So I think I made a thread about this issue earlier this year but it magically sorted itself out and has just returned to annoying the living crap out of me. From the key fobs the only thing that locks/unlocks is the fuel filler cap. Both fobs are still sending and the car is receiving because I get the standard one beep and lights flash then I get double beep. All four buttons on the door handles do the same thing it sends the signal to lock the car beeps and lights flash then double beep. Dashboard unlock button is the same it only causes fuel filler cap lock to function and the unlock button does nothing at all. I even manually locked both back doors from inside then got out and nothing happens when I try to unlock with fobs.
Any insight as to what is causing this so I can fix it and be done with the double beeps would be amazing or even a link to a thread that had the same issue and resolved it without having to take it to jaguar
Thank you to any and all for your knowledge and đirection
Oh it's a 2013 xfr 5.0L v8 supercharged and I live in canada

 

It is possibly a failed 'closed' signal on one of the doors, the engine compartment lid or luggage compartment lid. The item is actually shut but the sensor (a microswitch in the door latch in the case of a door) is not signalling so the control module interprets it as still open and gives the double beep error signal.

Graham

 

Do the doors all remain locked or is one open after the double-beep ?

 

update after replacing the only small motor I could find in the drivers door last night the double beep remains. I unfortunately didn't take any pictures but I will be doing the passenger door tonight and will post photos maybe someone can shed some light on why there is only one small motor when based on previous conversations I was expecting to find 2 of them

 

no doors lock at all unless I manually push the latch from inside the door. The fob and dash buttons do not lock doors or unlock doors that I have manually locked

 

Wouldnt i get a message on my dash saying one of those is open when in fact its actually closed? If no how does one go about testing each one to either eliminate that possible cause from the list or find the culprit?

 

is there any way of testing each micro switch in the doors to see if one or more have failed?
I've replaced all 4 motors already and it didn't fix the problem(not terribly surprised)

 

only the fuel filler door lock functions when using either the fob or dash buttons. Lock and unlock on the key fob i can hear the fuel lock functioning but the dashboard buttons only the lock button functions the fuel lock and the uock button does literally nothing

 

Sorry to revive an older thread, but as it has no resolution and I'm getting the same problem, I thought I would comment. I've just had my 2014 XF at a Specialist because I replaced the battery on Monday night and it bricked itself... they plugged it into AutoLogic and it was coming up with something that looked like Cyrillic characters as the chassis number, so they feared a full CJB replacement was needed at first, but plugging it into SDD allowed them to reset and reprogram everything and get the car up and running. While there, I asked about the door locking issue and double beep problem. We had previously been going in through the passenger door, to lock the drivers door from inside, then pressing the fob button to successfully lock the car, which was getting somewhat tiresome. The guy ran around pressing buttons and diagnosed that both rear latches and the drivers latch need replacing... this sort of checks out tbh, as if we lock the drivers latch from inside, everything locks, but we've been having problems with the rear doors not unlocking properly for a while now, even before the double beep appeared. Anyway, I think I've found a more convenient way to make sure the car is locked, than having to go in through the passenger door and that is using the global open/close feature from the key fob. I get all the windows to open, lock the drivers door latch through the open window, then global close everything from the fob and no more double beep... still annoying, but not AS annoying and cheaper than £150/latch from Jaguar + Fitting time.

Anyone know if the door latches on Ebay at £40/each are worth a shot? Are they better than the Jaguar ones that are clearly known for failing? Or worse? Or the same and therefore worth a go?

 

what modules did they reset and reprogram?
I used SDD and reconfigured my CJB which is only a temporary fix. I lost the use of my front windshield washer pump and if I disconnect the battery it will still brick itself(if they didn't tell u about that when they fixed yours I would be very weary of disconnecting the battery) until I get an xprog hooked up to it and can read the eeprom, copy the necessary files and then wipe it clean.
before u buy any latches you should try using some silicone lubricant spray. Attach the little straw to the end and give all the latches a healthy spray and don't be afraid to get right in there and then open, close the door a bunch of times and function the locks as well. It may or may not work out in your case but if it does then u have saved a bunch of money

 

Unfortunately, they were a little cagey about what modules they actually reprogrammed, I've figured out that's what they did since I got hold of SDD and plugged it in to see for myself, then done some research on here. It sounds like we're in exactly the same position, with a bricked car you can bring back to life with SDD, only for the washers not to work... My battery cable actually came loose since then (a little annoying since they were in there charging the battery to do the SDD programming only last week) and it's bricked the car again. This time I have SDD and have a power supply on order to support the reprogramming, probably next week. I'm also looking for an XProg to be able to copy the flash backup to the EEProm and hopefully fix my washers issue and hopefully stop the car from bricking itself every time the battery is off... we will see. Not only did they not tell me the car would brick itself if the battery was removed, or give me any idea as to what the real problem was, but they told me because the CJB was showing signs of failure, I'd likely have to replace that soon... either they don't know about the XProg resolution, or they do and don't trust it, or don't want to tell me about it because it doesn't make them as much money.

Thanks for the tip on the silicone spray, I'll give that a try, as it's obviously not the microswitches inside the latches like they were saying it was, because the doors do lock successfully with my global open/close solution in my last comment, even the rear doors lock and unlock when I do that, so the latches obviously function. In fact, when I lock it via global open/close, if I then go through the lock/unlock procedure with the fob, it tends to actually work normally for a while before going back to not working.

 

well luckily u have sdd to hopefully unbrick your car. I dont know if you have used that software before or not and this is assuming the sdd and cable u will be using are not authentic be very very careful its not hard at all to make a bad situation into a nightmare when using sdd. I would recommend fiddling around in sdd for a bit first before jumping right into reprograming the CJB. They didnt even warn u about it, thats unreal and its no surprise that their solution is to replace a module. Thats all they evwr want to do is stick us with some insane repair cost when it's completely unnecessary. Once u run the xprog on the CJB and then install it and program it u will get the use of the washer pump back and there will be no more bricking the car when u disconnect the battery....... or so I've read many many times. I will find out soon enough 🤞

 

If your washers are not working are you aware of the wire corrosion problems caused by this?
It looks like what kills the CJB is corrosion in the plugs from fluid wicking up from the washer pump into the CJB.

I would remove the washer pump and follow that wire harness up and into the CJB. I have a feeling you will find corrosion.
Here is just one of many threads from the UK forum about this problem. I think it would be worth reading?
Washer Pump Fluid Leak

Attached is a TSB from Jaguar explaining what the problem is and the VERY expensive repair.
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Not sure if you're replying to me or no1 here, but I believe we both have the same problem, which isn't corrosion in the CJB caused by the water wicking up the washer pump wiring, it's the other issue, where the battery was disconnected without everything in the car shutting down, leading to corruption of the VIN number in the CJB, which then leads to the keys not working, etc. Once you get SDD to recognise the keys again by reprogramming the modules as new modules, the car will start, but the washer pump doesn't work, this requires the CJB to actually be re-flashed via an XProg device, using the backup configuration the CJB stores in it's flash memory, this is the only thing that restores the washer pump functionality.

 

Your right but if the washers are involved it strongly points to the CJB corrosion problem. The smart key problem from changing the battery does not affect the washer system from what I have read.
So I think we have two similar but distinct problems here?
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From what I can gather, the washers problem applies to the battery disconnection issue too, if it's the VIN getting corrupted. The confusion I think, is caused by the fact that the corrosion in the CJB, is caused by water wicking up the wiring from the washer pump. In my case, according to the Jag specialist, there's no corrosion in my CJB, it's just from the battery disconnect procedure not being followed (Mainly caused by the lack of a giant neon sign over the battery saying "DO NOT DISCONNECT THIS, JAGUAR HAVE DONE A TERRIBLE JOB ON THE WIRING!!!!"). So ultimately the three scenarios I've picked up on are:

1. Water wicks up the wiring from the washer pump, corrodes the CJB and causes all manner of different issues around the car, which cannot be resolved without removing the corrosion and possibly replacing the CJB.
2. Battery disconnect causes central locking not to work, there's a fairly simple and straight forward procedure to follow to resolve this, which I believe doesn't involve SDD, XProg, or replacement of the CJB
3. Battery disconnect causes CJB corruption, this can be partially resolved with SDD, restoring Smart Key functionality and the car to 'working' status, but the washer pump won't work and disconnecting the battery again, even if done with the proper procedure, will cause the car to once again, brick itself. The only way to properly resolve this, is to either replace the CJB at over £1k cost from Jaguar, OR, use an XProg device to re-flash the EProm on the CJB, correcting the corruption and resolving all known issues.

 

What he said ☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️ lol I have checked all connectors and pins on my CJB and not a singal spec of corrosion. I agree with the confusion about the washer pump being its not a result of fluid wicking into the CJB and its failure is somehow caused by the programming of the corrupt CJB which needs to be done to get the keys back working (kind of a catch 22). But none the less option 3 on his last post is the direction I'm headed to for resolution let's just pray that re-flashing the CJB corrects the issue with disconnecting the battery

 

In the meantime does anyone have a workaround for the washer pump to get it working? Somewhere I can rout the power supply? I live in Alberta Canada and the roads can get pretty nasty in the winter and it doesn't take long on the highway before it becomes challenging to see lol

 

The only 'hack' I can think of, would be to take power from the light washer pump, route that to the main washer pump instead/as well, then make sure your lights are on when you need to use the washer pump... The light washers only work every 4 'washes' and only if the lights are on and only once every 10 minutes, so you'd have to basically turn your lights on, press the washer button, then turn the lights off and back on again if you needed to do it again. As far as I can tell, they're all on the same fuse anyway, so routing power to the main washer pump shouldn't blow any fuses. I'm not sure if turning the lights off, then back on would reset the 10 minute counter or not either...

 

ok I was kind of leaning towards that same route but I definitely didn't know all those bits of info so thank you for that or I would have been cursing down the highway wonder why the heck it worked once and now isn't hahaha
Well if turning the lights off then back on resets the 10 min counter anybody ahead of me will be wondering why I'm flashing my lights at them lol this should be fun. I will more than likely put an inline fuse in just to be on the safe side.
thank you sir