SOME of the 'racing-targeted' brake fluids come in different colors (the same formula, though)...the idea being that you can TELL when the old fluid is removed.

For street driving, there is no benefit. Even after one or two years, older brake fluid is dark enough to tell the difference.

 

Noted, will stick to OEM spec, it is probably gonna be a good while before my skill out do the car even in stock form.

Just found a loose hose clamp on the top intake tubes, out of the visible 4, 1 was loose enough I could rotate it with no effort, could this cause an isolated misfire?

 

I recommend using OEM fluid, as it works just fine. While better fluids exists, you have to research comparability with seals and very carefully flush the old fluid out.

You don't need to change disks and pads unless they are damaged, just grease the slides to make sure everything moving without binding. Unlike brake fluid, pads don't go bad with time, even when sitting outside.

 

Not clear where. In general, vacuum leaks can result in random misfires.

Do injector cleaner with PEA, then if you still have issues look elsewhere.

 

And believe me, that isn't fun when you're doing 130mph heading towards a chicane.

(not in my Jag but my previous car, which had uprated discs, uprated pads and fresh upgraded brake fluid - none of which was enough to stop the brakes getting so hot that they boiled the fluid)

 

visually they look fine, i haven’t took off the rims to inspect it but last time(2 months prior) i checked, the front had about 5mm left. Rotors are dirt cheap so might as well just do it at once.





this one, moves freely by hand, the one next to it and the ones on the passenger side don’t move.

I will grab a bottle of cleaner on the way home, is fuel cleaner same as injector cleaner? I think auto zone carry techron and Lucas.

 

Where or what is NYST please? I haven't heard of this track.

 

New York Safety Track
https://nyst.com/

Jefferson, NY, west of Albany.