Underwhelmed by performance of VAP Pulley and Tune on V6 S
Anybody else have some performance number to share, mainly 0-60 or quarter mile times for their V6 with pulley and tune? I feel like my time of 4.3 seconds to 60 is only slightly improved from my stock V6 S at 4.5 seconds. The difference in power is slightly noticeable, but I was hoping to get near sub 4 second performance. I have brand new Michelin pilot sport 4 s tires all around. From what I have read on here, the pulley/tune combo should be a bit closer to stock V8 power.
Last edited by sparayno1; Dec 13, 2020 at 02:05 AM.
Popular Reply
Jan 22, 2021, 04:08 PM
The VAP tune seems to have mixed results. For everything you did to your car.. tune pulleys intake.. you should be getting more bang for your buck.
is there an option to actually take the car to a tuner?
because for me in my experience that’s One Hell of a Difference.
is there an option to actually take the car to a tuner?
because for me in my experience that’s One Hell of a Difference.
"actually take the car to a tuner"
What does this really mean? I'm going to dive into some background tuning industry stuff that will hopefully shed some light on it. When you 'take the car to a tuner' you're taking it to someone (presumably) with a dyno and who is a generalist - or possibly has some level of specialization in a brand or a few types of cars. Assuming that they are not a Jaguar specialist they are going to use something like Alientech, CMD, Autotuner, BFlash or Dimsport to read the OEM file off the car. It won't be HP Tuners.... or if it is run a mile, HP Tuners hasn't got close to enough maps defined to properly tune the car.
What actually comes off the car? A giant pile of hex.... just a giant file full of letters & numbers. So what is this tuner going to do to make sense of that? Compiling their own drivers would take years (it would take us years as well) so they are going to go to a 3rd party from whom they can purchase a 'tuning file' and possibly a Map Pack. If they are buying a Map Pack expect it to cost a couple thousand dollars for a decent one. A Map Pack is like a header file in normal software parlance. It has hex addressing & functions defined and should explain what scalars are being used and what values in a table correspond to. For example 16,400 might equal 55% of theoretical maximum torque driver demand.
Since we have been hex editing for the best part of a decade (Chris) I can tell you that almost any of the commercially available Map Packs are incomplete at best, and incorrect at worst. We've seen stuff where a table is labelled as ignition timing but actually corresponds to opening an EGR purge valve. Now, this is exactly the sort of thing we started out with in 2014 when we started tuning for this platform. What it takes to really figure it out is several years of familiarity with the ECU family, and enough testing and datalogging to correctly identify all the tables needed to properly tune the car. And believe me there are many - for example you cannot simply edit a torque driver demand table and expect to get power, you'll have to edit a whole domino effect of other tables to allow the air charge, command and allow additional boost pressure etc. So it takes a fair bit of money and a lot of time to effectively tune for a particular platform, if you're doing it yourself as a 'tuner.' And that's assuming you can actually log the PID's you need to see in order to confirm that what you're editing is correctly identified and is actually delivering the change you're commanding and not blocked by another table somewhere else. In VAP's case we actually had to spend several grand to develop our own proprietary datalogger for this platform so we could really see the data streams we needed to see.
The second option is that the tuner just buys a 'tuning file' from someone else. We've seen plenty of these. I won't name names but for example another well known tuning brand who's tune for an FType R simply had 2 torque tables bumped by 8% demand across the board and nothing else edited. And though it is a North American based brand the file was signed by a 'file service' in Germany.
So either you're going to pay thousands of dollars and spend at least a week to get a well researched, well developed file, or your 'tuner' will just be buying something off an exchange, in which case why not buy the software we have put all the work into developing, written thousands of times by a JLR Master Technician? I'm not saying that a good tuner with a dyno can't do a good job, but I would be very surprised if they can deliver what we can, without spending a lot more time & money.
Like I said, sometimes people are expecting it to feel different than it really does. The power gains are great, but it's also a 3800lb car.
__________________
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
VelocityAP Industries Ltd.
O: (1)250-485-5126
E: Stuart@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com

Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
VelocityAP Industries Ltd.
O: (1)250-485-5126
E: Stuart@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com

Last edited by Stuart@VelocityAP; Jan 22, 2021 at 04:10 PM.
Any more details. Year, Rear vs AWD (my guess is RWD but not sure). VF automatic I assume. Any more mods? Which device did you use to measure the times? Weather conditions make a significant difference, how close was that.
Tune and pulley is supposed to get you to ~450 HP and ~440 Torque up from ~380 and ~340 on V6S. Dyno figures have been posted by members of this forum so I think those are real. I would think that you get more than a 0.2 that level of increase. 0-60 is hard to replicate and not how most people drive regularly. 5-60 times much more of a reflection of real world driving conditions.
Tune and pulley is supposed to get you to ~450 HP and ~440 Torque up from ~380 and ~340 on V6S. Dyno figures have been posted by members of this forum so I think those are real. I would think that you get more than a 0.2 that level of increase. 0-60 is hard to replicate and not how most people drive regularly. 5-60 times much more of a reflection of real world driving conditions.
Any more details. Year, Rear vs AWD (my guess is RWD but not sure). VF automatic I assume. Any more mods? Which device did you use to measure the times? Weather conditions make a significant difference, how close was that.
Tune and pulley is supposed to get you to ~450 HP and ~440 Torque up from ~380 and ~340 on V6S. Dyno figures have been posted by members of this forum so I think those are real. I would think that you get more than a 0.2 that level of increase. 0-60 is hard to replicate and not how most people drive regularly. 5-60 times much more of a reflection of real world driving conditions.
Tune and pulley is supposed to get you to ~450 HP and ~440 Torque up from ~380 and ~340 on V6S. Dyno figures have been posted by members of this forum so I think those are real. I would think that you get more than a 0.2 that level of increase. 0-60 is hard to replicate and not how most people drive regularly. 5-60 times much more of a reflection of real world driving conditions.
I was expecting a bit more performance for the money, but honestly at this point I may just uninstall and keep the stock V6 S performance. They feel very similar on the butt dyno.
Anybody else have some performance number to share, mainly 0-60 or quarter mile times for their V6 with pulley and tune? I feel like my time of 4.3 seconds to 60 is only slightly improved from my stock V6 S at 4.5 seconds. The difference in power is slightly noticeable, but I was hoping to get near sub 4 second performance. I have brand new Michelin pilot sport 4 s tires all around. From what I have read on here, the pulley/tune combo should be a bit closer to stock V8 power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9ZL...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9ZL...ature=youtu.be
I must note that I really suck at launches . Every run I ever tried suffered from severe wheel spin despite using launch control in dynamic/sport with no paddles (never tried fooling with DSC). My 1/4 mile trap speed probably could have been better but I had to let off early because the place I did my testing was only about 3/8 of a mile perfectly flat straight and didn't want to run out of track to slow down. Never found a place flat and straight enough to try 1/2 mile runs.
Last edited by RGPV6S; Dec 13, 2020 at 07:34 AM.
I think I replied to you on one of the F Type Facebook groups, I’m happy with mine (V6S with pulley and Stage 2 VAP tune). I installed it last night and have only done one “Dragy” run and did 4.3 to 60. What I’ve noticed is that the traction light is on WAY more now under hard acceleration than before the tune. I just got back from a drive with my wife and she had to take motion sickness medicine so it must be be better😜
I doubt you can get super accurate times using camera and stop watch. I could easily imagine that the difference could be 0.4 sec or more simply due to inaccuracies.. The speedometer is skipping numbers so marking exact times very tough. Another issue is that some speed could be lost traction. When the V6S AWD came out I believe it had the same 0-60 as the RWD even though it had a significant weight gain (can't remember exact number, maybe 150 lbs?). AWD was said to put down power down more efficiently than RWD so similar times. With a bump in horsepower, loss of traction in RWD might be even more of an issue. You might get better times with a little less throttle after initial launch. Can you feel wheel spin?
50 deg F should be good for power but is cool enough that traction could be an issue for sport 4S. Make sure you have plenty of heat in them first.
If you want more accurate times, you could get a timing device. Racelogic is pricer than I need/want, but a lot of people like Draggy. I use
https://gps.dualav.com/explore-by-product/xgps160
It is not as simple as Draggy but more flexible and a bit cheaper when you find it on sale. It reads satellite data 10 times per sec, same as Draggy but not as frequent as Racelogic which is up to 20 times per sec.
Keep experimenting and then decide what you think. Good luck.
50 deg F should be good for power but is cool enough that traction could be an issue for sport 4S. Make sure you have plenty of heat in them first.
If you want more accurate times, you could get a timing device. Racelogic is pricer than I need/want, but a lot of people like Draggy. I use
https://gps.dualav.com/explore-by-product/xgps160
It is not as simple as Draggy but more flexible and a bit cheaper when you find it on sale. It reads satellite data 10 times per sec, same as Draggy but not as frequent as Racelogic which is up to 20 times per sec.
Keep experimenting and then decide what you think. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply! I have a 2015 RWD V6 S with VAP pulley, tune, modified OEM muffler, and Mina Gallery Intake. I used a camera and stop watch to time these runs. Weather condition is 50-55 degrees F for both runs, DSC off.
I was expecting a bit more performance for the money, but honestly at this point I may just uninstall and keep the stock V6 S performance. They feel very similar on the butt dyno.
I was expecting a bit more performance for the money, but honestly at this point I may just uninstall and keep the stock V6 S performance. They feel very similar on the butt dyno.
I also have a MY2015 V6S RWD.
I went from stock (380 PS) to tune only (416 PS) then pulley and tune (450+ PS) and the differences were yuuuuge on the butt dyno. Tune only not so much but pulley and tune wow! I haven't done any 0-60 timed tests but it sure feels a helluva lot quicker than stock, my guesstimate is 4.0 sec vs 4.5 sec.
Also the main improvements are in "torque under the line" - throttle response - and the way it now winds out at the top end without dying at 6,500 RPM like it did when stock, and not so much 0-60 which is very much dependant on traction off the line and wheelspin.
Maybe just maybe your modified muffler is robbing you of power and/or torque?
Trending Topics
Something must be wrong.
I also have a MY2015 V6S RWD.
I went from stock (380 PS) to tune only (416 PS) then pulley and tune (450+ PS) and the differences were yuuuuge on the butt dyno. Tune only not so much but pulley and tune wow! I haven't done any 0-60 timed tests but it sure feels a helluva lot quicker than stock, my guesstimate is 4.0 sec vs 4.5 sec.
Also the main improvements are in "torque under the line" - throttle response - and the way it now winds out at the top end without dying at 6,500 RPM like it did when stock, and not so much 0-60 which is very much dependant on traction off the line and wheelspin.
Maybe just maybe your modified muffler is robbing you of power and/or torque?
I also have a MY2015 V6S RWD.
I went from stock (380 PS) to tune only (416 PS) then pulley and tune (450+ PS) and the differences were yuuuuge on the butt dyno. Tune only not so much but pulley and tune wow! I haven't done any 0-60 timed tests but it sure feels a helluva lot quicker than stock, my guesstimate is 4.0 sec vs 4.5 sec.
Also the main improvements are in "torque under the line" - throttle response - and the way it now winds out at the top end without dying at 6,500 RPM like it did when stock, and not so much 0-60 which is very much dependant on traction off the line and wheelspin.
Maybe just maybe your modified muffler is robbing you of power and/or torque?
I do feel the high rpm push around 6500 rpm like you said. I may try the VAP transmission tune to increase the max RPMs since it seems to pull harder up high.
I doubt you can get super accurate times using camera and stop watch. I could easily imagine that the difference could be 0.4 sec or more simply due to inaccuracies.. The speedometer is skipping numbers so marking exact times very tough. Another issue is that some speed could be lost traction. When the V6S AWD came out I believe it had the same 0-60 as the RWD even though it had a significant weight gain (can't remember exact number, maybe 150 lbs?). AWD was said to put down power down more efficiently than RWD so similar times. With a bump in horsepower, loss of traction in RWD might be even more of an issue. You might get better times with a little less throttle after initial launch. Can you feel wheel spin?
50 deg F should be good for power but is cool enough that traction could be an issue for sport 4S. Make sure you have plenty of heat in them first.
If you want more accurate times, you could get a timing device. Racelogic is pricer than I need/want, but a lot of people like Draggy. I use
https://gps.dualav.com/explore-by-product/xgps160
It is not as simple as Draggy but more flexible and a bit cheaper when you find it on sale. It reads satellite data 10 times per sec, same as Draggy but not as frequent as Racelogic which is up to 20 times per sec.
Keep experimenting and then decide what you think. Good luck.
50 deg F should be good for power but is cool enough that traction could be an issue for sport 4S. Make sure you have plenty of heat in them first.
If you want more accurate times, you could get a timing device. Racelogic is pricer than I need/want, but a lot of people like Draggy. I use
https://gps.dualav.com/explore-by-product/xgps160
It is not as simple as Draggy but more flexible and a bit cheaper when you find it on sale. It reads satellite data 10 times per sec, same as Draggy but not as frequent as Racelogic which is up to 20 times per sec.
Keep experimenting and then decide what you think. Good luck.
I will look into getting a dragy for more accurate times. Thank you for the thorough response!
[QUOTE=Cirving;2327816]I think I replied to you on one of the F Type Facebook groups, I’m happy with mine (V6S with pulley and Stage 2 VAP tune). I installed it last night and have only done one “Dragy” run and did 4.3 to 60. What I’ve noticed is that the traction light is on WAY more now under hard acceleration than before the tune. I just got back from a drive with my wife and she had to take motion sickness medicine so it must be be better😜[/QUOTE
You’re right about the traction light going on more often and also the wife seems to notice the power increase more than me 😆
You’re right about the traction light going on more often and also the wife seems to notice the power increase more than me 😆
You may be right. The decreased back pressure could have an effect on low down torque coupled with the X pipe.
I do feel the high rpm push around 6500 rpm like you said. I may try the VAP transmission tune to increase the max RPMs since it seems to pull harder up high.
I do feel the high rpm push around 6500 rpm like you said. I may try the VAP transmission tune to increase the max RPMs since it seems to pull harder up high.
You didn't say that before!
I have it on good authority (Cambo) that putting an X-pipe on the V6 is bad for power, the V6 exhaust pulses are wrong, unlike the V8 where it works.
That is why the stock V6 does not have an X-pipe but the stock V8 does.
I used a Dragy to record 0-60, 1/8 and 1/4 mile times with my RWD V6S Vert (pulley and VAP tune). Best time was 4.34 seconds (4.11 with 1 ft rollout). Best 1/8 mile was 8.26 seconds with trap speed of 90.46mph. Best 1/4 mile was 12.72 seconds with trap speed of 103.3mph. All are valid results according to Dragy. Got these results after about 15 runs over the course of a month. Didn't have the Dragy pre tune and pulley so no before and after results to share. All runs were done on sunny days at about 80F at DA of about 2000ft
I must note that I really suck at launches . Every run I ever tried suffered from severe wheel spin despite using launch control in dynamic/sport with no paddles (never tried fooling with DSC). My 1/4 mile trap speed probably could have been better but I had to let off early because the place I did my testing was only about 3/8 of a mile perfectly flat straight and didn't want to run out of track to slow down. Never found a place flat and straight enough to try 1/2 mile runs.
I must note that I really suck at launches . Every run I ever tried suffered from severe wheel spin despite using launch control in dynamic/sport with no paddles (never tried fooling with DSC). My 1/4 mile trap speed probably could have been better but I had to let off early because the place I did my testing was only about 3/8 of a mile perfectly flat straight and didn't want to run out of track to slow down. Never found a place flat and straight enough to try 1/2 mile runs.
I need to get a dragy for some more accurate data.
I used a Dragy to record 0-60, 1/8 and 1/4 mile times with my RWD V6S Vert (pulley and VAP tune). Best time was 4.34 seconds (4.11 with 1 ft rollout). Best 1/8 mile was 8.26 seconds with trap speed of 90.46mph. Best 1/4 mile was 12.72 seconds with trap speed of 103.3mph. All are valid results according to Dragy. Got these results after about 15 runs over the course of a month. Didn't have the Dragy pre tune and pulley so no before and after results to share. All runs were done on sunny days at about 80F at DA of about 2000ft
I must note that I really suck at launches . Every run I ever tried suffered from severe wheel spin despite using launch control in dynamic/sport with no paddles (never tried fooling with DSC). My 1/4 mile trap speed probably could have been better but I had to let off early because the place I did my testing was only about 3/8 of a mile perfectly flat straight and didn't want to run out of track to slow down. Never found a place flat and straight enough to try 1/2 mile runs.
I must note that I really suck at launches . Every run I ever tried suffered from severe wheel spin despite using launch control in dynamic/sport with no paddles (never tried fooling with DSC). My 1/4 mile trap speed probably could have been better but I had to let off early because the place I did my testing was only about 3/8 of a mile perfectly flat straight and didn't want to run out of track to slow down. Never found a place flat and straight enough to try 1/2 mile runs.
Last edited by Cirving; Dec 13, 2020 at 04:58 AM.
I have little interest in drag racing so can't contribute any timing. I also expect that I could roast the clutch in short order trying to get a good 0-30 time (6MT problems). From what I follow, I think you'd see more improvement in trap speed than in ET. Again, I ain't no drag racer.
The tune and pulley really shine on the road. We have some delightfully twisty roads in my neck of the woods, although I have not been out on them in quite a while
I don't have anything recorded, but the 30-80 performance is much more lively.
The tune and pulley really shine on the road. We have some delightfully twisty roads in my neck of the woods, although I have not been out on them in quite a while

I don't have anything recorded, but the 30-80 performance is much more lively.
Anybody else have some performance number to share, mainly 0-60 or quarter mile times for their V6 with pulley and tune? I feel like my time of 4.3 seconds to 60 is only slightly improved from my stock V6 S at 4.5 seconds. The difference in power is slightly noticeable, but I was hoping to get near sub 4 second performance. I have brand new Michelin pilot sport 4 s tires all around. From what I have read on here, the pulley/tune combo should be a bit closer to stock V8 power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9ZL...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9ZL...ature=youtu.be
0-60's are hard to gauge by and have lots of variability based on the launch, temps, spinning, etc...These are pretty heavy cars too, so a bit hard to get them going, and thus the need for more HP. I have tried that a bunch, and I am all over the place with time. As others have suggested, maybe try different benchmarks.
Good luck,
DC
Perhaps part of the issue is your expectation/understanding may have been overstated. A stock R is 550 BHP and even an S V8 was 495 BHP. Torque is also 502 Lb/Ft and 461 LB/FT respectively. So at the lowest end, you are still down ~45 BHP and ~21 LB/FT after your tune and pulley, and at the high end you are ~100 HP and over 60 LB/FT down. That is certainly not trivial. Seems like it is performing about where others in a similar situation are, so appears the tune and pulley are at the level they should be, and perhaps you were just expecting more?
0-60's are hard to gauge by and have lots of variability based on the launch, temps, spinning, etc...These are pretty heavy cars too, so a bit hard to get them going, and thus the need for more HP. I have tried that a bunch, and I am all over the place with time. As others have suggested, maybe try different benchmarks.
Good luck,
DC
0-60's are hard to gauge by and have lots of variability based on the launch, temps, spinning, etc...These are pretty heavy cars too, so a bit hard to get them going, and thus the need for more HP. I have tried that a bunch, and I am all over the place with time. As others have suggested, maybe try different benchmarks.
Good luck,
DC
I noticed from the video that you are using 91 octane fuel. We have a different rating here, but my performance guys told me to run it on 98 octane only with the tune (which is equivalent to your 93, maybe a little better). But watching the video I think it doesnt seem to be revving as freely as mine does over 50kph (say 30mph) when I have really give it the beans.
I noticed from the video that you are using 91 octane fuel. We have a different rating here, but my performance guys told me to run it on 98 octane only with the tune (which is equivalent to your 93, maybe a little better). But watching the video I think it doesnt seem to be revving as freely as mine does over 50kph (say 30mph) when I have really give it the beans.
If VAP lets you have a both a 93 and 91 tune that is switchable I would advise keeping a 93 tune and some octane booster for instances where you want to run max power through the car. Track day, weekend twisties, etc.
I really hate how CA is so lacking in fuel. 91 AKI max and 15% Ethanol. Yuck. There's a station about 15-20 minutes from me (Sunol Super Stop) that offers up to 101 race fuel at a significant premium, but the prospect of relying on one station sounds pretty bad.
I really hate how CA is so lacking in fuel. 91 AKI max and 15% Ethanol. Yuck. There's a station about 15-20 minutes from me (Sunol Super Stop) that offers up to 101 race fuel at a significant premium, but the prospect of relying on one station sounds pretty bad.







