or is something like a jiffy lube just as good?
Jag requires a special oil, that I seriously doubt Jiffy Lube would have. Though my dealer didn't actually use the required oil for my first two oil changes (according to my invoice.)
There are tons of threads relating to this - try searching for 'oil change'.
There are tons of threads relating to this - try searching for 'oil change'.
Buy 5 liters of the right oil from the dealer, buy an OEM filter off eBay, and do it yourself with a vacuum extractor (about $60 for a good one) from the oil filler hole in the valve cover (there is an extraction tube built right into the engine). The oil filter is also right on top of the engine. If you insist on removing the last ounce of old oil, you can do it the old-school way from the bottom of the oil pan. The oil change franchises will not have the right oil or the filter.
Despite having a hoist and an oil extractor, I just take it to the dealer.....it's only once a year for me. No way I'd ever take my $100,000 + dollar Jag to a Jiffy/Speedy/etc. lube place.
2 cents,
Dave
2 cents,
Dave
Okay, and is it better to do it before winter storage or after? I only have 7k miles on it but i've driven it hard so maybe I'm just being over prepared.
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Don't ever do this! Why would anyone do this to any car, less luxury roadster like F-type?!
F-type requires specific Synthetic oil. It doesn't have an oil dip stick and requires a tool to read oil level. Take it to a dealer or at least licensed mechanic for maintenance or you will end up wrecking engine and JLR for-cause rejecting warranty.
F-type requires specific Synthetic oil. It doesn't have an oil dip stick and requires a tool to read oil level. Take it to a dealer or at least licensed mechanic for maintenance or you will end up wrecking engine and JLR for-cause rejecting warranty.
Before is better. However unlikely, old oil is more likely to absorb moisture and form sediment/sludge.
This is the official take on Jaguar Oil change intervals
Ours is one year old next month with 6500 miles on the clock, so I will be taking him in to the Dealer like I always do. They keep all the services on file which means there won't be, or shouldn't be, any dispute as to where and when I got the Oil changed if anything catastrophic happens.
Cost? Well, my Range Rover Sport is also a year old, I took it in a couple of weeks ago and it was just under $300, so I expect the Jag to be around the same.
Ours is one year old next month with 6500 miles on the clock, so I will be taking him in to the Dealer like I always do. They keep all the services on file which means there won't be, or shouldn't be, any dispute as to where and when I got the Oil changed if anything catastrophic happens.
Cost? Well, my Range Rover Sport is also a year old, I took it in a couple of weeks ago and it was just under $300, so I expect the Jag to be around the same.
Dave
coming up to my first oil change being 12 months
i've always prefered to diy but haven't kept a car beyond 12 months for a while now
everytime you drop your car off at a dealer they damage something
i've always prefered to diy but haven't kept a car beyond 12 months for a while now
everytime you drop your car off at a dealer they damage something
Buy 5 liters of the right oil from the dealer, buy an OEM filter off eBay, and do it yourself with a vacuum extractor (about $60 for a good one) from the oil filler hole in the valve cover (there is an extraction tube built right into the engine). The oil filter is also right on top of the engine. If you insist on removing the last ounce of old oil, you can do it the old-school way from the bottom of the oil pan. The oil change franchises will not have the right oil or the filter.
Interesting that changing all your oil, not just some of your oil, at an oil change is considered old school. I'm a bit that way, I even pump my tires all the way up :-)
Is it a brave new world ?
Old habits die hard....never before (for me) 15000 km before an oil change....always, 1000km +/- before 1st change, always change oil before laying the car up for the winter ( as acids/moisture in the old oil bathes the bearings over the winter..bad...). Best plan is to not start it up until spring What does one do now ?
Can buy CastrolEdge with titanium 0-20 lots of places...but apparently the Jag recommended oil has "unobtanium" in it in addition to the titanium.....and my dealer only buys in 50 gal drums and chuckled politely about selling me any in a container.
As an aside...with the awd models haven't we concluded it is 6.5 L is the magic number to avoid an overfill.
Please keep he ideas coming.
Old habits die hard....never before (for me) 15000 km before an oil change....always, 1000km +/- before 1st change, always change oil before laying the car up for the winter ( as acids/moisture in the old oil bathes the bearings over the winter..bad...). Best plan is to not start it up until spring What does one do now ?
Can buy CastrolEdge with titanium 0-20 lots of places...but apparently the Jag recommended oil has "unobtanium" in it in addition to the titanium.....and my dealer only buys in 50 gal drums and chuckled politely about selling me any in a container.
As an aside...with the awd models haven't we concluded it is 6.5 L is the magic number to avoid an overfill.
Please keep he ideas coming.
No changes there.







