Anyone else had problems with the red bits of their S or R badges coming away in the corner (where it meets the chrome) and starting to peel off?
I noticed this on the front badge a few months ago, and managed to fix it with a carefully applied tiny amount of super glue.
Then, a couple of days ago, I noticed the same thing on the rear badge.
So just now I tried the same super glue fix but no go, I just made it (much) worse. This cannot be due to weather or sun damage as my car spends 90% of the time in the garage.
Luckily I had a spare badge lying around (a black one) so I took the damaged badge off and replaced it with the black one. The black one is not "perfect" in that the coloured part is a bit concave as opposed to the OEM badge coloured part being a bit convex, the green is darkish rather than light, and the ends of the "S" are a little bit shorter that the OEM badge, but it was the only black S badge I could find after lots of searching.
I'm happy with the way it looks, even if it no longer perfectly matches the front badge, and it's a helluva lot better than the stuffed up OEM badge.
So back to the original question, is anyone else finding "peeling" badges?

 

yes. This has happened to my S badge on the trunk lid. I was thinking of going in to see if the service department will step up and replace it

 

Will be checking them now. Does your down under warranty cover this defect?

 

This was a common problem on a previous vehicle. Someone even referred to it as the "silver badge mod." I think it's just the way the badges are made. On previous car, dealer s sometimes replaced them even if warranty was up because the badge falling apart poorly represents the Badge (or marque, brand, or other term of choice).

If mine starts to do that I'm certainly pushing for replacement.

 

Yes, rear badge peeling.

 

I don't know if the warranty covers it (my warranty expires in 2.5 months' time) but my local dealership is hopeless and they are the only dealer within 700 km so I'm not going to waste my time with them. I have fixed it myself anyway simply by replacing the badge, and IMHO the replacement black badge looks better than the chrome badge seeing as my car has the black pack and I have already debadged all the chrome lettering on the rear. My next little project - today - is to remove the chrome leaper and replace it with a black leaper. Yesterday I spray painted a new chrome leaper with high gloss black caliper paint and so far it's looking good. I had bought a replacement black leaper but it turned out to be crap quality, lightweight plastic with the 3M tape on the back falling off, while the spare chrome leaper I had is good quality and quite heavy. Also, where the leaper sits is slightly curved so the leaper itself needs to be bent a little to sit flat. I didn't even try to bend the black plastic leaper as it probably would have broken but I managed to bend the chrome leaper (before painting it) to the right shape. It is quite tough metal and it took some real effort to bend.
Another plus is that if all goes to plan I can position the new black leaper a couple of mm lower than the OEM leaper (and still cover the central holes in the spoiler) and that way it will sit more central on the spoiler.

 

Update.
OEM chrome leaper removed and replacement black (hand painted) leaper now stuck on, about 3 mm lower than the OEM leaper placement (can't go any lower and still keep the holes covered up), and it looks good so far.
The OEM leaper is light flimsy ABS plastic, with two locating tabs on the back which slot into holes in the spoiler.
Made a slight boo-boo with the replacement leaper, I bent it a bit too much (despite testing how it sat - I didn't test well enough!) so it is stuck on the ends only with a big gap in the middle. You can only see the gap if you look side on, so 99.9% of the time the gap is invisible. My main worry is that heat and/or water will cause it to lift and eventually fall off.
But I have two back ups - the el cheapo black one that I thought was no good but I have now fixed, the double sided adhesive piece that fell off simply needed the cover peeled off the inside then sticking back into/onto the badge, and the OEM leaper.
I cut the two mounting tabs off the back of the OEM leaper and I am in the process of painting it gloss black with the same spray can of caliper paint I used on the first black leaper. Then, if I ever need/want to, I will stick it on using black silicone adhesive.

 

Glad I found this slightly older thread. I noticed my rear one was starting to peel when I was washing the car this past weekend. I was wondering if they were available in black and figured I'd come here to find out. Since I'd like to black out the leaper and lettering I was wondering if maybe I should just rip off the green/red and do the whole thing in black (and do the same to the front?). Maybe I'll just order replacements for everything and go the black route so I have replacements that look like originals to put back on later if needed. Yes, I'm thinking out loud again.

 

@OzXFR . Good fun ! I had a LR2 for a while [ Freelander ], which I 'pimped' with some black badges and a set of SVR badges from China....

So JLR uses the chinses badges as they are the same -bad- quality..

Problem was : after some months the coloured bit came off... Check the SVR badge in the image of the rear of the LR2 below.

Solution : go to a place where they wrap cars and ask for some bits of red and black. Just stick it on the badge and trim it with a cutter..

Looks like original..

When I discovered this, I had a local printshop cut some SVR badges from silver wrapfoil.. result below, on a black car..

 

Yes, the F will fall off if you brush against it. I figure it is because it is a hard piece of plastic on a flexible rear fascia.

 

Beware that the only black "S" badges I could find are not quite the same size and shape as the OEM chrome badges. The differences are small, and not enough to notice if you replace the rear badge, but I suspect a replacement front badge will not fit right on/in the backing plate, it may not fit at all or it may leave gap(s). That is why I haven't bothered to replace my front badge.
See this post for pics of my current rear end: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...8/#post1880469

 

Why do I bother...

 

 

@PBBarb.

I just tried it one day, as I couldn't believe it it would be simple. But it is..
To protect the paint around the badge - in case you slip with the cutter knife - , cover an area around the badge with cross layers of masking tape.
This will not protect it 100% , but its better then nothing.

It is dead simple ;
-remove the peeling section, rip this part of plastic off as its just stuck to the chrome base;
-take a piece of wrap of the proper color red/black and stick it roughly in place, so it covers more then the required section;
-trim with a cutter inside the chrome edge of the badge - be carefull not to slip as you'd cut your paint- ;
- the more patient and steady handed you are, the better the result;

Good luck !

 

Good tip Dan.
My problem is my hands are nowhere near steady enough for this (a symptom of a medical problem I have), never mind that my close up eyesight is also crap! Those two reasons pretty much explain why I totally botched the attempt to glue the loose bit back down on my rear badge and ended up replacing it with a black one.

 

If my S badge starts peeling, it's just coming off entirely.

 

To be replaced by the magical (or is that mythical?) "U" badge that you are meant to be looking into!

 

@OzXFR. Well, I recognise those problems. In particular near eyesight as the reading part is at the bottom and with DIY I often find myself looking through the top part of the lenses.. ..making vision worse..

 

I'm still trying to figure out how to do it. Now that I know that the red/green dot is just stickered onto the body of the badge I can have that printed on a piece of vinyl. Perhaps I can have the badge body 3D printed, and then chromed. I know exactly how to get steps 1 & 3 done, but don't know where to get it 3D printed. The U badge is mythical until it is fabricated, and then it will be truly magical.

 

I'm somewhat surprised you don't have a 3D printer yet, as they've gotten pretty inexpensive. Unless you want to print with sintered titanium - that's a bit more expensive.