Again, sorry I wasn't clear in my original post. I included all the data so people would knew which tune(s) I had. It's not the pops and bangs that are concerning, but the time it takes to change gears allowing so many pops and bangs to occur. Some shifts have taken over 1 second when the car is shifting on its own under near full throttle (in the 70s MPH range). When I use the paddles, the shifts are super quick. When allowing the shifts to occur on their own in Dynamic and S (not using the paddles), the shifts above 50 MPH are noticeably slower. I don't know if it is because the ECU is creating so many pops and bangs (slowing the shifts) or the TCU is slower. I would like it to shifts to be as fast when using both the paddles and when shifting on its own.

I have tried to shift at similar RPM with both paddles as when shifting on its own while comparing the two but can't be certain. I include these details because I assume that throttle input and RPM could affect shift times.

FYI, I originally had the crank pulley and tune. I then added, the TCU along with a new ECU (checking the box of pops and bangs) as my frame of reference.

Thanks,
Ed

 

OK - question to those of you who have purchased the TCU tune AND you have a 5.0 AWD... Would you do it again?

I currently have a '16 AWD with the crank pulley and ECU tune. I've been on the fence for a while for the TCU tune (frugal engineer), but ofttimes I give my self a Xmas gift . I note that the original 200 RMP 'bump' is now more like a 500 RPM bump? Is that correct? I'm generally not watching my tach when the car shifts, but I believe I'm still in the 6500 shift club. I understand folks to generally state a 0.2 sec improvement in the 1/4 mile times (irrespective of ECU pully tune or not - yes?).

Please advise if you had it to do over, would you still?
The other question I have is what is a MPV12? is this the same device I got when I purchased my pulley and ECU in Aug of 2019?

Thanks in advance

 

I'm in the exact same boat (er...car?) as you, wavering on pulling the trigger on the TCU tune for my Stg 2 '16 R also. Would love to hear other TCU-tuned R AWD owners feedback. The HP Tuners MPVI2 is a different device than the obdII cable that came with the ECU tune, and is necessary to connect to the TCU. You need the MPVI2 device, the tune, and 2 of HP Tuners 'credits' that enable the device to connect to (and then locked to) your TCU. If you borrow someone's MPVI2 (or newer MPVI3), then you could purchase the tune-only option, whose price I believe also includes the 2 HP Tuners credits.

 

So I go to the VAP website to buy something and I get this big "sale" splash screen and it won't let me go anywhere else...so it sort of shuts down the whole site for me....anyone else?

 

On my PC the sale pop-up (square shaped) has a little X (ie close button) in the top right corner, click on the X and you are good to go.
Maybe you just can't see this X on whatever device you are using so just click in the top right corner of the pop-up square anyway and see how you go.

 

Thanks. I was my pc and chrome....current chrome. On the new Microsoft browser it was fine. Go figure...scale in chrome is fine everywhere else.

Thanks!

 

First question answered I think....Different flash device (HP Tuner for TCU vs Powergate 3- or whatever they are using now for ECU).

I have had the TCU Tune on mine for quite a while. It does make shifts quicker and the shift points are much better aligned as well as the 200 RPM bump up top.

Will you notice a difference? Yes, I would say definitely. Will it be a huge gain/performance boost? Likely not. Nothing like getting an ECU tune or other mods. Whether or not it is worth it is very subjective. I pretty much get anything that has any possibility of any gain Others may want a cost/benefit threshold to be met.

So honestly, I think you will notice faster shifts when you hit the paddles (INSTANT)...And you will notice it shifts at a more appropriate RPM than before...and you get the 200 RPM top end bump. Is it worth the cost?? That is a tough one, and again, very subjective.

Hope that helps some.

DC

 

Thanks 'Rock'. Good a motional response .

On an unrelated (well, kinda related) I believe I read that your 'transfer case' toasted after loading the tune, is that correct? I'm not trying to imply a correlation - just wondering if you got your beast fixed back up and what the damage cost may have been if you are so willing to share. And to be clear, my recollection is that you described you toasted your 'transfer case' (not transmission?). What was the final outcome/resolution/cost (should you care to share here or via private missive).

 

DC please feel free to correct me if my recollection is incorrect, but I believe the issue was caused by a heat shield that was wound up rubbing against the driveshaft.

 

Thanks for sharing. I am ordering the TCU tune no matter, but was curious as to whether the TCU tune maintains the 'burps' on upshifts. More immediate downshifts is what sold me on pulling the trigger.

 

This was the post I was referring to above...

 

Originally Posted by Therock88 View Post
Hi...

I am not Doug...But it looks like you are referring to my post above.

After a lot of testing at the dealership, this issue simply turned out to be a heat shield that came loose and was touching the driveshaft ...and the exhaust pipe heating/swelling just enough to barely touch a crossmember. Very hard to track down, and the two items together made a horrible sound. All fixed now...No more noises...No issue with TC or Differentials and I AM running the TCU with no issues.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good to hear. Thanks

 

Does anyone know if the TCU tune will change the standard function on my 2016 F Type R to be able to automatically launch in 1st gear when in Sport mode, without having to downshift using the paddles? In stock form, it appears the car normally launches in 2nd gear and the only way to achieve a 1st gear launch is to shift into first using the paddles, which means having to use paddles for subsequent upshifts. I would like to be able to launch in 1st gear at the drag strip and let the TCU handle the upshifts for the rest of the pass. I understand that the gearbox will downshift to first when you hit WOT on launch, but seems like there must be some time lost in that process vs starting in 1st gear.

 

My 2016 launches in 1st gear in either shift position - normal or sport. I have a pulley and ECU tune from VAP, however I believe it has always performed that way.

 

Are you sure? I thought they all launched in 2nd unless you manually downshift.

 

My 16R also always starts in 1st gear from a stop, whether D or S, when in full auto mode. It does however very quickly upshift to 2nd (even in Dynamic) unless aggressive throttle is applied.

its in manual shift mode when it will start in 2nd from a stop, and requires manually downshifting to 1st, every time you come to a stop, if you want it start from 1st.

 

Certain.

If, however you have moved slightly and perhaps gotten up to a slow speed, I've noted it may have gone to 2nd and will downshift. From a stop, however - always 1st.

 

“…however you have moved slightly and perhaps gotten up to a slow speed, I've noted it may have gone to 2nd…”.

The very early upshift to 2nd (unless aggressive throttle maintained) is one trait I wish were different.

 

Looks like it was already answered/covered correctly. Yes, my issue turned out to be totally unrelated to the TCU tune, or tranny/diff at all. A heat shield and cross member were both touching the front drive shaft and exhaust respectively, making the horrible noises...but totally harmless and easily fixed.

DC

 

Hi @Therock88 , you mentioned earlier the tcu tune improves the shift points; are upshifts occurring at higher rpm’s than stock, given the same conditions, even in part throttle/ low loads? So the tune holds gears longer?