So, I had a fuel pump replaced in March. Battery was disconnected. I have had the car in three times but I was just told "drive it some more". (This is a low mileage preservation car, so I don't drive it much. Well, after the last fail and a thousand miles on it since the pump replacement, I contacted the Umpire. After discussion, they sent me the forms.

The really annoying thing is that I have to take it to a factory-authorized dealer. This terrifies me for fear that they will just start replacing components but I'm over a barrel. No failure codes.

Any suggestions?

 

As always:

Use OBD to find which monitor(s) need to set.

Also check for pending codes.

Check as many sensors as you can for plausibility.

 

Followed by the appropriate drive cycles to complete the required monitoring tests as quickly as possible.

You will eventually do it just by driving but it can take a very long time and distance that way.

Graham

 

Well, OK, I'm now officially in the rabbit hole. First, I asked how it is I can drive it without the new tags. I was told that I "could go to the DMV to get a day pass". Uh huh. A half day job to get a pass, and then how do I get a drive cycle? That was absurd enough to ignore it. I'll take my chances with documentation in the car. So then I located a dealer. Called and left a message. No response. Did an on-line request. Got an answer. Said find out which monitor is not resetting. I never got anything from the smog place so I don't know. He also said up to five hours at $150/hour to probably find nothing wrong and be advised to drive it more. He said some cars take up to 3K miles to reset. That's what I do in a year or two. Sigh.
So, I found an independent who has a smog place next to them. I made an appointment with them to have it smogged again and hopefully find out what monitor isn't resetting and to have an alignment I was going to get done anyway. This will help a little, but again, the Umpire will only accept a hall pass from an authorized dealer, so I am still in the rabbit hole.

 

You could buy your own tool quite cheaply to see the status of each monitor.

 

Is that just a regular code reader? If so, I already have one. I put a light flywheel on my Subaru and it kept throwing codes, so I got one to clear the things!

 

Some tools only do codes. You need what's commonly called live data (as well as codes). It's obtained by the tool sending different messages (usually called PIDs) to the car.

 

The OBD2 Reader shows the Catalytic Converter monitor is "not ready". It shows a stored code, "fuel system 1 and 2". Here are photos:

 

So it's got or had fault(s). What were they and were they properly fixed?

Check what live data show for such as fuel trims (& anything else you can figure out).

 

So, after having the CARB Umpire send me two forms to be filled out by a dealer, I called the dealer. He said, you don't want to do that. $150/hour and a minimum of five hours, and "I'm just going to tell you to drive it more". Interestingly, I am of the opinion that I cannot be required to take the car to a dealer vs. independent garage, but I wasn't going to make an issue of it. However, I found a place specializing in European cars about 50 miles away in the desert. They have a top-rated smog place next door. So, since I needed an alignment and wheel rotation, I headed out for there and tried another drive-cycle. Still scary to go though all those gyrations while hoping some road-rage fool with a gun doesn't take you out. Well, today I picked it up, and IT PASSED! I don't know how or why but I am not going to ask. Maybe that last drive did it. A friend told me he had the same problem on his Porsche. He only drives it occasionally and he let the battery discharge. That reset the computer. Took him a thousand miles to re-set it.
Thanks for all the great information on this site!

 

They don't mention that in the Workshop Manual!

Good to hear it finally passed.

Graham

 

I think they wrote it in the UK where it's a very very low risk

Good to hear it passed. Don't let those monitors get unset (so no OBD clears & try to keep the battery charged).

 

I found this somewhere else on here: https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar-drive-cycle

And it worked perfectly for my XJR in getting back to P1111.

Part of it was incomprehensible, but driving for 20 seconds at 4000 rpm in 2nd gear, then coasting to a stop from 50 mph (not easy in SoCal, I can't BELIEVE how far we coasted...), then driving around normally on the freeway for 1/2 hour, fixed it. I love the Jagforums. I was terrified reading all the horror stories.