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Before attempting any further diagnosis, check the available battery voltage.
With the ignition in the OFF position for at least 30 minutes, use a voltmeter across the battery terminals to read the available voltage. The voltmeter should display a minimum of 12.6 volts. If it shows less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect and should be replaced before going any further or replacing parts.
Before attempting any further diagnosis, check the available battery voltage.
With the ignition in the OFF position for at least 30 minutes, use a voltmeter across the battery terminals to read the available voltage. The voltmeter should display a minimum of 12.6 volts. If it shows less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect and should be replaced before going any further or replacing parts.
hello friend, the mechanic claims he already tested the battery thoroughly, and it’s a new battery
These are all very random codes. As other mentioned, I would check the battery condition. My theory is that a low voltage situation is causing incorrect readings from the ABS module (which, btw is tied to the module that controls the softtop) as a result, not closing. Those incorrect reading are then freaking out the ECM. I would definitely start with a healthy battery, clear the codes, and see if it comes back.