I had no battery problems after installing my VAP tune. Just the check engine light that went out after 5 restarts.

 

Ah ok thanks.

 

I have found this to be the case on my car. It is not clear whether it has to be done on all cars. If your hazard light button remains lit for more than 10 minutes after the car is shut down, you will need to do the battery disconnect.

 

Got it thanks!

 

Right. What unhinged said. You only have to do the battery disconnect if your car has the issue of not completely shutting down after you've used the ODB port.

 

Yes the same for me. I have to return to oem before I can guarantee a tune will take. It's quite weird to me as well.

 

I have a 2016 F Type S AWD and have done the Tune and we deleted my CAT's as well as bumped the exhaust up to 2.5" piping with new mufflers.

I do not have dyno figures as I am waiting to do the pulley for these but the butt dyno can tell a difference.

Prior to this doing a hard launch was a piece of cake with TC still enabled, now it kicks in.

I have to kill traction control fully (not track mode) and when launching at 2500RPM it will still break the tires loose just a tad.

 

Odd... I flashed from one tune to the next yesterday and it was fine.

 

Unless there is a dramatic difference in the two non-OEM tune files, You might be unaware of the issue.

 

The Vtech tool confirms the right tune is in the vehicle, and we remapped the throttle pedal, which is quite noticeable. I'm confident the flash was successful.

 

Throttle mapping seems to be a critical consideration after massive power increases are implemented. Trying to dial down the front end sensitivity on mine as well.

 

Chris did not mention that. How did you come about that bit of info?

VAP wrote a revised tune file in order to squeeze more low end torque, as the dyno results from the tune showed no torque gains from stock. I loaded the new tune, but have not noticed any difference. I am waiting for the OBD2 Link Sx to arrive so I can get some data using their OBDWiz software (I would welcome any comments regarding that scanner...it was super cheap, so I figured I would take a chance on it).

 

One of the times we were playing with tunes on the dyno, we had made a change to a tune that should have immediately registered some parameter changes, which it did not. Flashing back to OEM and then flashing the new tune provided the expected results. I then had the same issue occur while I was playing with alternate tunes to smooth out the throttle response. Nothing scientific about this. Just empirical evidence.


Go ahead and revert to OEM before putting on your new tune. It certainly won't hurt to try.

 

Hello all! Newbie here. I am going to pick up my first Jag tomorrow, which is a 2014 F Type S. I a Z06, IS350 and a 380hp 335is and I really, really hope this one is more fun to drive than all of them.

I am going to do the tune after I pick up the car, but I will do the crank pulley a little later. Will I have to buy a second tune after putting on the crank pulley?? I hope not. lol

 

Welcome...if you do the tune from VAP they have stated that the tune already is calibrated to accomodate the increased boost of the larger crank pulley.

 

Correct. And we don't charge for retunes either.

 

That's great news! Thanks for the help Cherry_560sel & Stuart! And, I'll get in touch with you to start the process of the tune, Stuart. Thanks!

 

After some off-line dialogue with Stuart (while he's in Asia!), I'm going to go with their tune. Since I will be doing some spirited driving at the local race track soon, I am trying to understand all the different driving modes (std automatic, "S", with paddles, tracdsc, etc). I have one question for all - how do we keep the car from downshifting??!! I want to know for a couple of reasons - the first of which is exiting from a turn at high g's - I don't want the resultant upset in the cars stability. The 2nd reason is that I want the dyno run to pull from down low if possible. The local AWD dyno here is limited to 150 mph, so we won't be in top gear. But in my limited experiments, it always wants to downshift. Any clues here as to how to force the car to stay in a given gear at lower RPM? thanks to all for this informative forum.

 

When in 'S', after you've used the paddles, it should only downshift:
1. If the RPMs drop low enough that it needs to downshift to avoid stalling;
2. If you put the pedal down to the 'kickdown' detent.

 

As was noted, don't hit the kickdown switch and you should be fine. Also, I'll double check but I think 4th gear is the closest to 1:1, you don't want to be in top gear anyway.