Car is almost back on the road !!
Brakes bled, new flexible lines and they work but no power/vaccum assistance.
Its a stupid question, but does anyone have any hints about simple testing etc before I go through the agony of pulling the booster out?
On this particular car, many seemingly complex problems have had simple resolutions.

ple remedies.

 

The easiest way to check if a brake booster is working is to put your foot hard on the brake pedal and start the car. You should immediately feel a softening of the pedal. Should this not happen, check that there is no leak in the vacuum system. If no leak is detected then it's booster out for a rebuild or replacement.

 

First, check to make sure the vacuum line between the engine ( ususally found as a hose leading from the rear right hand side on engine) to the vacuum reservoir is hooked up and no obvious breaks in said line. the reservoir is hidden behind a metal cover in the front right wheel well - so you might have to remove the right front tire to get a good look at it.
If that all looks OK, then start the engine and after a few minutes (pump) the brake pedal with engine idling while listing for any noises emitting from the front of the right hand side of car. If you hear a moan / groan sound you may have a bad booster. There is also a breather filter / port attached to the booster itself that others may be able to shed light upon, but I'm not possessing any knowledge about that part of the booster system.
Good luck !
Schmitty

 

Far easier my way. Guaranteed! Immediately tells you whether you have vacuum to the booster. Buggered or not. Then you can go looking for problems in the vacuum system. You are putting the cart before the horse.

 

The check valve on the vacuum canister may be stuck shut, suspect even more so if it's the original metal type.
That has to be by-passed to test the brake booster.

If the check valve is indeed stuck shut, then no vacuum can build in the system.

 

I think that, so long as the engine is running, the booster should work even with a failed check valve, though less well and with an unhealthy amount of air flowing through the system. If it's old, it should be replaced or have a (much cheaper) modern plastic one put in series. I have the impression that you have already made Glyn's test. After that, look at the line Schmitty mentioned. Apart from being missing or broken it can be collapsed.

 

Peter ~ many people don't recognise or understand this and you certainly don't know that the OP has done or recognised this.

 

Thanks so much!!

 

Thx Schmitty!

 

Thanks JeffR1 - so many helpful people on here

 

Thanks Peter!

 

Assumption is the mother of all mess-ups. I would usually use a stronger term.

 

As you are in Australia and if it turns out that the brake booster is the problem then I suggest replacing it with a PBR VH 40 which is made in Australia.
Rebuilding an original booster is very expensive IF you can find someone to overhaul it.
Shy away from the PBR VH44 as itis not really suitable for disc brakes. It is quite OK on drum brakes and I have one in my 1957 MK1 2.4.

 

Thanks very much Bill !!!!