I know there are a ton of threads on here concerning how bad the brake dust is on these cars, but you pretty much have to experience it to truly understand how bad it is. Super bad. Washed the car and then went to get some gas and have a small drive...It's like I didn't even wash the wheels...lol...Crazy...

Why in the world would they put such crap pads on a vehicle like this?!?!?!? Pretty annoying for sure...

I've always heard BMW was bad for this too...

Bah

 

Well, they're good brakes, but definitely dust prone. I used Pinnacle Black Diamond coating which helped - at least to make the dust easy to wipe/wash off. Even a little car wax will help. But, the real change came when I switched to the Porterfield pads - a vast improvement on that score. I recommend making the change before you get to the point of needing rotors. (Side note - replace the pads yourself, or use an indy. Dealers are prone to insist you do both, regardless of wear/need.)

 

Yep, the OEM pads are incredibly dusty, which is why I changed them out to ceramics or Porterfields on all three of my Jags.
Not just dusty but very grabby and "graunchy" in stop/go traffic, almost as though the brake pedal was an on/off switch, which made it very difficult to drive smoothly in stop/go traffic.
The OEM pads are semi-metallic and purposefully designed to have strong initial "bite", and both the pads and rotors are relatively soft which is one reason why they wear out so fast.
Also not many realise that some of the dust is from the rotors not just the pads.
Change the pads out to ceramics or Porterfield R4-S and you won't look back!

 

I love the R4-S pads.
In addition to less dust, I now find braking easier to modulate.

 

I'm looking to getting some R4-S pads soon as my rears are getting thin. What have you guys seen as the typical timeline for replacing rotors? I'm at 26k miles.

 

I agree on everything about the Porterfield R4-S (less grabby in stop & go, less dust, better modulation) and only have found one thing worth a caution. When they are very wet and cold, they take a lot more effort until they dry. That's with the drilled and slotted Wortec rotors. If I'm on the freeway in heavy rain without touching the brakes for 15 minutes I make sure to brake early for the offramp.

I don't know about longevity of stock rotors. I changed mine out when they were still in spec.

 

My OEM rotors didn't have much life left in them when I changed them at 50k miles (35k of them driven by me).

Driving style factors into this though. I enjoy aggressive cornering.

 

I switched out the pads at about 34k miles and the rotors were fine. Then again, I rarely brake :-}

 

I’m tempted to consider switching them out, but mine only have a 1000km on them.

I kinda wonder if it might not partly be my washing technique or something. Not sure. I think I could deal with it more if I could wash the car and have it at least stay decent for at least a little while…You know, not the first drive and have it be that bad…lol…

What are some good aftermarket carbon ceramic brakes for these cars? Any suggestions?

I literally would only consider them for the no dust aspect. Don’t really need them otherwise, and I’m pretty sure they bring their own set of challenges with being loud and not being as suited for the street etc…Buddy of mine had some on his BMW M something or other SUV and said he would never have ceramic brakes again…

 

"Dusty" performance pads are not only a Jaguar thing. I've installed ceramic low-dust pads on my other sports car too, as I was tired of cleaning them every 50 miles!

Yes, the stock F pads do grip suddenly at low speeds. I'm forever flattening the mat on our garage floor. I've even tried to park in the garage with the parking brake, only.

As others have stated, the best thing to do if you have stock pads is 1. use a ceramic wax on them so that the dust doesn't stick & 'burn in', and 2. buy a small California Duster such as the one in the link below, use that ONLY to remove brake dust.

https://www.calcarcover.com/product/...ersuptmsup/830
Oh, and as I've said in the past, try not to use your brakes as much. "Brakes are for SISSIES!!!"

++++++++++++++

PS: Reports here are that stock rotors will easily last TWO sets of pads before they are less than spec for thickness.

 

I’ll have to figure something out, as this really is quite ridiculous.

I have high gloss black wheels. My first thought is that running a dryer duster over them like that would lead to scratches all of the place.

I seriously am wondering if what I’m observing is mostly a consequence of my washing technique. The rotors at the end of washing were solid rust basically. Just moving the car forward into the garage afterwards to park it was a terrible result…lol…If anyone has any thoughts or ideas on this theory I’m all ears.

What specific ceramic pad product did you go with? What did you change your rotors to?

Cheers

 

I use a blower similar to a Blaster Sidekick to dry my car after I wash it. That might help you. You would be amazed the amount of water that collects around the wheels especially the lug nuts after the car has been washed. If you don't have one of those a leaf blower would also work. Just make sure the leaf blower is clean.

 

I switched to the VAP 2 piece rotors and Porterfield pads last year but the car only had 5000 miles on it so I can’t talk to the rotor life question. I will say that the Porterfield pads produce less dust than the stock pads. I was expecting even less dust based on comments here but the pedal feel is much more progressive than the stock pads. No regrets.

 

That is normal for cast-iron rotors. If your F was left outside, the rotors would look rusty if someone just "spit in your general direction". (apologies to Monty Python)



I usually drive our cars around the block ~one mile) to remove the rust before storage.



The low-dust pads I usually use on my other cars are Akebono. BUT I don't see a fitment for F-type. If I needed pads TODAY I would use Porterfield R4-s.


Using a blower won't damage your wheels, in fact this is a GREAT method of drying the latticework on the front grill!

 

I kinda wonder if part of it is not the gloss black wheels I have on this car. That is a first for me. No doubt they make the problem more evident than some other wheel types.

The other thing I wonder is if the pre-soap I use is contributing. I just realized/remembered that the Gyeon PPF soap I have contains some Iron remover. I did get it on the rotors, so perhaps that made matters worse, causing more rust than otherwise would be there etc...

 

I do use a leaf blower for drying the car, but admittedly I did not focus on quickly drying the wheels/brakes etc...That might help as well...

I'm a real sucker for black wheels but I have a feeling I'm gonna regret it ;-)

 

One man's crap is another man's treasure. I love the OEM pads.

 

Fair enough. And to be even more fair, I did just confirm that a lot of what I was experiencing (mentioned above) was self-inflicted. The PPF-specific soap that I use has a small amount of iron remover in it to help keep the paint decontaminated over time etc...

Well, that was definitely the culprit last time there when I reported the "crazy dust" immediately after washing the wheels...As in, just moved the car forward into the garage right after washing and they looked like they had 2 months worth of dust on them or something...lol...I had gotten some on the rotors while foaming the wheels and that was a huge mistake it turns out (despite it not being a full fledge iron remover). I completely forgot it had iron remover in it. So the insane level of dusting I experienced was pretty much purely on account of the small amount of iron remover in that soap doing nasty stuff. I washed today with just regular soap on just the wheels and that did NOT happen this time.

From a performance standpoint, I'm with you...They sure seem to work great, at least for how I drive...A lot of reviews say they're not great, but I guess it depends on how hard you typically push. I like them too minus a bit of the dust ;-)