Why did you not keep the Cayman GT4?

 

I understand the question Jaguny - it does seems unusual. But my circumstances were unique.

I ordered the Porsche GT4 to replace a very nice Cayman GTS I had. Basically, the cars were about the same price - so that seemed like a no-brainer. The GT4 was $89k.

I took Euro delivery of the GT4, had an awesome tour in Europe including two days on the Nurburgring. And, had some quality track time when I got it back home including Daytona and NOLA. Then, I decided to leave a company to start my own boat business and thought it was prudent to sell the GT4 while people were still paying MSRP for a used car (I had no idea nearly 2 years later they still fetch MSRP!). So, that put me on the sidelines while I focused on my new business.

Then, one day I was poking around a Jaguar showroom and asked if they had any good deals. The salesman said they had a new F-Type R that just came back from the body shop as it has been involved in a "track accident". Hmmm, I thought a new car that was damaged?? I smell a DEAL! They offered me an incredible number and I showed the car to my wife. It was love at first sight for her.

So, that is how I ended up going from a GT4 to the Jag.

I did not plan it, it just happened! It has opened my eyes to the other worlds that exist outside of Porsche and on the track, I believe it has made me a better driver learning how to adapt.

 

 

Nice laps Mostro!!! Keeping up with a Lotus and a S2000 on those twisties is not easy. You are very composed!

Regarding tires, I did burn through my front Michelin Cup 2s. Only had 4 track days on them and about 3,000 street miles. Hmmm let me do the math $900/4 = $225 per track day - ouch!!! The front left is beginning to show some cord on the edge. Barber's has a reputation to eat front left tires going up the hill at turn 3. The rears are still serviceable after 8 track days.

 

 

 

 

I don't see anything unusual.

 

 

 

+1

 

 

I am running the Michelin 4S on a V8s convertable. I have a couple of track days at Atlanta Motorsports Park on them. I find that a cold air pressure of 31/32 gives me 38/38 on the track which works well for me. I agree that the heavy nature of the car chews up the front outside edges of the tires, but otherwise the wear is not too bad. I have also noticed that the tire goes through some sort of heat cycle on the tread surface, but I am not sure that it is unusual or impacts the performance.

 

I have 4S. I usually start at 36 PSI, aiming at 38 once warm but depending on how hot the day is can end up with up to 42. Anything between 37 to 41 when warm is acceptable to me.

 

With a car that has a "street alignment", you are going to have some rollover just due to the camber setting (or lack thereof) unless the tire has a super stiff sidewall.

 

 

It won't "resolve" it, but it minimizes it. If it was that easy, you wouldn't see race cars running super camber settings. The only real way to resolve it is with alignment changes.

 

+1. But we are a bit limited in the amount of camber we can dial in on the F-Type. Lowering the suspension, though, does give us some more available negative camber.

 

Has anyone recorded what actual gains they get in negative camber from lowering?

Also, the reason that the tires gain PSI when hot is the moisture in the air in the tire expanding. More humid environments will see more change in PSI when run hard, where as dry places tend to change less. Don't concern yourself whether the cold psi is "too low", the only thing that matters is hitting your goal when hot!

 

In picking tire pressure and alignment settings, tarmac compound, tarmac temperature, air temperature and driving style play a major role. The right way to pick the appropriate tire pressure is to take 5-10 laps and quickly use a tire pyrometer on all 4 tires. Ideally the temperature needs to be the same across the section of the tire. If it's colder in the center, you are running low on pressure, too hot... drop pressure.

I prefer to use nitrogen in my tires on and off the track, they are much more thermally stable.

I start every race with 34psi all the way around and adjust.

This is by far the most accurate unit I ever used Longacre Tablet Memory Tire Pyrometer 50650