I know this has been done to death but
I am just about to fit some hertz legend mids and tweeters and a 8 inch ap8 in the doors
the rears are listed as sub's and mids
Well they seem frankly Dire and my question is do they only rcve a small amount of power from the amp as they just perform awfully and nowhere even remotely close to a sub or a woofer
I it the speakers or are only meant to be background sound

I have the meridian surround system
tks

 

In my car they are barely audible no matter how you set the various controls including volume.

 

Looks like adding a mono amp is only solution

 

Plan is to scrap the 2 useless woofers and take the signal to a mono amp and run 2 jl audio 6.5inch subs and leave the puny mids to change at a later date if required

 

The signal at the subs is literally 30hz and not much more than that. They are basically seat shakers. The signal at the door’s 8’s has plenty of bass signal that is musical.

 

Here is the thread that I (audio noob) found invaluable and explains the in and outs of rear subwoofer dilemma

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...osures-244308/

Fantastic group of Members Jagbass,TH3FRB and Robrt8 all super knowledgeable and shows the discovery of this problem.
Do disconnect the OEM subs once you have installed your own . I ran with both but ended up removing them completely because of bass rattle/vibration and much better for it. The OEM sub can be disconnected by removing pin from the connector rather than cutting wires or desoldering so is entirely reversible.
I have photos of how to do this for you if you need .

 

If I had it to do over again I'd do Morel Carbon Elate 93A's in the doors and two 10's (probably Kicker SoloBarics) in the way-back.

 

Also Beware about replacing the OEM subs with another free air in the same location as speaker grills actually sit against the frame and speaker roll and would still vibrate badly.

 

Any pictures would be great thanks

 

The white plastic inser needs to be removed first. Don’t forget to put it back in later

Easily done by releasing and pushing forward on the side tabs that hold it in place

Release the pins by gently without breaking levering the grey locking tab downwards and wiggle pin out backwards

Need to remove blue and red wire. One for each coil of DVC subwoofer

Isolate and zip tie the loose pins down

 

Tks
is the red the positive connector and blue the negative for the sub tks
what are the other 3 wires for

 

White and red are positive and neg for one of the voice coils. The other voice coil is green and blue. The subwoofer is a dual voice coil design so both voice coils need to be deactivated. Obviously you cold choose the other (green + white ) to remove or all 4 if you really wanted to but red and blue was at the top and the easier to remove. Like any circuit you only have to detach on e lead to break the circuit to make it inoperative. Orange and black is for the midrange back fill speaker so you do not want to touch those ones

 

So to run my new speakers which are not dual voice coil what signal wires + and - colour do I need to send to my lc2i converter
as I will just need
Left chanel pos and neg
Right chanel pos and neg
Tks

 

you should also read
F-Type Stereo System Upgrade Planning Thread. Post 324 has a picture of the wiring colours and the correct ones to tap. You need to tap into the wiring harness so you can access the bass signal from the door woofers and not the wires from the subwoofer speakers which has bugger all signal as has already been mentioned before

 

I think that's the idea with the lci2i it takes the signal from a speaker output and converts that to send onto the audison amp which then powers the 2 new jl 6inch subs

 

One down 7 to go

 

Going to use audison 500.1 and lc2i pro for the subs
the rear mid is actually no that bad
Audison ap8 for the door bass and mille legend for the mids and tweeters