I'm in the market for a 2015-2016 F Type R and there is a low-mileage one with CCB's for sale at a great price. I think CCB's are incredibly silly for the street, but if the car is a great price and clean, I'd consider it. The question is how the rotors and pads will last. I hear everything from "the life of the car" on the rotors, to as little as 5,000 miles if abused. With the INSANE parts cost of pads and rotors, I'm scared to not go with steely's. Do any of you have first-hand knowledge and experience on how long these rotors and pads should last on a car that wasn't abused (tracked)? Thanks.

 

Considering replacement parts cost, carbon brakes are very costly potential problem for someone looking at a used car. Even if you can afford the replacement cost, would the next owner shopping for a car further down depreciation curve be willing to take chances? If so, would you ever be able to sell the car?

 

Like everyone says, "It depends on how you drive". First question: Depends on how many miles are on the car and how worn are the brakes? You seem to be a relatively conservative driver (pre-F-Type). If that's the case (and the brakes are in great condition), CC's should last you a very long time. CC's also add more in resale value. I've gotten 50k-60k out of a set in other sports vehicles. Don't expect that with my SVR but still worth it for me.

 

i'm an ex 12 year pro race car driver (F-3000, Indy Lights, Formula Holden, etc.), but I don't track street cars and i don't drive hard on the street, so they could last me forever. Thing is though, CCB's could hurt me when I go to sell, like SinF said. They scare a lot of people off for obvious reasons (like me).

 

I don't know anything about CCB--you're a former pro racer and I am [current] pro commodity futures broker--but as the saying goes, "when in doubt, stay out"...or use stops.

On the other hand, between getting what you say is a great price--never mind you knowing how to drive--why fret about the next (possible) buyer? Maybe you will do what many of us here have determined, which is to say never sell our cars? And even if you already know you will be selling it in the future, one of my other favorite expressions is "Carpe Diem."

Good luck with whatever you decide.
RJ52

 

tnx man. I may just keep my 35,000 mile 2010 XKR and be done with it, haha.

 

Can an F type with the CCB's simply be replaced with standard steel brakes and standard rotors if the expense is out of the buyer's budget or desire when its time?

 

Posted in error...

 

Funny how this has come full circle over the years. I recall threads from when I first got my F type where owners were trying to upgrade their cars with iron brakes to CCB at great cost. Then it was iron brakes were ok for the street, but CCB's for the track. Now many threads are how CCB's are too expensive and will wear too fast for track use, that iron brakes make more sense due to lower replacement cost.

My 2 cents: On the F type they look way better than the factory garbage can lid rotors and truck style calipers, save a ton of weight, likely will perform better for longer (if you don't abuse them) and since you are buying used, you get a $10,000 upgrade for free. I say go for it.

 

I was concerned at first but decided to go for an SVR with CCB. Drive wonderfully, looks great. Can't talk to longevity but happy I made the choice!

 

Small world - I too am a commodity Futs broker, based in London - what products do you trade?
Just looking to buy my first FType, once I sell my current P&J

 

I’ll PM you so as to not take up any bandwidth here—although since this is your first post you might not be able to receive PM’s yet—but briefly I will say mostly energy and mostly hedging. I’ve been around a long time and have traded basically every commodity there is—yes, including many years ago, Pork Bellies. I still trade in various commodities for my spec accounts; you name it...I [can] trade it. It’s an exciting profession—every single day is a new experience—as you well know.

Two other quick points. One of “our” group, a current F-Type owner—and a great guy—just moved to London for a new great gig and I would be happy to introduce you. Quite the gregarious guy, he would tell you as would most of the people here the F-Type is simply a stunning and fantastic car.

Good luck!
RJ52

 

I think RickyJay is currently investigating tequila futures.

 

DJS is, as he most always is, right. (Don’t let that go to your head Dave.)

Analyzing any market requires deep fundamental knowledge of the market one is involved in. Fortunately my inherent knowledge of the Tequila market is quite strong; as is my preferred Tequila. Now my technical and psychological knowledge is another matter. Depends on how many shots I have. Take last night for example...

Well-played Dave. Regards to Scott.

 

Great to meet and say hello guys... Very much looking forward to my next purchase and joining in on the forum... Jut got to sell my current car - but need the sun to come out before anyone will buy I think....

 

While I was searching for my 2015, I watched many cars with CCM brakes sell so I don't think people are necessarily avoiding them. They didn't sell at a premium because of the brakes though.

I only considered cars with CCM brakes while looking and just bought one with them. It's a 2015 with 11,500 miles. The brakes look brand new. My buddy has a 2011 Corvette ZR1 that he tracks hard. He's gone through pads but the carbon rotors still look new. If the hat bolt spacing is the same as the ZR1, you might be able to use ZR1 rotors if you ever need replacements. The fronts are only a few mm smaller but the rears are the same size. And they are much less $$ than Jaguar's.

 

If the buyer knows how to differentiate, then they will look for glass-smooth CCB surfaces = car has not been tracked, and will stay away from rough, pitted surfaces = track days.

From experience with a C7 Z06 w/ Z07 package, wanted to stay away from the Z07 because of its CCBs. Ended up with it anyway since a car was nearby. When driven in any street setting and until the first DE (car's first, not mine) @ ~10K miles, the rotor surfaces were smooth and shiny as glass. Even after the factory bed-in procedure, it remained smooth. But after the second or third 25 min session, small pitting already formed on the front CCBs. This is with the add'l GM Z06 brake cooling kit and me limiting to ~120 on the back straight where 150 could easily be reached. Accumulated a total of less than 10 DE days, with progressively more pitting, before finally selling due to general quality issues with the C7 e.g. leaking MR shocks, body panel detachment, grinding xmission, GPS problems, etc. (before, not due to, DEs).

Subsequently considered an out of state used C63S with CCBs and used facetime to do a walkaround with the dealer. Asked to be shown the front wheels and even with the mediocre vid quality, it was easy to tell the CCBs were glass smooth / shiny. If they were matte and pitted, then I'd have passed on that alone. Hope this helps.

 

Krefly, I have also investigated the Corvette rotors and I think they would work fine if the bolt patter to the hat is the same. I see no reason why it would not. You can find them for $1,000 - 1,200 each. I love my CCB’s and would have not bought an F-Type without them.

 

I’d be real surprised if vettes had 108 mm bolt patterns.
EDIT: As I expected, the bolt pattern on a Corvette is 5×4.75 (120.7mm).
The 108mm bolt pattern is relatively uncommon. (Jaguar & BMW)

 

I was referring to the hat to rotor bolt spacing, not the wheel stud spacing. You would have to reuse the Jaguar hats on the Vette rotors. Even if the wheel stud spacing was the same, there's the issue of the hat offset on the fronts. The rear hats on the Vette are completely different. The parking brake shoes are inside the hats like an old style brake drum.