I've done some sleuthing around, and so far the majority says they've been able to pass the ECU sniff test by flashing back to stock. Keep in mind different cars have different ways of doing it, from piggybacking to full ECU rewrites, but at least statistically that's what I've been reading thus far. The piggyback crews obviously have a much easier go of it, but those that flashed the ECU mostly claims they have been able to pass as well.

We won't know for sure until VAP comes back with some updates or when the time comes for some of the 2014 guys to get smogged in CA...but wasn't the F-Type released in 2013? No one from that year needed to bother with this scenario?

 

Yes, they started hitting the states in April-May of 2013. I had a long wait ‘til June for mine to be delivered.

 

Going back to a traditional tuning question and away from CA drama (feeling your pain). 2016 V6S with crank pulley and tune installed early summer. Love the power but the new shove of torque is most impressive. It really is a remarkable change. However, I find the throttle response "twitchy". Very subtle changes throttle pedal cause dramatic changes in power. Around 4000 RPM, it feels like pedal at 40% and I get 50% power. Pedal at 45% and I get 90% power (clearly estimating here but I think you'll know what I mean). I have seen others make similar comments. I have also seen that there are other versions of the tune that can change this issue. My question is what is everyone's experiences with other tunes? Do other tunes make the power more progressive but sacrifice over all torque/power? It is possible that to make the power more progressive, total power/torque need to be reduced,

Thanks for any input.

 

If memory serves, there was a message about this from VAP, probably in this very thread. I had a similar feeling with the throttle response and requested a modified file to address it. It worked.

 

Believe I answered this question fairly in-depth in this thread;

Providing the emissions control devices have NOT been removed/altered, our files have been passing a "sniff" test for years. If someone replaced the catalysts to 200 cells or similar, flashing our file or even the stock file is NOT going to pass a sniff test.

If the emissions test is just OBD hookup for monitor check; VAP files with all emissions controlled devices installed and operational 100%, should pass in the JLR petrol products providing the CVN is not required to match OEM CVN. If the JLR catalysts have failed or the JLR oem units are no longer present, it's going to fail if all monitors need to be showing Completed/Passed status. If your region allows for 1 monitor to fail and that is used for the catalysts monitor showing Incomplete/Not Ready, then you should be able to pass providing the CVN is not of any requirement to match OEM.

 

I can verify a Stage 1 tune will pass MA emissions without issue, testing with all emissions control hardware in place. MA is a CARB state like CA.

 

But if I read your reply correctly, if the new sniffer test actually matches the CVN against a database of software tunes, you're unsure if flashing back to stock map will pass...or at least that's how I interpreted it. Do correct me if I'm wrong.

 

A "sniffer test" is not a CVN check....

Some regions have a sniffer test (tail-pipe-test) to make sure the harmful byproducts are within spec, they may also require the OBD monitors to be completed and be shown as not incomplete or not ready, and at this time these regions do not require a CVN check like California..etc. Our file with all the OEM emissions parts in place, will pass a sniffer test and an OBD readiness.

As for the CVN verification; being honest, we do not plan on configuring a way to pass a CVN check after tuned. If the flash tool companies develop that feature, it's definitely an option we can provide to our clients with a disclaimer, but it's out of our hands to control how the tool flashes, and what the tool will imprint as a fingerprint, and IF the file will pass a CVN if flashed back stock.

As for flashing stock and a CVN matching; if an ecu is flashed back stock, regardless of the CVN matching, the ecu WILL store a P167F, which indicates the ecu is currently tuned -or- had been tuned at some-point-in-time by a device which was not OEM approved. The only way around, is to flash a mod file OR replace the ecu with a new unit from JLR parts.

With that said, here's a good question: What would be the CARB ref rule if a P167F was stored but the CVN matched the stock file?

 

Ah I get what you're referring to now...at some point people called it a "ecu sniffer" test, but I guess that's a bit of a misnomer.

The P167F I believe isn't something the smog checks would look for, as it's more like a manufacturer diagnostic code, like a voltage fault with the secondary battery or something along those lines. The check is specifically for the CVN, from what I read. It *should* pass as long as the CVN matches. I would love to know if the flash tool changes the CVN back to stock value if the stock map is flashed though. That's my biggest unknown.

 

I'm here because I'm interested in tuning my Range Rover Sport (tds) (diesel) and VAP referred me to this thread.

Lots of talk about CA emissions here, but I'm not in CA and my vehicle isn't a Jag... anyone here use this tune on a vehicle like mine? Would love to hear some success stories!

 

Ok a bit of a stupid question here -- the software updates that JLR can deploy via wifi/SIM (SOTA) do not affect the VAP tune, right? Meaning, if I get a notification of a software update, it's ok to accept these even with the VelocityAP tune installed, correct?

 

Which module is being requested to update via SOTA?

 

It seems to be for the InControl Touch Pro Software (part of the infotainment master controller). The last version of this update (can't find the list of what's in the new release) can be found here:

https://www.jaguarownersclub.com/for...616-available/

 

Makes sense, I'd find it odd if SOTA every even attempted to update the engine or transmission ECU.

The only module that can mess up your flash device, is if the dealer flashes the engine ecu...InTouch or anything with telematics has no relation to the engine ecu file. You should be fine...

 

Some of you have probably noticed already and I think some have even ordered it, but we have now officially released our new 2-piece upper pulley option, also including the Grip-Tec coating. There are a few advantages to this setup - aside from the Griptec surface treatment which helps combat belt slippage as the belt wears.

The 2-piece design also helps with installation. The JLR upper pulley calls for a LOT of interference between the shaft & pulley to stay on. In the past we even had shops who determined that our pulley had too much interference and milled a couple thou out of the center bore, only to have the pulley come flying off. So this makes it challenging to install as it needs to be properly heated to a minimum temperature and not just in the contact surface but evenly throughout in order to expand fully. By using a 2-piece design, the amount of material that needs heating is greatly reduced and this makes the process much quicker, and easier to get the required heat throughout the entirety of the material.

This updated pulley is now offered in place of our previous 1-piece version on it's own, and also as part of our pulley & tuning packages, and is currently discounted as part of our Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale.

https://www.velocityap.com/product/j...-upper-pulley/

 

 

I did not read all 63 pages of this thread, so if the answer to my question is buried somewhere within, I apologize. I've owned several S/C cars and have heard numerous times that a pulley swap is one way to make the car accelerate quicker. In posting #1255 (just a couple above my posting), is a very interesting posting from Velocity A/P about their new 2 piece upper pulley, which to me looks the way to go if I want a pulley swap....but that assumes you don't need a retuned engine. Then the very next posting, #1256, is a YouTube posting regarding the potential issues with a pulley swap and belt slippage....it seems like this gentleman is indicating a lower pulley swap is the way to go if you're venturing into the pulley swap world.
I have a brand new 2021 F type R and it currently is mothballed due to winter crap weather. It has 2000 miles on the odometer. I believe there's a lot of knowledgeable owners that know my car and I'm wondering if any of them (you) could tell me if changing out just the upper pulley (instead of the lower pulley) is worthwhile, would I notice any improvement (quicker, snappier acceleration), is an engine retune required and is this a dangerous move on a new car that still has a boat load of warranty remaining. Thanks for any help!

 

A couple of things. Changing the pulleys to increase the supercharger drive rate won't do very much of anything unless it's accompanied by a concurrent ECU Tune. The reason is that although the blower is capable of generating more boost, it also has an internal bypass valve that's controlled by the ECU and it will open to vent excess boost beyond what's commanded by the ECU.

The information referenced in that video is correct, in that it is preferable to change the crank pulley FIRST, or if you are only doing one pulley. We've been recommending that for years. However, we are also fitting the largest crank pulley possible, so if you want to go beyond that you have to look at the supercharger pulley. Yes, the upper pulley going smaller reduces the surface area that's in contact with the pulley. Our original dual pulley setup has worked well for in excess of 1000 customers, but as mentioned we start to see marginal slip under hard use and high load conditions and as the belt wears. This new 2-piece pulley is an evolution that combats slip and is an improvement on our prior design. There are other applications like Audi that are running higher ratios and smaller upper pulleys than this, but the belt tensioner design is also different.

You can run our dual pulley setup no problem, with our new pulley. However, if you want to go with one pulley and not both I'd still recommend the crank pulley.

 

Stuart...thank you very much for the complete explanation. I'd dearly love to tweak the ECU, I've done it several times with other cars I've owned, always loved the difference and never experienced any problems. At 74 years old, I don't "hotrod" my cars, but I love the strength of a high horsepower machine! I'm concerned or nervous about doing anything with the ECU for fear of having an engine problem (not necessarily at all associated with the tweaked ECU) and having the dealership cop out and say the system's been altered, so no warranty. As I mentioned previously, it is a 2021 R model with only 2000 miles on it and that little voice in my head says don't fool with any of the software, the cars still theoretically in it's break in period. I've read enough about your organization to believe you are a quality house and can not take any responsibility on an engine problem down the "warranty period" road if a dealer refuses to honor the warranty. Again, thank you for taking the time to respond as completely as you did.

 

I really wish I could financially justify doing this right now. I've still got a couple years left on my CPO warranty and told myself I wouldn't do any engine tuning until it was up. However, I've now had my F-Type for about a year and a half and did a bunch of rallies, a few days at the drag strip, and a track day this year and definitely got the itch for "mo powah babeh!" However, even with the current sale going on, going all in with the pulley swap, engine tune, tcm tune, and sport cats (I understand the VAP tune eats the stock cats), is $4800 + tax before install costs. Ah well, maybe next year.