Seeing that bare shell in primer brought back a few memories, I can tell you ! I was lucky as I found an un-rusted shell to use. Then it was just a case of cannibalising the car I already had. I transferred the hood and the trunk lids, and managed to find four new S-type doors.Martin Robey in Nuneaton then converted the door lock attachments to Mark 2, using my old doors.

Mark 2s are difficult because the wings are welded on and then leaded. The shut face panel at the rear of the wheel arches is in steel, but a very complex shape that would today be plastic, and is probably better replaced in plastic with suitable fasteners so one can get in there occasionally to rustproof the aperture. There is a rubber side seal by the wings that is a lovely rust trap !!

 

Very nice work but one question and one observation. What is the hole in the boot floor? Observation is the panel below the bumper--it will show when assembled. Best of luck.

 

The big hole in the boot floor on the left side is the fuel tank access. The plate is being painted separately. There is a hole on the right side above the spare tire holder that is a remnant from the boot air conditioning system. I patched two other holes, but left that one because with the AC system I am putting in, the battery goes on the shelf in front of the jack mount, and i need that hole to run the cables.

Fraser is right about the shut face panel at the rear of the wheel arches. The front one was a bear to replicate. It took about 10 hours of fiddling and finally the welding of four separate pieces to make that one part.

I did get the major components out today. Was pretty easy. A morning loosing fasteners with the car on the lift, and then an afternoon pulling out the parts. I took the advice I have read on the forum and pulled the engine with the front end so I didn't have to get a very tall engine lift to pull the engine out of the top.

Now I finally get to do what I really like to do which is play with the mechanical components. I need to order a bunch of parts, and hopefully will at least get the front end and rear end back in in a few months. I will take advantage of having them out to finish up the under body cleaning and sealing.

Couple of pictures of the parts out.



Empty shell



Engine, transmission, and front end in the background



Rear end

 

I sure would like to find a double belt crank pulley like you have on your engine. I wasn't able to locate one for my air conditioning system and ended up using a three sheave pulley from a 1990 XJS. I had to machine away the outside sheave to make it work. It will probably be fine but the diameter is somewhat bigger than the outside sheave on your pulley.

Anyone have one of these rare creatures that they are not using?

p.s. Looks like you might be searching for a new dip stick tube. Victim of the big lift?

Lin

 

Nice work, however, do I spot a little panel damage at the bottom of the rear skirt on the RHS? Just asking.

 

Thanks ---I am aware of the fuel tank sending unit but wondered about the other (AC) hole. By 1967 the method of routing the AC lines to the unit had changed but perhaps an older unit was installed. They used a unique bifurcated hose which required a large hole as the line was difficult to bend. In any case good work.

 

Yes- it is a 1960 and there were several big holes back there. The engine compartment is an issue too as there are a lot of holes there that will need to be patched.

I still need to do some panel beating on the rear lower panel. Easier to do when it is on a lift and I can get to it. I still have a lot of work to do before painting. The epoxy just seals off the metal and stops further rusting. The epoxy has a little shine to it, and you can see imperfections in the body. I mark them with a marker when I see them so I won't miss them when I am preparing for paint. After I get it on its wheels again, it will have multiple coats of high build primer, sanding, guide coat, more primer, more sanding, and eventually paint, but I am a long ways off from that!

 

Now here's a tip !
The handbrake T-piece compensator fixed to the rear of the diff has two beautiful bronze bushes, (strip it down and look), but no provision for any lubrication at all. I dismantled mine and got a friend to weld a nut onto the side between the two bushes that was the correct thread for a grease nipple.Then I drilled a hole via the welded on nut and then fitted a grease nipple.So my Mark 2 had one extra grease nipple on it. And a handbrake that one could keep working too !

 

That is a brilliant idea. I'll add it to my "to do" list!

 

Awesome to see your progress Chuck!

 

Working through a LOT of parts- cleaning and refurbishing as I go. Sometimes the little things make me happy.



Motor mount before



Motor mount after

 

Always good to have those bits to get some satisfaction quite quickly especially when one have made some slow progress, I like the fairly instant satisfaction of such tasks.

Nice job

 

Exactly. And replacing the "rubbers" will make driving so much more reliable

 

Been a couple of weeks, and I have made some progress. I got the underside of the car cleaned up, epoxied and undercoated. I will probably spray it with primer and paint at a later date. I have the engine compartment cleaned up and painted.



Engine compartment in Old English white.
I wanted to be able to put the front suspension in without spraying it, and also start putting bits back in the engine compartment.

The engine is still at the machine shop. They resleeved two cylinders, and they are all bored out to +20. New pistons from SNG Barratt. The head is being redone- some repairs to water galleries that were corroded, new valve guides, and all new exhaust valves.

The rear end is done, and ready to be mated to the body. I had a local rear end place replace all the bearings and seals and reset the backlash. So it should be like new.




All rebuilt with new bearings and bushings. Plus cleaned up a tad.

Transmission, overdrive, brake calipers are in the hands of Vintage Jag Works Idaho, and should be back around the end of the month.

Still working on the front end. Halfway done. Ran into a problem with one of the end assemblies. I didn’t see new bushings for sale, or the part available new. The bushings were completely shot on one of them, and it all came apart when I was taking it off the center tie rod. Fortunately I had some extra bushings, so I ground them down to size, pressed them into the end assembly, and put a big bolt with a locknut through the whole thing to hold it all together. Should last for another 57 years.




Repaired end assembly

The front suspension should be done in a couple of days, and it is going to be functional with all new bushings, tie rods, bearings and hardware where appropriate.

I think I am finally at that point in the restoration where I am pretty much finished cleaning and refurbishing parts, and starting the re-assembly. It is a nice place to be

 

Lots of progress there, nice job too.

Is the elusive part 133101 ? SNG SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

It does not show on the schematics so many can't seem to find this part.

For interest, what sort of underseal did you use ?

 

Thanks for that link to the part number! I was pretty tickled with my solution, but that is much better and I will be ordering two.

I used Wurth Underbody Seal- Black for the textured underseal. It is sandwiched between the two part urethane epoxy, and then a layer of urethane primer over that. Then the paint.

 

No problem, I did like your solution mind, very ingenious, Wurth are very good products, I used the uPol Raptor, which was not cheap, but it is supposed to be pretty bomb proof, used for truck bed lining so super tough.

Does the Wurth stuff cure up pretty hard ? How much did you use to cover the underneath ? I have another Jag to do, so interesting to hear how you got on with it.

 

Yes- it cures up pretty hard. I have some overspray on my leg that has been there for 4 days now. It is still somewhat flexible on the car as it won’t chip off with rocks, but you can paint over it.
I am not finished with the underside, and I did not strip it as completely as Lin. I think 3 cans will do it. You have to get the sprayer separately of course.

 

Sounds good then, I ill look at that on the next one, stripping the underside is no fun I have to say, I took mine back to bare metal with scrapers, heat gun, wire wheels, sand blaster, basically anything I could lay my hands on get all the damn stuff off, probably didn't need to go that far, but at least I know I have it completely clear of rust.
There were so many gremlins lurking from previous work that was not done well, and created even more built in rust traps which were then covered in bitumen type underseal which holds in moisture if not applied properly or is damaged later, that I wanted to ensure I had got everything.

I then applied several coats of epoxy before I put on the Raptor, I then coated again in epoxy and 2 coats of black enamel to finish it, hopefully I have protected it enough now !

 

Great progress, Chuck!
Lin