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I had a s type r doing the same thing after i had replaced the engine. ( at a dealer under warranty)
Run the engine, using short term fuelling live data and spray carb cleaner around the engine and you might see the trims change as it draws the extra fuel in. It might only happen on a really hot or cold engine due the the plastics and metals expanding and contracting.
My fault was the top seal from charger to inlet. You couldn't hear the leak but it was drawing in the carb cleaner and richened up the mixture, seen on short term fuelling.
well basically all dismantled to the sexy sexy core. supercharger is off(got snout rebuilt and 10% pulley), intake manifolds all off, injectors off. some of the gaskets were in a right state. so basically fresh everything, from injectors getting full clean, to fresh gaskets all round. am tempted to do knock sensor/map while am here because i dont wanna have to dig in again
Bit of an update. After car is back together now its throwing p2101 whenever I floor it. Seems to point to throttle body being damaged while it was out.
Lean code wise now it's like at 20% none stop but that's probably from the throttle body being knackered.
bit of an update on this, turns out when the throttle body was reinstalled the gasket wasnt fitted properly so it bent, when the throttle plate opened it hit the gasket and am guessing freaked the computer out.
a fresh gasket sorted the issue but the car is torn down again as am chasing the air leak, my passenger valve cover gasket is leaking.
Bit more on this. The pcv pipe that goes to the throttle housing has oil all around it so I assume its been leaking and as such letting air in. Am going to try change the oring and if not I'll get a replacement.
Bit more of an update on this. After a good amount of driving in conditions these are now the fuel trims. Which now seems huge but smoke test and squirting wd40 all over the place isn't yielding anything.
WD40 seems an odd choice but may work. I'd use a gas not a liquid!! Especially when the liquid failed to work. There are plenty of places a liquid may not reach or may not be dragged into.
WD40 seems an odd choice but may work. I'd use a gas not a liquid!! Especially when the liquid failed to work. There are plenty of places a liquid may not reach or may not be dragged into.
What did you do whilst spraying it?
i was checking short term fuel trims and lambda readings to watch it go hopefully really rich
Your best bet would be STFTs but use something that burns easily and is gaseous. Even then you need the leak present (check trims) (e.g. some leaks only occur when moving or when ... well, you get the idea) and to get a bit lucky, plus on many cars some leaks are not where you can easily spray (e.g. EVAP canister piping).
Your best bet would be STFTs but use something that burns easily and is gaseous. Even then you need the leak present (check trims) (e.g. some leaks only occur when moving or when ... well, you get the idea) and to get a bit lucky, plus on many cars some leaks are not where you can easily spray (e.g. EVAP canister piping).
Tbf that's the only piping I haven't checked cause it's behind engine and a ballache to get to
2 leaks i found on my str after i pulled the charger were the evap hose where it goes into the induction elbow and the brake booster tube o ring at the elbow
2 leaks i found on my str after i pulled the charger were the evap hose where it goes into the induction elbow and the brake booster tube o ring at the elbow
how did you confirm the leaks? was it just smoke testing?
how did you confirm the leaks? was it just smoke testing?
no. I always felt i had a minute vac leak because of my stft on both banks but never set a code. When i took the lines off they came off way to easy and i found both sealing o rings hard as a rack. New o rings fixed my fuel trims so i figured that is what is was
no. I always felt i had a minute vac leak because of my stft on both banks but never set a code. When i took the lines off they came off way to easy and i found both sealing o rings hard as a rack. New o rings fixed my fuel trims so i figured that is what is was
hmm ill have to check those then. the evap one defo felt like it came off too easy last time i had it off
also to test it, can i just unplug it and block off the hole? if its the cause of the leak it should report rich fuel trims right?
Last edited by mgrover_sc; Feb 15, 2021 at 01:15 PM.
hmm ill have to check those then. the evap one defo felt like it came off too easy last time i had it off
also to test it, can i just unplug it and block off the hole? if its the cause of the leak it should report rich fuel trims right?
well...i would think blocking the evap inlet would eliminate any possible vac leak there and cause the trims to lean out...the norma connecter should take a little push to seat and lock tightly...aarcuda mentioned changing every suspect o ring for sure and I agree....otherwise it is hit and miss...i do not know the layout of the rover vac hoses, so I cannot tell you much more than trust the short trims
well...i would think blocking the evap inlet would eliminate any possible vac leak there and cause the trims to lean out...the norma connecter should take a little push to seat and lock tightly...aarcuda mentioned changing every suspect o ring for sure and I agree....otherwise it is hit and miss...i do not know the layout of the rover vac hoses, so I cannot tell you much more than trust the short trims
i just mean the evap pump isn't critical to the running of the car. i dont wanna go breaking something i shouldnt 😂
