Did it make any difference?

Let me put it this way, I saw the yellow traction control ASC flashing at 50 mph. That never happened before.

The car pulls harder with traction control on and helping, even flashing ASC in 2nd gear. Revs up faster from 3000 up to shifting at 6000.

And, now I can hear the Gen V eaton scream when I'm on boost, and can't hear it when off boost.

Do I like it... Yes.

Not the prettiest mash up of 4" extensions, but that is what I had laying around in a box. 92mm MAF to lengths of 4" diameter, then necks down to 3.5" intake tube through nice 90 degree smooth sweep into 3.25" Maxbored TB.

My "cold air" partition works pretty well as the intake air is within 3-5 degrees of outside air when I'm moving. I made it out of sheet metal and used 1/2 inch pipe insulation to make everything seal decently.

Time to make an appointment for the dyno, then a trip to the 1/4 mile track again. I have good baselines for each, so I can report honest and verifiable gains in hp and 1/4 mile performance times.

A big THANK YOU to JgaXKR for sending me the connector and advice, and of course AVOS, Jim Lombardi, for working out the electronics.

 

Nice! How hard was it to get the MAF to work?

 

Waterdragon didn't have to do anything, Jgaxkr and I have spend the money to have a base calibration made for these AJ27 cars, so Pro-m can now sell their MAFs with the jaguar calibration, so being it the 3.5"maf or the 92 version. And no we don't get any share.

 

Really, I didn't have to do anything??
All I did was decide the MAF was my current bottleneck, came to understand that I should disregard the incorrect advice that a larger MAF would not yield any benefits, research where to get one and then pull the trigger, then installed it. Upon trying it out I was getting codes that the IAT sensor was reading incorrectly.

First try was to buy a drop in unit for my custom intake from Pro-M which they said would work(LIED) in my proposed set up, but didn't when I sent it them to be calibrated, then they refused to accept the return on the un-used, un-installed unit that they recommended, so I bought the 92mm which they said would bolt right in and go, they were still wrong as they said the IAT sensor was already correct, which it wasn't, and did not respond to email requests for help. Only when I called them on the phone would they tell me which wires went to what things.

So PRO-M does not know much about what they are selling for Jags, they gave bad advice and do not accept any returns for buying parts they recommend that they can't calibrate, even when they said they would be able to calibrate them/so what I'm saying is they do not accept refunds when a buyer follows their incorrect advice when they give incorrect information.

So if anyone else wants to go the larger MAF route, which I highly recommend, just know that you will need the extra IAT sensor wired separately and you will be good to go.

The 92mm is 3.62", the stock was 2.95" This one flows lots and lots more.

 

How many lbs are you pushing? I've mine in pieces right now as I install the 1.5 eurotoys pulley

 

My pulley is a little smaller diameter than the Eurotoys and Powerhouse pulleys and is an approximately +1.8 lb upper. I had calculated theirs to be +5.5% and mine as + 6.5%. Eurotoys pulley is .16" smaller than stock, and mine is .19" smaller than stock. Rough guestimates on added poundage. Close enough for me.

 

You should run a catch can to keep the oil/hot air outta the intake too.

 

What does that mean? I'm too dense, I don't understand your post..what is a catch can? Where would what oil be coming from?

I did make a pretty well sealed divider between the air filter and engine bay so the cold air comes in through the mostly through a ram air duct from the foglight that goes through a 5" hole where the windscreen bottle used to be, and it also sucks fresh air from behind the headlights and some slightly warmer air comes through the fender opening where the stock snorkel used to go. The IAT is only 3-5 degrees warmer than the outside air when I'm moving.

 

The fitting off the valve cover into the tube... ill be running both of mine to a catch can when I get to that point.

 

Ohhhhhh... so I could just run that into a can with a vent for the outgoing air?

Random question- is there gas vapor in any blowby that could lower my mileage?

 

Ya I am going to run a catch can. I am pulling my s/c off (75k miles) and this is what my TB looks like...




Caked on oil

 

eeeewwwwww

 

Ha, wait until you see the inside of your intercoolers.

 

Yes, XJR-Prototype

good suggestion, my coolers were cleaned before re-installing them and I think that helped their efficiency improve.

 

No reason to oil them back up

 

What is a good way to clean them?

 

I used fuel and let it sit in them for awhile... i tried to take them to a radiator shop but they couldn't do it... used alot of water and shaking to flush them out.

 

Please educate me here.

It is my limited understanding that the benefit of the suction from the intake is that it sucks out lots of the gaseous "ickies" from the crankcase that would otherwise contaminate the engine oil and thereby shorten it's life.

Would it be possible to do something like simply put in a screen on the vertical part of the tube as to significantly lessen the amount of oil spit up into the intake?

 

Most prefab catchcans really operate as oil separators and get plumbed into the line. So, the flow remains the same.

Have a look around ebay or summit to see a few pictures.

 

Ah hah,

In that case we may be in business