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Aside from bonnets not closing properly, has anyone noticed any problems?
My front bumper needed adjustment before delivery, and the left rear corner of the bonnet had to be adjusted by a bodyshop as it stuck out.
The bottom edge of the left door stands some way proud of the sill/rocker panel, while there is a noticeable step between the bonnet and surrounding panels at the front wheel arch on both sides.
Jagdocs has an alignment document that suggests there should be no more than a couple of millimetres difference, only every single F-Type I saw being made on the factory tour last summer was the same.
Mine is currently at the shop for the front end (nose cone) alignment issue. About a 1/4in. gap on the passenger side where it meets the hood. Since the headlight is in the nose cone, it gaps as well.
They've had it since Thursday, hope to get it back today.
Haven't seen any issues, except if I don't get the hood/bonnet latched squarely (which we've discussed before.)
For those of us still waiting for a car, would any of you expound a little on "the proper way" to close the bonnet so that it latches correctly. Is it subject to damage by twisting or torquing? Is that causing the panel gapping? I didn't try it at the dealer showroom, and it seems a guy can screw that up?? True or false?
For those of us still waiting for a car, would any of you expound a little on "the proper way" to close the bonnet so that it latches correctly. Is it subject to damage by twisting or torquing? Is that causing the panel gapping? I didn't try it at the dealer showroom, and it seems a guy can screw that up?? True or false?
I had this demonstrated for me by the lead technician at the dealer service center...
Stand directly in front of the vehicle. place both hands on the hood, about shoulder width apart, equidistant from the center line of the hood, and as high on the hood as you can comfortably reach. On the non-AWD variants, this would be right about where the hood vents are located. Using the vents themselves is fine, provided you are tall enough to reach.
Push the hood downward with both hands, till the hood is about 2 ft above the latching point, then give it one final nudge as she drops into place.
Pretty easy to do it this way, the only real trick is giving an equal amount of push with both hands at the final nudge.
For those of us still waiting for a car, would any of you expound a little on "the proper way" to close the bonnet so that it latches correctly. Is it subject to damage by twisting or torquing? Is that causing the panel gapping? I didn't try it at the dealer showroom, and it seems a guy can screw that up?? True or false?
Stand in front of the vehicle facing the bonnet, place both hands below the hood vents and push forward and down on the hood using even pressure.
I like this better than the technique my dealer showed, which is what I've used. Lower the hood most of the way, and from the side, reach out and place your hand towards the center of the hood (near the edge by the windshield) and slam it closed.
If you slam it from either side, it can get latched a bit crooked, and then you indeed have uneven gaps.
Most, if not all panel gaps have to be 'tweaked' before the customer receives the car, during PDI.
The Ally panels, especially the bonnet are all pretty flexible, hence the amount of adjustable bump stops and adjuster bolts here and there.
The book says that the gaps should fall in around these tolerances FYI:
If excessive twist has been put in the bonnet i.e If one side front wheel arch is out of canter on the bonnet, it can be easily tweaked to correct position by the adjusters, and if all else fails, the old Heath Robinson method of leaning on it may suffice!
I find standing to one side and pulling down on the centre of the trailing edge of the bonnet, (the lip that's closest to the windscreen when closed) until it is about 1-2' from being closed, THEN walk round the front and push squarely and centrally on the bulge to 'slam' it shut.
Hasn't failed me yet and it's up and down like a h0ar$ drawers as I detail the engine bay on every clean!
Aside from bonnets not closing properly, has anyone noticed any problems?
My front bumper needed adjustment before delivery, and the left rear corner of the bonnet had to be adjusted by a bodyshop as it stuck out.
The bottom edge of the left door stands some way proud of the sill/rocker panel, while there is a noticeable step between the bonnet and surrounding panels at the front wheel arch on both sides.
Jagdocs has an alignment document that suggests there should be no more than a couple of millimetres difference, only every single F-Type I saw being made on the factory tour last summer was the same.
Thoughts?
Apologies if my etiquette is off for bumping such an old thread, but the left door / sill alignment issue is exactly what I am experiencing with my new CPO 2017 with 12K on it. Did you get this resolved? If so, how? A couple forum members recommended adjusting the door latch inboard, but that had little effect on the area in question and misaligned the top edge of door.
I had the same issue with panel gap inconsistency at the wheel arch. There are 4 bump stops that can be adjusted under the hood that can help correct this issue. The front two are the ones you will want to adjust. I was surprised how much I had to raise them. There is a TSB for this issue (you can google "JTB00399NAS1" for the document).
Before:
After:
I still need to make adjustments to make the gap consistent where the bumper meets the hood (near the light), but the wheel arch is looking much better.
I had the same issue with panel gap inconsistency at the wheel arch. There are 4 bump stops that can be adjusted under the hood that can help correct this issue. The front two are the ones you will want to adjust. I was surprised how much I had to raise them. There is a TSB for this issue (you can google "JTB00399NAS1" for the document).
Before:
After:
I still need to make adjustments to make the gap consistent where the bumper meets the hood (near the light), but the wheel arch is looking much better.
Looks muuuuch better. Will attend to mine soon.
Robert
I had the same issue with panel gap inconsistency at the wheel arch. There are 4 bump stops that can be adjusted under the hood that can help correct this issue. The front two are the ones you will want to adjust. I was surprised how much I had to raise them. There is a TSB for this issue (you can google "JTB00399NAS1" for the document).
Before:
After:
I still need to make adjustments to make the gap consistent where the bumper meets the hood (near the light), but the wheel arch is looking much better.
What is a "TSB"? Is anyone aware of a fix for the bottom of the drivers door being proud by about 1/4"? (Picture earlier in thread) I tried the door latch adjustment someone here recommended, but that had minimal effect in the problem area and misaligned the top of the door. I've seen other Ftypes with same problem and i'm sure it's only us that notices it. But now that I know its there, it drives me nuts!!!!
Panel Gaps
