Disable EGR Valve
#41
To whom did you send your ECU and do you feel the Eurotoys ECU flash is a good one ? Please let us know how the ECU works out. I will put on my thinking cap about
a different filtered air intake box. My neighbor can manufacture anything. He builds
bicycles, motorcycles w/ car engines and most anything else you could want.
a different filtered air intake box. My neighbor can manufacture anything. He builds
bicycles, motorcycles w/ car engines and most anything else you could want.
#42
Here is another thought to still make use of the original elbow/tb/intake combo but make it more efficient for high air flow.
The TB butterfly valve opens in the width of the engine, and I personally would think it would have been better if it was in length; probably space was an issue there. Now at full throttle I believe you would get some turbulence in the rear part causing loss of flow. By putting in 2 plates (that follow the contour of the butterfly) both in the intake tube and below in the intake elbow, I believe you could limit these turbulences and can increase the airflow overall.
Here are 2 pictures which hopefully make the idea clear:
Drawings made of course by my little 5year old son ;-), but I think you (or anyone else) should get the picture.
I haven’t done anything on this area, as it would take me just too much time and requires some precision welding which I can’t do so am not 100% sure it could yield anything.
If you have taken of all the parts anyhow, it could be made outside of the car, and can be tested on a flow bench if it increases the airflow.
This setup could just give enough extra air flow that this way the cost can be avoided of developing a completey new inake elbow/TB combo.
It would be great if your/(anyone) could also do the airbox to fit in a larger filter as anyone that is busy with getting more power out of ther STRs (being it with the roots or Twin-screw) will benefit form this.
Let me know wat you think of the above ideas.
The TB butterfly valve opens in the width of the engine, and I personally would think it would have been better if it was in length; probably space was an issue there. Now at full throttle I believe you would get some turbulence in the rear part causing loss of flow. By putting in 2 plates (that follow the contour of the butterfly) both in the intake tube and below in the intake elbow, I believe you could limit these turbulences and can increase the airflow overall.
Here are 2 pictures which hopefully make the idea clear:
Drawings made of course by my little 5year old son ;-), but I think you (or anyone else) should get the picture.
I haven’t done anything on this area, as it would take me just too much time and requires some precision welding which I can’t do so am not 100% sure it could yield anything.
If you have taken of all the parts anyhow, it could be made outside of the car, and can be tested on a flow bench if it increases the airflow.
This setup could just give enough extra air flow that this way the cost can be avoided of developing a completey new inake elbow/TB combo.
It would be great if your/(anyone) could also do the airbox to fit in a larger filter as anyone that is busy with getting more power out of ther STRs (being it with the roots or Twin-screw) will benefit form this.
Let me know wat you think of the above ideas.
Last edited by Cadillac; 11-10-2010 at 06:09 AM.
#44
It is working, the orifice needed to be about 5mm, that has done the trick. The only disadvantage is when you take your foot of the gas pedal (so throttle fully closed) the engine still gets a little oxygenated air for about 1.5 to 2 seconds, so the deceleration is a bit delayed. The EGR valve stays open for this time once you have taken your foot of the pedal. I haven’t mentioned this to the owner, as I am somewhat picky, and wanted to know how he felt about it He didn’t notice it, and after I told him also was ok with it of course.
You might need to play a little, I think 4mm was just a little bit too small, and that caused EGR codes, but 5mm (and many thousands of miles) is working perfectly.
You might need to play a little, I think 4mm was just a little bit too small, and that caused EGR codes, but 5mm (and many thousands of miles) is working perfectly.
#45
I am curious, what is the benefit of deleting the EGR? I have encountered extended discussions in other v8 forums that ultimately concluded that for an American V8 there is little to nothing gained by removing it other than easier access to spark plugs, and some drawbacks to be gained.
cheers,
TonyL
cheers,
TonyL
#46
#47
Hello guys;
I've been getting some P0405 and P0406 EGR codes lately, and based on this thread I went in to take a look. My understanding is that these particular codes relate to the electrical health of the valve, and not to exhaust flow.
Happily, I found that my EGR tube had already been deleted by a previous owner...I've just had the car since summer 2011.
The openings on the EGR and exhaust manifold were nicely capped off.
I cleaned the electrical connector, but I'm still getting the codes. I'm going to have the intake manifold and throttle body off soon for other business...I'll poke into the EGR a bit more while I'm at it.
I've been getting some P0405 and P0406 EGR codes lately, and based on this thread I went in to take a look. My understanding is that these particular codes relate to the electrical health of the valve, and not to exhaust flow.
Happily, I found that my EGR tube had already been deleted by a previous owner...I've just had the car since summer 2011.
The openings on the EGR and exhaust manifold were nicely capped off.
I cleaned the electrical connector, but I'm still getting the codes. I'm going to have the intake manifold and throttle body off soon for other business...I'll poke into the EGR a bit more while I'm at it.
#48
#49
Avos,
Do you think there's any way I can remove my EGR valve altogether, and rig the electrical connector so that the ECM is happy and no codes are thrown?
1. My car is a 1997 and there is no EGR vacuum sensor
2. EGR tube to exhaust is already deleted
3. Have been getting P0405 and P0406 codes for about a month...something electrical within the valve is going bad and lighting the CEL.
Since my EGR is serving no real purpose now, I don't want to replace it just so the electrical codes go away. I'd rather delete it completely, blank off the opening at the induction elbow and find a simple way to fool the ECM.
Any ideas? Thanks for bringing this topic up!
Do you think there's any way I can remove my EGR valve altogether, and rig the electrical connector so that the ECM is happy and no codes are thrown?
1. My car is a 1997 and there is no EGR vacuum sensor
2. EGR tube to exhaust is already deleted
3. Have been getting P0405 and P0406 codes for about a month...something electrical within the valve is going bad and lighting the CEL.
Since my EGR is serving no real purpose now, I don't want to replace it just so the electrical codes go away. I'd rather delete it completely, blank off the opening at the induction elbow and find a simple way to fool the ECM.
Any ideas? Thanks for bringing this topic up!
#50
If it is not the cabling/connector, then the unit might be broken. Other then getting a 2nd hand one, I have not enough electrical knowledge to know how to fake the ECU that the EGR seems still attached.
Just had a look on ebay, and you could also opt for a later unit (seem more available) as the electrical connector looks the same (but the fitting to the intake elbow isn't though). Here is one for instance:
Jaguar XJR XJ8 EGR Valve 2000 01 02 03 | eBay
Just had a look on ebay, and you could also opt for a later unit (seem more available) as the electrical connector looks the same (but the fitting to the intake elbow isn't though). Here is one for instance:
Jaguar XJR XJ8 EGR Valve 2000 01 02 03 | eBay
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The Coupe (03-07-2012)
#51
Cry for help
Avos
Hi joined to talk to avos
Hoping you can help.
Where are you located, I think you can help me out with sorting a Map/Maf/Egr/unknown problem on my 2004 S type 4.2
Car goes into restricted mode and displays engine fault,no dsc etc when driving whenweather is warm, turn ign off for five mins and will drive for a while before going back into restricted mode. If external temp is less than 16 degrees the car has no problems.
It seems to happen when decelerating/or when cruise control is cancelled.
I hed to stop at a dealer in uk yesterday as trying to make the ferry and no codes, previously had codes read and reset about two weeks ago (same symptoms going through France on hot day but not reacured until yesterday) had P0121,P0105
Engine temp sitting around 94 degrees.
I am in elmpt (Germany) just east of Roermond.
Anyway I was hoping if you are not to far away you might be able to do some diagnostics on it for me, and help aquire parts needed.
obviously I will reimbers you for your time and effort
( I am assuming you have a garage/business)
I would have sent PM but can't find the link on website to do it
Kind regards
Jeff
Sorry for jumping in on this thread
Hi joined to talk to avos
Hoping you can help.
Where are you located, I think you can help me out with sorting a Map/Maf/Egr/unknown problem on my 2004 S type 4.2
Car goes into restricted mode and displays engine fault,no dsc etc when driving whenweather is warm, turn ign off for five mins and will drive for a while before going back into restricted mode. If external temp is less than 16 degrees the car has no problems.
It seems to happen when decelerating/or when cruise control is cancelled.
I hed to stop at a dealer in uk yesterday as trying to make the ferry and no codes, previously had codes read and reset about two weeks ago (same symptoms going through France on hot day but not reacured until yesterday) had P0121,P0105
Engine temp sitting around 94 degrees.
I am in elmpt (Germany) just east of Roermond.
Anyway I was hoping if you are not to far away you might be able to do some diagnostics on it for me, and help aquire parts needed.
obviously I will reimbers you for your time and effort
( I am assuming you have a garage/business)
I would have sent PM but can't find the link on website to do it
Kind regards
Jeff
Sorry for jumping in on this thread
#52
Poor connections on the throttle body, or potentiometers inside the throttle body that are breaking down with heat.
Also consider brake pedal switch. There are two microswitches inside that need to switch at the same time to keep the car happy. If one switches slightly later than the other (or not at all) then the car doesn't like this. Usually happens when you press the brake gently, but not when you press the brake hard.
Thanks for the 5 mm tip Avos - will be deleting EGR on a SuperV8 with this method shortly.
Also consider brake pedal switch. There are two microswitches inside that need to switch at the same time to keep the car happy. If one switches slightly later than the other (or not at all) then the car doesn't like this. Usually happens when you press the brake gently, but not when you press the brake hard.
Thanks for the 5 mm tip Avos - will be deleting EGR on a SuperV8 with this method shortly.
#53
#54
Its all in this thread, and I don't have pictures. Here a summary:
Leave the EGR connected as is.
Close the EGR connection on the exhaust manifold
Cut the EGR pipe, and connect a hose to it (thick one that doesn't collapse under heat), to the intake pipe between the MAF and TB.
Then easiest to put in this hose a block that has an orifice of 5mm to limit the amount of airflow.
That's it.
Leave the EGR connected as is.
Close the EGR connection on the exhaust manifold
Cut the EGR pipe, and connect a hose to it (thick one that doesn't collapse under heat), to the intake pipe between the MAF and TB.
Then easiest to put in this hose a block that has an orifice of 5mm to limit the amount of airflow.
That's it.
The following 4 users liked this post by avos:
#56
Its all in this thread, and I don't have pictures. Here a summary:
Leave the EGR connected as is.
Close the EGR connection on the exhaust manifold
Cut the EGR pipe, and connect a hose to it (thick one that doesn't collapse under heat), to the intake pipe between the MAF and TB.
Then easiest to put in this hose a block that has an orifice of 5mm to limit the amount of airflow.
That's it.
Leave the EGR connected as is.
Close the EGR connection on the exhaust manifold
Cut the EGR pipe, and connect a hose to it (thick one that doesn't collapse under heat), to the intake pipe between the MAF and TB.
Then easiest to put in this hose a block that has an orifice of 5mm to limit the amount of airflow.
That's it.
are the instructions for the EGR still up to date?
If so, did you still have problems afterwards?
I have an S-Type R from 06 with the engine removed, it would be the right time to bypass the EGR.
Greetings
Tito
#60
The 4.2 2006 Panpag ECU cars maybe more difficult, the ecu could be more sensitive I just don´t know, so that is what you have to find out.
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