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I once again had the oil changed and checked the oil level after operating it awhile. Yep, in the "red" segment - overfilled again!
I think for a Best Practice, it will be necessary to ask the dealer to leave it a QUART or 2 LOW, then drive it until the oil gets heated, then check and add in 8 oz increments until it full.
If you are going to be tracking or do some spirited driving, I recommend you fill it to a level that is either 1 or 2 segments below full so to leave room for expansion which does occur on the track.
Removing Oil:
My tools for removing are a $15 Harbor Freight hand pump and a clear solo cup.
The smaller diameter tube is barely the correct size to wedge into the small oil tube you find under the oil fill cap. Note; the small black tube is actually too wide to go down into the oil. But it does make an air tight seal and allows for the pump to create a suction. Same result. In this instance, I removed 14 ounces of oil to get the car back to full segments. I will remove another 8 - 16 ounces before the next track day to allow for expansion.
Here are pictures of the oil removable tools and process...
The slightly more expensive suction pumps that have their own reservoir tanks have a hose that fits snugly down over the top of the suction tube that is under the oil cap. No need to stuff anything down thru the tube. Also allows the oil to flow much more quickly.
I finally got up to speed with the F-Type. Set new personal best time at NOLA my home circuit. Shaved 1 second off my best time in the Porsche GT4. Here are some action pics...
Last edited by Matttheboatman; 12-17-2017 at 10:11 PM.
Looking good! Are you using dedicated track tires or??
Michelin Cup 2s, 265 front / 305 rear. They performed extremely well on both track and street. The tires had a lot of grip on the track today with ambient air temps in the high 50s. My hot tire air pressures were 34 front/ 36 rears.
I drove home in heavy rain with puddles. Set the performance to "snow" - the AWD system on the Jag is simply amazing, super grip, and never once did the car want to go off course. I'd let my mother drive this car in the rain with the Cup2s.
Michelin Cup 2s, 265 front / 305 rear. They performed extremely well on both track and street. The tires had a lot of grip on the track today with ambient air temps in the high 50s. My hot tire air pressures were 34 front/ 36 rears.
I drove home in heavy rain with puddles. Set the performance to "snow" - the AWD system on the Jag is simply amazing, super grip, and never once did the car want to go off course. I'd let my mother drive this car in the rain with the Cup2s.
Thats good to know about the MPSC2's on the street and in the rain. Also, loving the yellow accents on the car!
I finally got up to speed with the F-Type. Set new personal best time at NOLA my home circuit. Shaved 1 second off my best time in the Porsche GT4. Here are some action pics...
Damn... you need to take that car off its stilts and you’ll gain another second or two.
The F-Type is a lot of fun on the track. I have adjusted my driving style to better suit the car. I have been employing the left foot braking technique which can go a long way in stabilizing the big cat with extended trail braking at corner entry and sometimes all the way to the apex.
My only disappointment is the various locations of the pedals. All are different lengths from the driver. My Throttle pedal is about 3" behind the Brake pedal, and the fixed foot rest is offset about 2" behind the Brake pedal. Ideally, these would be in the exact same length from the seat/driver. Perhaps this problem is unique to my car only, or just the automatics.
Ultimately, it makes it more difficult to allow my left foot to "hoover" over the brake since it requires a large bend of my left leg and a re-position of the left heal. I try to be smooth, but know that I would be smoother if the pedal was located at the exact same distance as the foot rest so I could easy go back and forth with my foot and leave my heal in a fixed location.
I did inquire if the brake pedal can be adjusted, and was told that it can not be adjusted.
Truthfully, I do know what would be better if someone is doing aftermarket that has been proven to stop better and still allow for street driveability.
Truthfully, I do know what would be better if someone is doing aftermarket that has been proven to stop better and still allow for street driveability.
I am looking for something too, I find the OEM well they work fine but lack a little confidence.
I'd like some better initial bite and more feel.
I am getting some 2PC made up for the car to save weight, should save around 40lbs unsprung with that.
I just finished driving PBIR again - nice evening but my end of life P Zero's were greaseballs. It was very difficult to get any throttle application after apexes. New tires soon.
Yes, other's have posted their experience with good pads. Some have spoken well of the Porterfield pads. I used to use CarboTech almost exclusively on any cars I drove both street and track. When my stock pads wear out, I'll likely investigate options but for the level track 'abuse' I give my car - so far the stock pads have not faded out on me (I'm not going to push a $100K+ car braking ultra late to gain the .1 or .2 seconds a lap!).
Getting the big cat ready for track day - next weekend at Barber Motorsports Park in Birmingham (AL) hosted by the Alabama Porsche club.
Today's task is to remove each wheel, give 'em a good inspection, and wax the calipers and wheels to make quick work of trackday rubber removal.
Noticed all my balance weights are gone. The tire tech said "nothing special needed", the wheels will not get hot enough to throw the weights - wrong. Will have him pre-scuff the location, and then I will cover them with aluminum tape this time.
If you are doing regular track days always use aluminum tape, as long as you clean and degrease the adhesion area and the cover with tape you’ll be fine, no need to prescuff really. But if it makes you feel better go ahead.
As for the tire tech, chances are he hasn’t been or regularly goes to a track, so use your own judgement. Just because someone does something as a day job does not make them an expert in it...
Congrats on getting the big cat out on the track. I’m watching your consumables (tires and brakes) because I might get mine out for a day or two this year.
I got the track bug a number of years ago. For a while a ran a Cayman R with mono ball suspension, carbon race seats, a half cage, etc. It was fantastic and still street driveable. But as I got faster and more serious about rubber and brakes, your start to realize that street cars and the track are not the best combination. Too many trade offs, though the Porsche was a good candidate.
Anyway I ended up going for a Lotus 211 as a dedicated track car that got trailered. Much better track experience and far safer as it went to the shop between track events to be reviewed etc. That Lotus had a proper FIA 6pt cage, race buckets, 6 pt harnesses, dry sumped motor, sequential transmission and 290 hp at the wheels and only 1680 lbs. That was a trip.
I couldn’t imagine taking a street car up to 150 mph+ without a proper harness, cage etc. I like the security of being strapped in and covered in scaffolding.
I hear you about the weight of the FType, I’m also guessing the car is harder to place on tight tracks that a Porsche. I will likely do at least one day this year, but I wont be serious. Its been a long time since I have been on a track in anything that wasn’t mid-engine.
Glad to see you are using it in anger!!!
Last edited by BlackPenquinn; 04-21-2018 at 09:12 PM.
I hear you about the weight of the FType, I’m also guessing the car is harder to place on tight tracks that a Porsche.
So true BlackPenquinn, particularly at Barbers' being a technical track, it does challenge the Jag.
But, the big cat continues to amaze me. I almost got it out of sorts between turns 13 and 14 (the tunnel hill), but the AWD system nanny smoothly pulled the car back in line. I have got to get this thing out on a skid pad to see if there is ANY CONDITION that will cause it to lose its composure!!!
My average times were in the 1:53- 1:55 range, best time 1:51.
This is about the same time as a Cayman S (981). The Cayman GT4s were about 7 seconds faster running in the 1:48 ish on average. Of course, track prep'ed cars with slicks are always faster.
Once again, the Jag continues to perform at peak without any issues to report. I'm impressed.
12-13-2017, 04:28 PM
