Here is the T5 that I have.

 

That looks like one of the ones designed for an E Type as a drop in replacement for the original 4 speed.

 

I think it is the same gearbox. E-Type conversions seems to be their focus. I assume that the factory box was the same for both E-Type and the Mk2 so the same T5 would work for both. They did advertise that the shifter will be in the stock location. Even the speedo takeoff is Jaguar spec.

 

Heres the economy version....

Rebuilt World Class Mustang T5 from a reputable rebuilder ................... $1000
Ratios are 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.68
Any chevy S10 T5 you can find for tail housing
and top shift plate with shift forks ... $200
New rear seal for the tail housing.. just to be safe ........ $20
Total $1220
Caveat.... the speedo will not work unless you take it to a trans shop for modification of the drive gear location and use a corrected drive gear.. i will be using a gps speedometer so this wasnt necessary for my needs.... also,for mating to a chevy, a $400 adapter plate is needed for ford to chevy bolt pattern conversion...

 

For the speedometer cable, I made my own starting with a Ford cable from an F150, which matches the transmission end. I adapted the speedometer end to the Jaguar fittings and it works well.

Here is a writeup I did for the club magazine years ago.

 

Adjustable torque arms complete! They are in the car but not dialed in. I ran out of time this evening.
Thanks again for everyone's input.
Craig

 

Craig - I realise this may be a bit late for you, but have the spring hangers (the box sections that the leaf springs sit inside) been replaced on your car?

I've recently been working on replacing the left side spring hanger on my Mk2. I bought the four inverted channel sections about 40 years ago and used two on the right side, but didn't get around to the left until now (time flies). I think that I had to make some small adjustments to the bolt holes where the front and centre spring mounts attach back then when I did the right side. It's turning out that the left side needs quite large adjustments. The front bolt holes are out, too far forwards by almost 10mm or 3/8" in old money. Since it's natural to use the front bolt holes to align the box sections, without correction, the centre spring mount and, in consequence, the whole leaf spring would be way to far back. That would make the diff nose point down and push the axle back towards the fuel tank.

Before anyone gets angry with me for criticising aftermarket repro parts, I emphasise these sections were made 40 years ago when standards were not as high and I'm sure those sold now are much better - but I'd still check them vary carefully.

To help with checking, according to the factory service book, the outside rear hole of the rear spring centre mount should be 87.5mm forward of the centre hole of the rear torque (trailing) arm bracket (all measured parallel to the CL of the car, etc).

 

Hi Peter.... Thanks for the follow up.
The spring box/hangers are original to the car and in great condition. I also reused the original springs after disassembly and painting.
I'm wondering if the center rubber mounts have something to do with the axle position. The originals were of course junk and replaced. The new mounts did not fit perfectly inside the cup-shaped clamps. I pushed and pulled as much as I could to get the rubber to center in the clamps but I think here is a little offset. Not much but a few mm for and aft probably contributes a degree or two on the pinion angle.
The adjustable torque arms are in the car and it is now setup perfectly. The transmission is 3 degrees down and the rear end is 3 degrees up. The slope from the trans down to the rear end seems to be around 3 degrees so all pretty spot on. The side to side offset should give me the slight angle the U-joints like to see in operation. I have a local driveshaft shop that I need to contact to have the driveshaft made but I think that will be pretty straightforward.