Gene,
It is hard to tell, but I think the shims in your baggie are the window frame shims that go between the top of the door and the window frame to line up the window. I assumed based on your report that your problem was the alignment of your door - not the door window frame. Scroll down a bit on this post from my website and you will see the door hinge shims to which I was referring. Doors and Windows ? Valve Chatter

Lin

 

Good Morning Lin,

Door hinges is what I'm having trouble with. I didn't even know that the windows had shims. Maybe that was what the wood was being used for? It was deteriorated to almost nothing so not much use. Oh wait - there were several washers under the window frame. I'll take a pic of those and post in the next couple days.

It's so nice to have a reference like yours to refer back to. Thank you for maintaining that site I'll review it as soon as I finish this post.

Gene

 

Those shims look like the ones for the window frames on top of the door.

Here is a pic of one of the shims on my doors. This one is obviously a bottom hinge.

 

I understand the confusion now. I do not have full-size shims for my driver-side door. I have smaller U-shaped versions that slide on and off the bolts. I'll try to provide pics at some point. Yes, they have the same shape as the "packing pieces" that hold the chrome window frame up, but my door hinge shims are bigger than the window frame pieces.

 

I very much like that write-up. Could have used something like that when I restored mine .Alec G.

 

This forum is an AMAZING resource. When I have folks like Lin, Jon, Chuck and many others responding to my questions I understand the meaning of the statement "standing on the shoulders of giants". Cheers!

 

That's very kind Gene, with the support of others we all (including myself) grow a little taller, no-one can know what they have not learn't and it is an ignorant man that thinks he knows everything.

There is a wealth of combined knowledge on this forum, with different experiences. I have and always will take my hat off to Lin for the gargantuan effort he has put into his Valve Chatter site and for continuing to maintain it as such a great reference.

Keep up the good work Gene and everyone else.

 

Thanks to Gene and Jon. Glad to hear the old website remains useful!
Lin

 

Very much so Lin. If you want help maintaining the site let me know. At least let me buy you an iced tea if we meet in our travels

 

Sorry for the delay. This is the pic I took of the 3 shims/packers that dropped from my door. I re-installed them all on the bottom hinge and the door closes easily. Glasses clips in the pic to show scale

 

Those shims are as you say similar the glass frames, if they are solving the problem, then stick with them.

 

Sounds right to me too. At some point I will probably replicate the shims that you and Lin have been talking about.

 

Nice work Gene- glad you fixed your problem!

 

Just a video of a recent drive. She does alright for an old car without an overdrive, and I love the sound of her engine:

 

Very nice, Gene. Love the sound, too and the ride seemed pretty smooth.
Lin

 

Thank you sir. She does alright for an "older lady"

 

Was not sitting on my laurels all of 2020 but I could have removed more rust I guess. I have been working to procure "bits" for my interior. Wood trim kit came late last year and this week I put the glove box together. LOTS of "fiddly bits":

 

Gene
I am a bit late in entering your thread. However I after over 55 years of older Jaguars I would tender these observations.
Low oil pressure, especially after a long run:
As long as the idle oil pressure remains around 10 to 20 PSI there is no problem. My first Mk7 Jaguar when I was 21 which is over 55 years ago did that and I was advised by the local Jaguar dealer (Westco Motors) that this is normal. Their advice was to remove the oil filler cap while the engine was running and if there was plenty of oil moving through the camshaft covers all would be OK. I suspect they were experts as they were also racing a D type and a MK 1, Actually Jaguar changed oil pressure gauges from 0-100 PSI to 0-60 PSI as customers were concerned at the very low gauge indications. There has been a lot of garbage disseminated over the years about Jaguar oil pressure which is sheer bull ---t..
MK2 Jaguar Oil pressure gauges tell lies
I have found again and again that the MK2 oil pressure gauge is an unreliable piece of pommy( Australian for English) junk. You need to use a direct reading gauge to see what is really happening. I sorted one out a few years ago where the owner was about to commit to a an engine rebuild based on low oil pressure. Using a direct reading gauge the oil pressure was OK.
DG250 Automatic Gearboxes
I scanned your previous problems with this auto box. Nobody raised the problem of possible low oil. The DG box weirdly requires that the engine is running with the gear selector in L to check oil level in the gear box. I have owned 1 Auto MK1 and 2 Auto MK2s and assure you this is correct. I have also checked my original Jaguar factory workshop manual and the procedure is on Page A24.
I hope this helps

 

I'd second what Bill wrote on oil pressure. In my experience, the most likely cause of a low reading is the gauge itself. That's followed by the pressure relief valve. Wear in the engine is the last place to look. The gauge is useful for showing sudden changes and that the oil is warmed up and it doesn't have a capillary to crack and leak, but, apart from those aspects, it's not the finest instrument in the world in other words rubbish.

 

Peter
Re-low oil pressure especially at idle.
Thanks for the wake up call on the oil pressure relief valve. I should have mentioned it in my post. On two occasions I have found that the oil pressure relief valve was the culprit. Once on one of my own cars and another on a friends car. In both cases the faces of the valve were worn and they were refaced on a lathe.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3XJ6
X300
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