I'm not sure if this was posted yet. Ran a search and never found any definitive solution. If this is a repost, please let me know. Thanks.

Like many others, my '16 F-Type has an issue where, after connecting anything through the OBD port, the car's electronics would remain active, with symptoms like a constantly-lit emergency button light, and the door locks's LED indicators remain on long after the car is completely "off." If unnoticed, it would proceed to drain the battery completely within a span of days. This is particularly annoying because my O2 sensors would trip sometimes from me being obnoxious and tap the gas pedal for that overrun exhaust pops, which requires me to plug in an OBD reader and clear the code. Up till now, my only solution was to disconnect/reconnect the battery.

After trying a bunch of OBD readers, I finally found one that I can use repeatedly without triggering this issue. Or, more specifically, actually trigger the issue, and then relieve the issue, without ever disconnecting the battery.

This is what I purchased.


The OBD reader has a standard OBDII/EOBD reader, which will read and clear engine codes. The real deal here is its ability to read the JLR service diagnostics. Let me explain:

Say I have an engine code that needs to clear. If I access the standard OBD menu to clear the code, the car's electronics would remain on, causing the battery drain issue. If I then run the JLR diagnostics test after the engine code is cleared, or even reconnect the OBD reader at a LATER point in time and then run the JLR diagnostics, the electronics would fully shut off after I unplug.

So my conclusion is that it has something to do with the JLR service diagnostics. I'm not clever enough to say what exactly, but finding this solution, and achieving the same solution repeatedly, is enough for me.

 

I use a similar product regularly, at least once every two weeks, to check for codes - iCarsoft LR 2.0 - and I have never had a single battery drain problem.

 

I got the iCarsoft LR 2.0 as well and though I've only used it a few times, I've never had the battery drain issue.

 

Same here. No problems.

 

I actually tried that as well, for some reason it didn't do the trick for me. Maybe it has another menu or diagnostic I have to access as well, but I know for sure is that if I try to do nothing but clear CELs, the drain comes on.

 

Got a Liberty Mutual insurance policy and they sent me a couple of OBD devices for monitoring driving activity. Had no problems for 4 months. Then I went away for a week and my car was dormant during that period. Came back to a dead battery. Falsely assumed it was just a 4 year old battery in combination with not being used and bought a new battery and had it installed. Left the very next day on another trip for a week and returned to a brand new dead battery. AAA comes and jumps it and gets it started. 3rd trip and same results. No more traveling but i'm working from home for a while so my wife stops using her car and starts using mine so that it charges up. After about a week of doing this she goes to use her car and her battery is dead. I then google OBD devices and batteries being drained and find many references to this. And specifically how not using. your car can accelerate the process.

 

If you do end up having a device that drains, or does not properly close the Dx session, you can try this simple Mod I created (or something similar). Makes the post OBDII Battery reboot very quick and easy.

LINK HERE

DC

 

I use a OBDLink MX+ adapter. It shuts down automatically so no battery drain. I sometimes like to monitor things real time so the adapter might stay plugged in for weeks at a time.
OBDLink MX+

It's more expensive than most but it does have a few extra features.
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You're addressing the wrong problem, DC - it's the permanently connected device that's doing the draining, it hasn't latched a module into "permanently on".

 

After extensive testing of amperage draw I have concluded otherwise and the OBD devices DO trigger latching of a mysterious module into "permanently on". Removal of the OBD device does not remove the battery drain of about 2.5 amps from this module on my 2016 R.

 

Seems to be a common issue - but not on every car. Any idea which module it is that's getting 'stuck' on?? That would be very interesting to know.

 

Hallelujah, my Greenville SC Jaguar dealer, Josh/Rafael, after becoming acquainted with my 2016 F-Type R battery drain problem have fully cured the parasitic battery drain by installing 4 updates to the vehicles RFA, GWM, IPC & BCM modules. They could not tell for sure which one solved the battery drain problem but guessed it was the software update to the IPC, [instrument panel ?]. Jaguar does not publish to the dealers what their software update were designed to do unlike what our phone app suppliers do. They also don't pay the dealer for doing software updates under these circumstances.
If you have read my earlier pains and posts, I had a persistent, seemingly unstoppable 2.5 amp battery drain after shut down which was only initiated by plugging in and removing either my BlueDriver OBDII reader or my Allstate Milewise dongles. So Jaguar has a software update which will cure this OBD initiated parasitic battery drain problem on the F-Type.

Thank you ScubaAddict for keeping us focused on this issue and likely for getting Jaguar to address the problem.... and to many others like the TheRock who have helped with interim solutions like a quick and easy battery negative disconnect and AntiGravity Battery replacement. I don't regret installing these two enhancements along the way. AMEN"

 

I hate to beat a dead horse but having some issues with the battery after my first state inspection. Last Saturday I got the car inspected and not so surprisingly on Sunday the battery was completely dead.

I removed the negative terminal for 5 minutes or so, reattached, and put a trickle charger on it for the week. Trickle charger seemed to show it was charging up fine enough but went to start it today (5 days on the charger) and battery still completely dead.

My questions are a) does the negative terminal need to be removed when there’s some battery life to reset the drain issue and b) is the reason I’m having this issue still because a 1A trickle charger just can’t keep up with the demand?

Im going to mess around with it more tomorrow. I’m sure I can jump it and get it going so maybe after a brisk drive I should disconnect the neg again and do another drive to charge it up?

Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you guys and gals for all your valuable knowledge sharing.

 

I'm no expert on this and I have never had a flat battery on any car but I suspect a 1A charger is not up to the job on a completely flattened battery.
It may even be that the battery is beyond saving no matter how many amps your charger has.

 

Any latched module should reset when it has no power. I'd side with Oz that the charger may not be able to do a proper job on a completely flat battery, or maybe your battery is getting tired. Did your charger indicate the battery was fully charged after 5 days?

 

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Just following up that I properly jumped the car and took it on a spirited drive to get the battery back up and charged and all seems good now. I just need to remember to remove the neg. terminal after an OBD from now on. As suspected above, I think the trickle charger just could not keep up with the demand.

 

Once you get the software update that will be unnecessary to disconnect etc. etc.

 

That sounds promising, do you have any references I could provide to a dealer here in Australia to help them locate these software updates?

 

Bumping this thread.

Does anyone have any more information about this mythical software update?

 

If you're willing to put an insurance company nanny in your car, you're driving the wrong car. (Cheers!)