Apologies for starting a new thread - I was going to edit the original, but I no longer am able to! Basically I'm asking for a bit of technical advice before I book an inspection. As there don't seem to be any Jaguar specialists in the area, would you be comfortable getting a PPI done at a dealer, or are there (non $) reasons to avoid them?

Yesterday I went to look at this one car (same one w/ the disabled spoiler) - a 2017 S AWD. Overall it's beautiful. The wrap isn't the best job I've ever seen, but I've also seen few wraps up close, so it's possible I'm just uneducated. Owner claims that the paint (Black Berry) underneath is in good shape, and judging by his old IG photos, it seems true. The wrap is something I don't care one way or the other about - I can just remove it and be as happy, but the colour is neat. Otherwise it has the kind of interior wear you'd expect from an 8ish year old car with 110k km.

Mechanically, I'm fairly confident in it, except for following:

• The exhaust - I can't confirm if the valves are working. They may be stuck open? When pressing the Loud button while parked, it flashes its light a few times, but the sound doesn't seem to change.
• The sun shade thing - it won't open. If I try to push it a little harder, it seems to start to buckle somewhere in the middle. Obviously something is stuck? A few threads I saw sounded inconclusive to this particular one.
• The parking assist - no idea how this even works (despite a lot of googling, most info seems to only speak of what it does, not the process of using it). I press the button beside the touch screen, but nothing happens. I assume the button only exists if the feature exists on the car? Maybe I was using it incorrectly?
• The seat - again I don't have a lot of experience. All the other 'ways' seem to work fine, but I'm unsure if the lumbar support adjustment is working, as I couldn't feel much of a difference for trying to make it stronger. I blanked on testing the passenger seat.
• And the spoiler (as mentioned in the previous thread) - he mentioned cutting a 'wire rod, a wire' which is... possibly concerning but maybe not. Is it possible this could be connected w/ the parking assist or exhaust valves, or are they completely different systems/wiring?
• Coolant pipes have been upgraded (but not to metal), and the supercharger coupling seems in decent shape. I'd want to change these pipes at some point, but it doesn't seem urgent at the moment.

Otherwise, everything else feels functional as far as I can see. So can anyone tell me roughly what you think or know about the complexity of fixing these issues? To me these don't seem like dealbreakers as long as the seller is willing to adjust his asking price accordingly based on what the inspection tells me.

Other things of note:

• He has no maintenance records save for the last oil change, however he claims he is the second owner, and has had the car for around two years. His IG bears out the length of ownership claim
• He only has the one key. Is this worth haggling over?

Cheers, and Happy Thanksgiving to any fellow Canucks who are watching.

(the car in question)

 

Blackberry is a nice color, imo. Nice to have that under the wrap.

Decent chance the owner pulled a fuse to keep the exhaust open all the time. Not clear what MY this car is, it might have the noisy electric vacuum pump for active exhaust behind and inboard of the left rear wheel. If so, F43 under the carpet of the passenger footwell powers it. (Many threads here about that.)

 

It's a 2017. I wish I had thought to check fuses! According to him, he hadn't changed anything with the exhaust, but who knows. I'll make a note to ask the tech to check all the fuses as well - I appreciate your thoughts here!

 

With the sunshade it is a bit of a PITA but the easiest workaround is to push it fully closed and then it should work. I leave mine open about a centimeter and have no problem doing it that way. If it is jammed shut fully closed, try jiggling it from the handle, which loosens it.

The park assist button might only be to turn the camera and beepers on, you probably have to be in drive for that to happen (if it is in reverse it should turn on automatically). I did read that if you hold the button in for 3 seconds then the cameras will turn on by themselves when driving slowly (which they do in my F Pace) but I havent tried to engage that in my car.

On the exhaust I think it is hard to tell when they are parked and you rev them, unless you get old mate to do the revving in both modes while you are standing out the back.

 

The dealer si probably as good as you can get.
It is a vacuum operating system, it needs a second or two to open. If you rev the car to the P limiter (3-4k rpm) few times with valves ON and OFF you WILL hear a difference. My button does not flash, just LED ON/OFF.
Works if you are in Reverse or if you press it in Drive.
IMO impossible to miss if the lumbar support is working, the difference is night and day. It is not expensive to fix but it is a pita because you have to reupholster the seat. Remember that the button has 2 axis, lumbar down/up and forward/backward.
Wiring should be different, but he might do something with it since it has a different wing.
Good
Good
No, you can get new keys if you don't want to live with the thought that the second is in the wild.

I would ask if there are also OEM wheels. Also the car looks lowered but maybe it is just that the wheels have less offset.

 

Make sure that the one key fob has a physical key inside it, used if the car battery dies.

 

Thanks Bruce - I think the shade was already fully closed, but that is good advice. That is exactly what we did with the exhaust - I kneeled behind the car and heard no difference.

I did, he no longer has them - was planning to use them for winter tires, but ended up storing the car in the winter and so sold them (will confirm @ inspection, but yay if so!). I'd like to swap these for some 19" at some point, but it's not a buying decision.

I didn't even think of that, thank you DJS!

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Now on to other things - is there a list somewhere of 'stuff that should be included with the car'? I mean like 'the car should have x keys, owner's manual/xyz literature, spare tire, under trays for x y and z areas, this this and that trunk cover, engine bay covers, jack, tow hook' etc...

 

Now on to other things - is there a list somewhere of 'stuff that should be included with the car'? I mean like 'the car should have x keys, owner's manual/xyz literature, spare tire, under trays for x y and z areas, this this and that trunk cover, engine bay covers, jack, tow hook' etc...


*****
I have a 2017, manual trans. coupe

1. if the exhaust valves aren't working, check underneath to see if the vacuum hoses are connected. I believe that this valve issue falls under a 10 yr factory warranty, but I could be mistaken.. you can ask?

2. The park assist is that button along side the screen that you press when you are in parking process (I think under 8 mph).. it will beep and show orange bars when you are getting close to an obstacle and the bars turn red when you are dangerously close.

3. With #2 in mind, check the condition of the rubber lip (3 sections, 2 side pieces and a longer center section.) across the front of the car. These are kind of a 'throwaway' protector for the solid body front lip.. you will hear/feel those hitting something, hopefully before the body parts do. The replacements are about $200 for the set of 3 (new)

4. An owner's manual is very important, but not critical as you can access the info digitally from Jaguar.

5. The fobs can be pricey. Check the Youtube video for how to access the internals (key to get in the car) Not my first choice for a video, but it gets the job done.


6. No spare tire, generally. There should be a small portable air compressor as well as a bottle of goo that is the tire sealant. The sealant is probably outdated for use, but Unibottle, sold on Amazon is a great replacement and should fit the same storage space as the original.

7. There is no jack, but I did buy an OE jaguar f jack as well as a dedicated socket and breaker bar in case I have to get the tire off. There is easily space in those storage areas for that. I also modified a practice hockey puck to fit on top of the f jack to protect the underside of the car. There are little arrows that are stamped/pressed into the sides of the sills to show you where the jack would need to be placed. You'll have to get on your knees to see the arrows, there is one behind the front wheels and one in front of rear wheels.

8. A tow hook was included with the car, I have one, but it may not be there.

9. There should be an engine cover. Many owners in warm climates remove it, but doing that on a permanent basis can allow damaging water/rain ingress to the engine compartment. The water pools around areas and corrodes components. I changed out the bonnet vents on my 2017 to a style that keeps most of the water out. I live in Wisconsin, so extreme heat is not an issue, but on really hot days, I will garage the car and raise the bonnet.

10. See if there is a CarFax for the car (need the VIN). It may or may not be up to date, but some information is better than none.

11. If this is a 2017, there may not be any updates for the NAV system. My 2017 was built late 2016 and only has the USB port in the console. If the car has an SD port, you MAY be able to get a NAV update, as SD is the only available format, AFAIK.

12. Do check the operation of the center vent, it should raise and lower smoothly and quietly without grinding.

13. Here is a link for the sticky pano roof screen:

https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=7419

14. The Supercharger oil is supposed to be good for 100,000 miles... that should be replaced

15. You possibly can get a Monroney sticker for the car

https://monroneylabels.com/

Some owners report that the sticker is not accurate, but it was for my car.

Good luck!

 

FYI, Monronylabels.com doesn't seem to work on Canadian cars

 

The tow hook is stored beside the battery in the trunk. There is a Styrofoam holder for it.

 

Thanks Valerie! I did see the bottle of sealant in the trunk - it was some Continental product. The hook w/ the styrofoam was there as well. I didn't see any portable compressor (or didn't know where to look). The engine cover is off, but he has it and will provide it. Carfax is clean (but we all know the caveats with those), and fluids. I believe, are current.

I don't know how much I'll be using the factory nav, but how did they expect to update those otherwise?

Exhaust and roof shade I'll deal with afterwards - exhaust likely the easier DIY fix if I choose that route. Not sure about removing the headliner myself!


The Monroney site seems to like my VIN, but I don't know that I need to spend the $10 on it - is it basically showing the same thing that the VIN decoder does, or does it have some higher level of accuracy/completeness?


What kind of panels or doors am I looking for in the back? I know he had the kind of plastic tub, as well as the panel that goes to the left of it, but I don't recall if he had the panel that goes on top of the tub - was this something that's supposed to be with every car?

 

There should be a cover over the battery compartment and a cover over the tub. Those should have come with every coupe. Not sure about verts.

 

be careful.

The car is like the E version except there are a bunch of interconnected computers making diy service very hard.

Need the dealer for most items. They have closed most of the dealers in some fashion.

Had a parking brake warming light that would not go off. Cost $3000 to repair. Took two weeks.

Sliding roof stuff was very expensive to deal with.

A second key fob will be very expensive. A day at the shop as well. As I remember north of $500. You need one.

$5-10,000 maybe for all?.

How are the tires?

From the reflections in front looks like has has hit several curbs,

Your finding what you did in minute reflects on the owner. I am uneasy. From afar. An owner with all these niggly things kind of concerns me.

Might be no big deal.

 

I don't think the owner knows a ton about the car, and bought it to look cool, tbh. This is partly why it's going in to get inspected tomorrow - it's a lot to spend on a car to go in blind, but if the car is mechanically sound it's something to consider. That said, he appears to have kept up on the maintenance, and I give him points for replacing the coolant pipes, but also I understand that not everyone is as into their cars as we are.

The tires are newish, but all-seasons. He says he had some bodywork done on the front bumper to fix some stone chips etc before getting it wrapped.

Some say there's no such thing as a bad product, only a bad price. If the price is right and there's nothing major wrong with it, then I'll likely be picking it up.

FYI this is a kinda shaky photo of the car pre-wrap. I can see some stone chips on the front, but that's about it. I appreciate your concern, Tomkatb!

 

Been working on old English cars since the 70’s. No more. Well, almost none.

I own the 2018 F. P-300 is my current car. None of my English cars saw a dealer.

looked at many cars. My son has the same sickness. He is trying to make a better than new 69 Chevelle Malibu.

having it inspected is a good plan.

EXOTIC cars are expensive to maintain. Mine has been wonderful. Generally they are sturdy. Only the central dash computer has failed.

 

You commented in your initial "F-Type purchase" thread that this car was NOT the ideal one and that you had missed out on a few others you preferred more during the summer. As I continue to read about some of your concerns and learn more about the vehicle I personally would pass unless you received a GREAT deal from the seller. I'd recommend being patient and not settling because it could end up being an expensive process on a car with too many questions and no warranty. In addition, winter arrives in Ontario in another month which means you may not be driving it as much and there will be other F-Type's for sale once spring arrives that you may like better. Good luck with your decision.

 

I also do not like the picture and wrap thing.

must be a deal.

there are a lot of low milage garage queens out there.

Holes for mounting the license plate?

 

if i was purchasing that right now, i would put my money to the coolant pipe upgrade ,change the oil and the coupler ,even if the sellar said they did it ,i wouldn't even drive till i get them things done, bullet proof it first, just my 2 cents

 

You're 100% right - I've seen ones that I liked much better just from them being more complete in a stock state and less potential effort to get to where I want - but I have a feeling about this one (which may or may not be borne out by the inspection it's undergoing rn) and we'll see how that goes. If this one falls through, I'm definitely out until the spring, but I guarantee you that each day without one will be painful, haha.


Honestly, I'm not a super fan of it being wrapped, but the colour is interesting and I would probably keep it on for at least a year or two before getting it stripped. The price is about average, but I'm not going to offer what he's asking, based on what I've already seen and what's missing, etc. Not sure what you're asking about the plate holes, but it does include a front mount for the plate, since they're mandatory in Ontario.


I see what you're saying, but the coolant pipes have been replaced with the updated plastic units (visually confirmed), so I think they're good for at least a year or so without me having to panic, and then I can get those done when I have more time next year. Speaking of which, how 'bulletproof' are these aluminum pipes? Are they kind of a 'guaranteed to never break/leak' (within reason) kind of deal, long term fix?

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Dealership just called and there's a CEL on, so they can't do the safety until that's dealt with, so this is suddenly more complicated, haha. The seller says he had a CEL come on just shortly before I first contacted him, and that it had to do with some bank something or other lean something, and so he had a PCV valve replaced to correct it, so he's not sure what's going on with this one now.

Anyway, I've agreed w/ the seller that he'll deal with that, and then I'll be responsible for the safety, still... I guess we'll see how things go, but this is not a good sign. Ughhhhh.

 

Many of us in northern climates are technically without one as our F-Types become garage queens for four months. Nick, don't let the lack of actually owning one during the winter affect your process in finding the Jaguar you really want. Patience grasshopper!