Hello,

As the title, do anyone know if there is mechanical differences between the RHD headlights and the LHD headlights or if it's only a matter of programming? I Assume that they act different.

I need a passenger side headlight with black inside for my LHD 2015 beauty.

 

Do you have cornering light option installed?

From my quick review of TopIX, there doesn't appear to be any difference int he bog standard lights. You will just need to get them setup for X and Y height which you can do manually.

 

There is a mechanical difference in the headlight projectors. RHD and LHD cars shine light differently as to not blind the oncoming cars. For example:

 

 

That's not correct for our cars. The cutoff is level.
Took this snippet from TopIX:

HTH

 

My MY18 manual says "Adjustment is required when driving abroad if the vehicle is fitted with LED headlights. Move the lighting control from the AUTO position (5) to position (4) before driving. Position (4) is the "normal" headlights on position, one click past sidelights on. I guess that's to disable the AFS intelligence built in to the AUTO lighting position that adjusts for country, city, motorway, adverse weather modes.

 

That's correct for the LED's, however the OP is running a 2015 model, so it'll be the 'ole 'round eyes'.

 

The only adjustment to consider on the old HID system is that there is a setting in vehicle setup when using the auto hi-beam feature that you need to set for which side of the road you drive on.

 

there is definitely a difference in cutoff bw lhd and rhd - just drive up to a flat wall and you can easily see the shape of the beam as per pic above

on a bi-xenon/hid projector vehicle, there is no way to change the shape of the shield within the projector bowl that creates this cutoff, electronically within the car

as to Jag's website, they are only talking about temporarily driving in another market, not as fitted from factory

 

Hi, I'll revive this topic with the same question, but for the newer LED headlights with AFS function on the X152. Is there any HW difference, or different units, or are all the differences only in the SW (or can it adapt itself to the LHD car, for example, by a simple setting in the on-board computer)?
Thanks guys

 

I asked around at my Jaguar specialist. He says there is a hardware difference and you have to have a RHD or a LHD set whatever you have to use.

I have the same problem. I have a F-type for the US market which isn’t allowed in the EU (I’m from the Netherlands). There is a lot headlights available for the UK market (LHD), but are not adaptable. I finally found a left and right headlight, but one of them is with cornering lights…… which also won’t work electronicaly. The search goes on. Of course I can buy a good left headlight today, but they quote me a €1000. I think that’s ridiculous.

The difference must be in the projector setup.

 

- if you have 2014 car, you are refering to Xenons not LED as STICKLER asked about now
- UK market is RHD not LHD
- cornering lights (AFS) have 16 pins and one more control module than 11 pin "standard" lights
- 11pin lights are around 1000 EUR, 16pin lights are up to 2000 EUR
- be careful, there are two versions of both, with chrome or black housings

 

I upgraded to factory LED's in my 2014 XJR (Different car for sure!). There are LHD and RHD versions and I had to get the correct version for a US car.
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Soo. What does this mean for LED lights? Is anyone sure of the answer here?

 

Hi.
The Photo of inside headlight without ASF. If you need conversation RHD to LHD than you repleace only shutter under lens .
Tips.!
The shutter fits from other bi xenons brand VALEO

 

They have a different part number (LH vs RH), so I am afraid they are different. Tail lights have the same number (ECE) both LH and RH.
Sadly I don't know the physical difference.

 

Hey off subject BUT you got the head light apart!
Can you share how you did it? Oven baking at a certain temperature works on other lights but these late model ones seem to be harder to split.
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You need use to Hot gun directed towards the edges of headlihgt
Set up temperature about 270 C

 

Wow that is hot!
No damage to the shell at those temperatures? I am use to around 220F-250F on other head lights and 270C is 518F.
Surprised plastic can stand that.

No wonder we are having problems splitting the lens.
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Anyone can open it and make the edge unusable.
The trick is to open it in such a way that it fits tightly againThe edge also closes if there is butyl(ene) in between