F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Replacing the 3" Rear Speakers With 5x7's

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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 07:37 PM
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B15hop's Avatar
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Default Replacing the 3" Rear Speakers With 5x7's

Hello again folks,

So it's pretty easy to do. You can actually just do a direct swap but I wanted to use an amp.
You should use an active LOC if you do this or you will push quite a bit of volts to your amp from the factory amp and most likely cause it to fault.
I have swapped every speaker in this car out. Direct swaps for the highs, mids and midbass.
Swapped and amped the subs with a custom cut, straight aluminum 1/8" plate, which wasn't really too hard. New subs are 8" and fit in the factory housing behind the seats.
And now swapped the 3" speakers which are above the subs, behind the seats, with 5x7s. Really an all around beast now and didn't even change the head unit.

Anyway, this is how it turned out for the 5x7s but I have vids of the other stuff on my youtube as well.
Maybe it will help some people out.
.
.

Cheers.
 

Last edited by B15hop; Mar 15, 2026 at 08:01 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 09:38 AM
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From: SacTown
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Very informative! The rear upper speakers are positioned at ear height and provide a nice surround effect only if tuned with correct polarity and speaker distance carefully measured to the L and R ear of the driver using a DSP.

But on a separate note I would worry about all your equipment being behind the seat. That's a lot of heat being generated with nowhere to go. You can use a thermal camera to check the temp during high volume music playing.

Plus I need the seat to all the way back against the rear wall to drive comfortably. All my equipment is in the trunk with 12V computer fans blowing on them for heat dissipation. I also didn't want to cut anything in case I needed to revert back to OEM if I were to ever sell the car.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCode3
Very informative! The rear upper speakers are positioned at ear height and provide a nice surround effect only if tuned with correct polarity and speaker distance carefully measured to the L and R ear of the driver using a DSP.

But on a separate note I would worry about all your equipment being behind the seat. That's a lot of heat being generated with nowhere to go. You can use a thermal camera to check the temp during high volume music playing.

Plus I need the seat to all the way back against the rear wall to drive comfortably. All my equipment is in the trunk with 12V computer fans blowing on them for heat dissipation. I also didn't want to cut anything in case I needed to revert back to OEM if I were to ever sell the car.
Well thank you. It doesn't seem to get too hot really and it doesn't stop the seat from going back at all. I made very sure of that because I need every inch lol. The amp on the floor goes under the seat as it goes back and the one on the rear wall doesn't come into contact with the seat, even when all the way back. I lost no trunk space, even with the subs and thats a win IMO.
Adjusting the sound level can be done pretty much with just gain and LOC level IMO. DSP is kind of unnecessary. I mean it's always nice but I don't find it critical in this situation.
To each their own of course.
 
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