What are your thoughts on paint protection film? My Ebony Black convertible arrives this month and I'm not sure what to do. I've only had it on one other car (a red 348 Spyder) and to me I could always tell it was there (like I was practicing 'Safe Sex' if you catch my drift). But I hear this is very soft paint that Jaguar uses and I shutter at the thought of the inevitable first hood chip.




Thoughts?

 

The technology has come a long way. The Xpel Ultimate is a superior product and has saved a number of us nasty chips in the bonnet and rash on the rockers and rear quarter panels. I had those areas covered after the paint had a chance to cure (60 days after manufacture). I also had the spoiler filmed and the remainder of the car cQuartzed which serves to harden the paint. Other threads are talking about touch-up paint. At 5000 miles, I've had no need, though I've seen a couple of micro-dents in the film that seem to fade after time. This is an expensive proposition, though.

 

Do a forum search. Many of us have Xpel Ultimate. Other than a VERY FEW spots on the complex front grill / bumper area, you simply cannot tell it is on the car. Professional installers also wrap the edges and can do a single sheet over the hood with no seams.

I had mine done by the dealer before I ever picked it up. Simply amazing stuff that has great protection and very easy to maintain. I had the entire front end of mine done. In hind sight I should have also had at least parts of the rear quarter panels done as well.

Should be cheaper than getting a body panel repainted, no need to worry about an exact paint match, and even with a respray you still might drive away and get a new chip a few miles later. I have over 12,000 miles on my 2016 including a cross country trip, and the ONLY paint flaw I have is in the edge of the side skirt that wasn't covered. (Get them doe as well. they collect all kind of debris!)

 

So does that mean you never wax the car? Or do you apply wax to the xPel?

 

I had my whole car done, which cost about 3500. They wrap most edges and remove trim in order for the film to go unnoticed.

I don't have to wax the car at all, just use a quick detailer. Also you don't get those swirl marks or scratches when cleaning the car either.

 

Don't pass go, don't collect the $200... Pick up your car and drive it straight to the Xpel installer of your choosing... Before you clock your first 20 miles.

i have an Ebony Black 2015 Coupe R. PPF'd the entire hood, fenders, front bumber, splitter, side rockers, behind the rear tires, and the rear spoiler. Can't even see its there unless you know where to look and exactly what you're looking for.
10,000 miles later, I sometimes wish I did the entire car. The jaguar paint is soft. Virtually impossible to avoid swirl marks, which show easiest on pure black paint. No swirl marks on the surfaces that have been filmed, as the self healing properties of the Xpel are one of the great features of the product.

You can wax, use detail spray, or even apply Quartz paint sealers right over the film, which will punch up the gloss to another level, and harden any exposed paint.

 

+1 on Expel

 

+1 -- Another huge XPEL fan here.

 

What happens if you get a door ding that needs to be removed - does it leave a crease in the Xpel?


What if the Xpel tears (from a ding or real nasty chip) Do they remove the whole sheet and reapply?


What if you need real bodywork from an accident - do you think insurance would cover the cost of new Xpel?


Lastly - wax really penetrates thru the Xpel? I would think once it's applied there'd be no further need for wax since the shine has been 'locked in'. I imagine you would never buff? (All new to me)

 

I just received my 2016 R (Storm Grey - photos to come) and am having much of it covered with '3M'. Is '3M' similar to Expel?

 

I think the consensus here is that 3M is definitely similar, but Xpel Ultimate is far superior.

Look up some YouTube videos on Xpel Ultimate. Make sure its ultimate, there are other lesser qualities...

 

Best answers I can give you above in bold type.

 

Thanks Foosh - that helps. I will usually do a buff and wax/detail every 6 months to bring back that luster and glisten (and rid any swirl marks).


It sounds to me that wouldn't be necessary with Xpel since none of that would ever touch the paint.


So besides an extra level of protection - buff/wax wouldn't really do anything to enhance shine? What do you think?

 

Thoughts on this?

 

All of these products have advantages and disadvantages, and, of course, using those test methods, 3M Scotchguard Pro appeared to have the edge. I'd don't know if that's a new product or not.

When I had XPEL applied more than a year ago, my installer said XPEL was more expensive, had better clarity, was more durable and resistant to tearing, and was a better "self-healer than 3M. He'd said he exclusively used 3M for years, still used it, said it also had a tendency to yellow over time, and that he much preferred XPEL. His labor rate was the same for either product, but his cost was higher for XPEL.

Perhaps that is a new and improved version of the 3M film, but who knows . . .

 

I'd be much more concerned with self-healing properties and clarity. I mean how many times in your life have you had to worry about how well a sharpie wipes off??

 

Yes, and all that proved was that the 3M was better at removing the Sharpie mark with a dry microfiber towel. I suspect the slightest amount of detailer or wax would have made it equally easy to remove.

 

Here is a recent forum thread by some Ferrari owners regarding XPel versus 3M. Some of them have experience with both (the 3M Pro is their latest version).

The consensus seems to be that Xpel Ultimate is superior.

3M vs Xpel ultimate - FerrariChat.com

 

The surface of the film is subject to the same weather, dirt, grime, grease etc that the paint would normally be exposed to, so cleaning / waxing the film will enhance the appearance of the car in the same way as cleaning/waxing the paint.

 

Most definitely. The film will last longer and look better if it is treated/protected the same way the painted surfaces are.