anyone had any experience with hardwiring a radar detector in a 2020 f type I have the wiring kit and the blendmount. Just need to know how to access the wires in the mirror mount

 

I expect it's the same as my 2016. I used a trim tool to pull it down a little them it popped straight down. It took a little more force than I expected, but it's just clips. The wiring is different than mine, so no help on that. There's a thread here somewhere that describes it. That's where I got the pinouts for my installation, but I'm pretty sure it notes the later wiring too.

EDIT: I should say, I got it down a little, then grabbed with my fingertips and pulled.evenly.

 

I installed mine using a MirrorTap wire. I used a trim tool (like lizzardo mentioned) on the center roof dome light surround. I then used a voltage tester to find a "switched-on" 12v connection. Make sure it is dead when the ignition key is off, or the detector will never shut down. I used the continuity tester to find a ground connection. Fairly straight-forward.

I tried the same process on my wife's BMW, but the result was less than optimum. I broke the tabs on the surround, and there was a computer board underneath that I decided not to mess with. Replacement module (the surround was not available separately) plus install was ~$1300.

 

I used this thread to hardwire my radar detector, very easy.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...talled-134047/

 

Be aware that F Type UV windshields severely attenuate radar signals. Windshield mounted detectors have extremely limited sensitivity. If your serious about radar detectors for Ka and K bands, I would consider a remote mounted detector. A good resource for information is rdforum.org.
CRS

 

Interesting, I didn't know this. My Uniden R3 goes off constantly for K band currently, so I thought it was sensitive enough. It will pick up radar speed signs 30 seconds before I can even see them.

 

Eh, I concur. I get a blast from Ka band from 2 miles out consistently using a Uniden windshield mount.

 

It's possible the front glass has changed from the early models. I own the MY 17 R coupe which does indeed have front glass that attenuates radar. I tested with a very sensitive redline and my Netradar remote crushed it every time. Jaguar even provided a small area near the rear view mirror that was free of the metallic glass inlay so that transponders would work. (see owners manual) I tried mounting the radar detector up near there but it was still terrible. The same detector when used in my other car had incredible range. This is a known issue...much the same as windshields used in Teslas. Please double check the model year specs for your car, and also confer with the radar link i provided earlier. You don't want to spend money on a system that gives you false sense of security.
CRS

 

from my understanding, not many departments use K band anymore, unless you’re in a rural area.

 

In California this is True. CHP mostly uses Ka band 34.7 either I/O or C/O. Also, Lidar is widely used. Lidar protection is another discussion entirely. Check your state for the most widely used radar and Lidar guns.
CRS

 

I disabled the K-band after an upgrade to my V1 made it much more sensitive. On my commute it was going off so much that it was completely useless.

 

Yeah, I have to constantly turn the volume down as even a volume setting of 1 is annoying to me. Maybe I should disable the K band or set it to city mode which filters a lot of the K band noise.

 

For this reason I had the ALP remote system installed. The ALP also jams laser, if one desires. Better than the Escort Max 360 for this reason alone, IMHO.
I am not compensated for this shout-out, I just know the ALP remote system gets around the JLR Heated Front Windshield matrix block, and has Zero clutter. They are only sold direct, here: https://www.alpriorityusa.com/
This has saved my bacon countless times. No tickets on my record, and I've even got that VAP pulley and tune on my XE.

 

I have a 2020 t-type and plan to install my radar detector on dash. Mounting the R/D next to the mirror is a problem because it blocks the sun visor. I have noticed that the filaments for the heated windshield do not go all the was to the left or right A pillar. I assume that is what is blocking the signal? So. I'm thinking it could be mounted low on left side of glass and still have reception. Any thoughts on this? I have not tried it yet?

 

I use an direct wired R7 mounted to the right of the mirror and it does not interfere with the sun visor not that it would make much difference. The blend mount just hung the detector too low and I still had the direct wire showing. The way I have the detector mounted keeps it up and out of the way and the left tilt of the R7 screen allows for a perfect view of the detector screen from the drivers seat.

Most detectors allow you to turn off or reduce sensitivity of each radar frequency



. So, in El Paso, I know the police do not use either X or K so those are off significantly reducing false alerts. Laser makes no difference. If they use laser you are toast anyway unless you have a laser jammer.

Here is a map of the US, by county, which will give you a very good idea of what the police are using in your county. Use this and you can decide what radar frequency you can safely turn off. https://lexbrook.com/rdf/?qtpop&state=48

 

To test your windshield mounting location, find an automated door opener that sets your detector off or some other source of constant radar. Then compare your sensitivity through the windshield vs holding the detector outside your window pointed the same direction. If the signal is the same strength inside and outside your car, then that position inside is OK. And yes, it's the metal filaments that block signal.

 

If your windshield is IR blocking, that too will block the radar detector, EZ Pass, etc.

 

When I bought my 2017 F-Type, I was told by the dealer that the windshield would block ANY radar detection efforts, so not to waste time/money on a detector. I looked at a couple of front mounted detectors, but decided instead to wait a bit. So far, so good, but then I usually drive the traffic. Around S.W. Fla. that is usually 10-20 mph above posted limits.
The ALP system looks good, but for the price, you could pay a lot of tickets......

 

Even the IR-blocking windshields should have a "window" in the shielding for things like toll tags. I think it's next to the mirror at the top edge, but without that kind of windshield to check I'm going from memory.

 

I have it on the XE. Correct, there’s an area with black dots on each side of the mirror. My EZ-Pass fills one of those areas.