The 1964 Daimler is almost ready to roll!
I've worked on the fuel system, the cooling system, the SUD carburetor, interior, wiring, ignition, and a variety of other components and systems.

With a lot of help and guidance from everyone here, it has been a learning experience. Now comes the one area that really leaves me aplomb: the brakes.

Before I start on this system, I am requesting advice on the best practices. Included are some pictures of what I believe to be components of the braking system. Truthfully, I don't recognize these components per-se; they all look different from what I am used to seeing on later model American/Japanese cars and trucks.

In the first picture, this component is in the front wheel well area below the wiring for the front head light and just above the front tire. Is this a turbo-charger for the brakes, as I have been told? It does have at least one tube going into it from the interior of the engine compartment, and that tube does seem to connect to the overall brake system, but its purpose is still a mystery.

In the second picture, the white cylander with the screw top is the brake fluid resivour. It is filled to the top, and the fluid is clear and clean. Is the rectangular component immediately to the right an electronic brake pump? Or is it something entire else not related to the braking system? ( Picture three is a top view with what appears to be a ground wire, though I'm not sure ..)

The final picture is what I believe to be the Master Brake cylinder. Is this correct? This is within the engine compartment and is connected to another component ( not pictured...apologizes!) that has tubes going to other areas. Is that component the slave cylinder?

Does the braking system have an electrical component in it to function, including a fuse? Or is it all hydraulic?

What are the best practices and procedures that I can do to check it?
( I have NOT taken off the wheels and inspected all the brakes and their parts yet. I'm waiting first on the advice. )

Thanks and cheers!

 

First picture is the brake vacuum reservoir tank, not the turbo charger.
Second picture, you're correct, that's the fluid reservoir.
The unit next to the reservoir (third picture) is the wind shield wiper motor.
The fourth picture is the slave cylinder/brake vacuum booster, what you have actually photographed is only part of its whole _ your photo shows the "air valve" diaphragm housing.
The actual master cylinder is directly connected to the brake pedal and is near the fire wall.
The line that comes out the bottom of the fluid reservoir is connected directly to the master cylinder.
If you follow the other line from your master cylinder, it connects to the end of the brake booster in the fourth photo.

There are only two electrical components associated with the brake system, the pressure brake light switch (most are mechanical on other cars) and the low fluid warning light switch built into the lid on the brake fluid reservoir.
When the fluid is low, the red park brake light will light up if that system is operating correctly.
That same light also pulls double duty if the park brake is on.

Things to look out for are: when the car is started and there is lots of white smoke coming out of the exhaust.
This can happen when there is an internal leak with inside the break booster. The brake fluid is literally sucked up into the intake manifold and is burned, causing the white smoke. This situation only happens if the brake booster is severely worn.

A spongy pedal: air in the lines. Air enters the system because the fluid in the reservoir has dropped allowing air to enter the system, or the system was serviced and it has not been properly bled.
Air can also enter if one or any number of the calipers are in bad shape causing a leak. These leaks can be vary slight and not necessarily seen on a casual inspection.

The biggest problem you may face is from the system sitting and even more so in an unheated environment.
The brake calipers out on the wheels are not perfect, they allow air to come in contact with the cylinders on the calipers.
When this happens, the cylinder walls rust causing the brakes to seize.
The air also contains moisture that the hygroscopic brake fluid soaks up, further making the rust problem worse.

Some of the calipers may function normally while others may be partially or totally seized.
This of course causes uneven braking.

Also, the flexible brake lines in the front usually become hard and collapse internally.
There is another flexible line that connects the rear axle to the brake system, this can collapse as well.

All of these conditions may or may not be present depending if someone serviced the system, and/or where or how long it has been sitting.

I will ask you this, do you know how to bleed the breaks ?
You may be able to get away by simply bleeding new fluid through the system, but if the flexible lines have never been replaced, then they will probably need to be.
Be sure and check the steel brake lines that are out on the calipers as well as the ones that run across the axle, they can become rusty compromising the safety of the system.

 

I don't think one should take chances on brakes. Your car has an early disc brake system originally developed by Dunlop, but then taken over by Girling.
As such it has some peculiarities like pad withdrawal mechanisms inside the wheel cylinders that modern calipers don't have. Later Jaguars and Daimlers have much more modern systems. There are a few suppliers that provide modern calipers to fit onto the old fixings on the hub carrier.


SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist


I would recommend you buy completely new wheel cylinders for the brakes as a minimum as the existing ones will likely be too rusted internally to be worth saving.

 

As said by Fraser, the brake cylinder pistons and related bores can corrode - especially if the fluid has not been changed on a regular basis. There any a number of re-conditioners around. I used one in Cheshire, UK. Some will re-bore the calliper and sleeve it with stainless steel.

 

Some good options in the US also. I usually rebuild calipers myself, but mine are too corroded, so off they will go. I did check, and rebuilding seems more cost effective than new, although neither option is cheap.

 

I recommend contacting Jag Outlet, Terry at 800 706-5247 for any of your brake parts both new and used.


He also can provide the Wilwood 4 piston front bake upgrade. I have the Wilwood brake upgrade and it is so much better than the stock setup which is not very good in my opinion. I DO NOT recommend buying parts from XK's Unlimited as I have very poor customer service from them.

 

I bleed the brakes.
The initial fluid was an odd amber-looking.
After that was excreted, the new fluid came out clear and clean.
Brake pedal was firm and tight!


Making progress one bit at a time!

 

As others have said brakes are critical, you may get away with new fluid, but I would as a minimum take the wheels off (you can do this one at a time) and with the help of an assistant operate the brake pedal and make sure each cylinder is operating.
Make sure both pistons on each caliper work (move the pads), if one is seized you will see no movement.
If there is rust on the bores/pistons then you may not get a leak straight away, as the pistons are used the rust may score the seals and they will start leaking.
Brake fluid absorbs water, and that together with the air as mentioned before leads to the corrosion which is obviously abrasive.

 

I have to say that I would at least budget for a set of new caliper pistons for the front, and a seal kit for the rears. You may need new discs, but if they are outside the wear limits you could skim them slightly to restore the surface. You may also have to replace the seals in the servo, but first start with what you have already, and maybe first test the car on braking where you won't hit anything or anybody if it lets go. If it swerves left or right you have sticking pistons.

 

Will da all of the above!
Right now, just taking one step at a time.
But the sequence of preventative acts will be done.
I'll take the wheels off and check each caliber.


GOOD ADVICE!