The car you recall must have been a higher spec' 3.8 with Reuter seats, they're the adjustable back ones and very desirable in a MKII...

 

Agreed, the "Fold Down Tables" were almost goofy in their impracticality, but fun to show to people who'd never seen anything like it before (i.e. Americans).

They are so shallow (the tables, not the Americans) that even if level they're not useful for much. Unlike the ones in Rolls/Bentleys which are a reasonable size and shape. However scary to use lest one mar the precious veneers.

 

I finally started on the clutch hydraulic system, which was a mess. I ordered a master and slave cylinder kits and pipe kit. In the process, cleaned up the heater blower box and vicinity. After sitting for a few months, the engine wouldn't start. I checked the fuel line and all filters. Everything was clear. I used a spark tester on the coil and plugs. Plenty of spark. The fuse for all the switch items was blown. The manual lists those items, but doesn't include other items which only appear in the witing diagram...including an electric choke. The fuse was replaced, but the car didn't start. I noted that the circuit runs through the voltage regulator. Once the voltage regulator was tripped, the engine fired right up.

At first, because the clutch wouldn't disengage, I thought I hadn't bled the system sufficiently, so I bled it again. This time I happened to press the clutch to the floor and it disengaged. I hadn't adjusted the pedal at the slave cylinder plunger, so when I did that, voila!, everything worked. I took it for a drive to the corner and back. The silencers are shot, so it's VERY noisy. But it works.

 

Recently have continued draining, cleaning, refilling, polishing, rebuilding various parts and systems. Rebuilt and reinstalled the original fuel pump eliminating the annoying universal electric pump than runs continuously. Dismantled the windscreen wiper motor, cleaned and replaced the wiring inside and out. Replaced the windscreen washer tube T connection. Removed and cleaned the instruments and wiring. Found a replacement grille in good condition and am looking for a good center bar. Replaced all the lights and cleaned all fixtures. Replaced the servo hose.

The car is drivable now within the neighborhood. Runs smooth in all gears and overdrive. Two young guys, Evan and Ryan, have been doing most of the work, which they tell me they love doing. They are learning to drive a manual transmission.

 

More pix

 

Hi Joe,
I have just had the opportunity to go through your entire restoration thread and enjoyed doing so. I am in the midst of my own restoration of my 64 MK2 MOD. We are traveling similar paths with the exception that I am doing a complete tear down and then build back. Some of your photos have been very helpful - thank you!

I was puzzled by one photo - the yellow wooden block in the trunk. My car does not have that. What is its purpose and is it correct for the car?



By the way, my own restoration work (I am just a hobbyist) can be found at http://valvechatter.us should you have any interest in comparing notes from time to time.

Lin

 

Thanks, Lin,
I'll take some time checking out your project. To answer your question, that block was in the car when I bought it in '68 or '69. It would be used to block the car from rolling and to catch the attention of passing motorists, if you were roadside fixing a flat. May be worth some research to see if it was original or an option (like emergency flashers) or just the previous owner's good idea.

I thought it was a good idea, so I made one to carry in the Packard I restored a few of years ago adding a reflector. (I'm replacing the clutch now.) You can see it at Packard Motor Car Information - The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan [Packard Forums - Project Blogs] on the Packard info site.

I'm just bringing the Mk 2 back enough for my youngest son and his family to enjoy until he can do a proper restoration or pay to have it done. I drove it around yesterday and it was a thrill. What I'm doing can best be described as a "maintenance restoration" and a "cosmetic restoration." I just take one part at a time and restore it so it works. The power steering unit leaks, so that will be fixed. I'll do the wood one piece at a time. When it comes time to paint and upholster, everything will come off easily (all rusted parts will have been cleaned and painted and rusty fasteners replaced as I go) and when paint and seats are done, everything will be ready to go back on. All the research and waiting and hunting for parts will have been done.

I have no natural mechanical ability. It took me a week to work my way through the electrical diagrams to understand how it works and about four tries putting it back together. But it works beautifully now and you've never seen anyone get so excited over watching wipers park themselves.
Joe

 

A first outing to the grocery store.

 

Joe,

Congrats on your progress.

Lin

 

As previously posted a few years ago, I "fixed" the hydraulics for the clutch system. Son James has licensed and insured the sedan and purchased an exhaust system for it which I took to a muffler shop. There were a number of issues that specifically 1961 MK2 owners should be aware of when ordering and installing a new Bell-mfg exhaust system, and with taking the car to a non-Jag shop, even though it specializes in exhaust systems. More on that if anyone is interested.

Regarding the clutch, it has been replaced. The hydraulics seem to be the problem. Driving to the muffler shop and back home, the clutch/transmission would sometimes not re-engage after a stop...until I pumped the clutch pedal.

What do you suggest to fix this. Just a reminder. I am not at all mechanically intuitive. Often the opposite.

 

Hi Jo, do you mean the clutch won't let you get into gear (disengage) or when it is in gear it won't let you pull away (engage).

I assume you mean you can't get it into gear without pumping the clutch, if that is the case I would look at air in the system or adjustment of the clutch operating rod. For adjustment have a look at Gearbox, Clutch and Propshaft ? Valve Chatter, any problems, let us know.

 

Oh and please post the issues with the exhaust, someone has issues with a MK1 exhaust, so there may be pertinent info for him also. The manifolds in the early Mk2's were as per MK1, so it could be relevant.

 

just to add my experience with Bell, I ordered a complete Bell Exhausts stainless steel system for my S type in 2005, installed it myself placing the tires on blocks and jacks in other places.

It fit like a glove, no issues. All mufflers and resonators were beautifully polished, came with all hardware needed, except I used Band clamps which do not crimp the joined parts like the U clamps do. No welding, Jaguar never welded exhaust parts. Also used Permatex Exhaust Adhesive because I could not get Jaguar's recommended "Firegum" in the US.

It sounds like a Jaguar XK-120.

the photo below is when I laid everything to check and familiarize with all the parts.

 

For the record I just went through something similar to The Thread 1960 MK1 3.4L Exhaust. I specifically ordered the early system, which turned out to be wrong one, for my son’s 1961 MK2 3.8 Sedan. There are two types for 1961. Unfortunately the production number I used steered me wrong. And Barratt’s website shows a picture of one type, but not the other type, so I went by what I thought should be right. I thought we had the early version, but the headers with the 90-degree bend are the later model pipes and, as it turned out after they were removed, were the ones on the car.

The instructions for mounting the system are straightforward, even easy. Initially I thought I just do this myself, but I was busy moving the office and home improvements.

So, noisy as it was, I drove it to a muffler shop where a tech old as me with 30+ years experience would mount it for flat labor charge of $90/hour. He soon discovered that the headers I gave him, if installed, would scrape the ground. They were designed for the early 1961 models.

At first I thought it was Barratt’s error, and I was not happy since I might have to have the car, now with no muffler, towed home until the replacement pipes arrived. Though from the comparison photo I texted to Barratts on the spot, we discovered that it was my error. Barratt graciously shipped a replacement set and paid shipping for the incorrect set back to them. Don’t expect them to do this for everyone. I doubt it’s their policy. I was very appreciative and over-wrapped the set I returned so much that I had to name it The English Patient.

The shop was very good about keeping the car, though they had to move it out and back in the shop every day for a week. One of those days was the Tech’s birthday, so he took the day off and went to the coast to celebrate. The younger tech had to move the Jag. And here is a word of advice if you take your vintage Jag to any non-Jag specialty shop like a tire, brake or muffler place. Show them how to start the car. This fellow didn’t expect it to start like a Prius with a button. He thought he should turn the key and get starter/ignition. Nada. So he kept twisting expecting to hear the starter, and twisting until he loosened the switch, thought he was getting somewhere, and kept twisting til the wires pulled off the back of the switch. Then he had to push it in and out til the old tech got back and did a temp fix.

In a few days the replacement pipes arrived. I was now at the bottom of the list, so a day or two went by before they got back on the Jag and discovered the studs were too short. Barratt said they’d never heard of such a problem with Bell exhausts, but this thread shows that more than one person has experienced this problem and it’s a nasty one. 2-3/4” or 3” 3/8 fine thread blackened hard studs are not that readily available. NAPA didn’t have them. The muffler shop doesn’t stock them. No Jaguar dealer or Jag repair shop in Portland stocked them. After hitting the unusual auto supply suspects, I went to the decades-old Ace Hardware I used to visit every Saturday when I was restoring my ’40 Packard convertible. They had 3-1/2” hardened studs with 2-3/4 fine thread on one end and coarse thread on the other.

The tech welded a nut to the tip of each of the 8 studs and got them out. He cut the coarse end off the replacement studs and installed them. The system did not “fall” into place. It had to be muscled in. But it fits and the car purrs now. O yes, 3 hours labor for what I thought would be a simple little job.

 

That's great info Joe, do you by any chance have any pics of the manifolds in question ? Do they have the recess for the sealing ring, also if you haven't could you post this info on the other thread for the guy with this problem please, at least he should be able to resolve the issue he has.

 

First up, Thanks TilleyJon for the suggestion to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. I'll post the results, but I think that will fix it.

No pictures of the manifold. I only looked up there to see the 8 studs he had to remove first. But if you rightclick/controlclick the photos comparing the two pipe, you can zoom way in and see the difference in the ends. If there is a recess, it's half the depth or less than these new pipes require (understanding that the new pipe in the picture is for earlier models and did not fit my son's car because of the bends). I will post a link to the 1960 MK1 3.4L Exhaust thread if someone hasn't done it yet.

 

Thanks for doing that Joe, let us know how you get on with the clutch.

 

I bled the clutch hydraulics. Easy to get into gear, but now it wants to peel out and kill the engine. Kinda scary to let the clutch out. Car leaps like the mascot. 1st or reverse.
I read the manual on adjustments, free pedal etc, but I think I'll wait until one of my sons can stop by this week to mess with it further, or I'll have it towed to a Jag shop here.

 

A little more info.
1. I had to re-register as Joseph Santana at my other email address because the system wouldn't recognize my user name or password.

2. The car lurched in 1st gear before I bled the hydraulics, but all other gears shifted normally. Now after bleeding them, it lurches more severely. Of course it does the same in reverse, but there's no 2nd or 3rd in reverse, so I think my best alternative is to push it out, and try to start off in 2nd.

3. But to the best of my knowledge the car had a tranny overhaul and new clutch (old clutch was in the box of old parts, like the fuel pump I rebuilt and reinstalled).

4. I think the Manual refers to this condition as ****** or Fierceness and says to replace the worn clutch. So I'm wondering if this condition (normal shifting in 2,3,4 and overdrive) but grabbing in 1st and reverse, is a simple diagnosis. (I know, fat chance).

 

Well Joe has posted here according the the notifications as JosephSantana, but the post does not show up, do the Mods know where it went ?