MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Greetings. '65 3.8S, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit back on the road after 30 years.

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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 07:38 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Cass3958
I can't help Glyn as my original tool kit was stolen by the renovators before I got the car and I have had to make up a tool lit from auto jumbles. I have never seen the plastic valve tool only th ebrass one which I have in my new made up box. David should know on the S type forum or Alan as both have original cars. Failing that put out a survey question on the S Type forum for owners with their original tool boxes and judge the results by year.
If there was a change from brass to plastic I would have thought it would coincide with the BMC/BL amalgamation around 66/67. Best guess would be when a major change came in like the paint colours and Ambla seat material in September 67.
Rob ~ I've posted on the Register as well. I had wondered if it coincided with the plastic toolcase but can't find any reference. Otherwise I'm going brass. JCNA stipulates brass in their concours judging notes for Mk2 but is silent for S Type.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 08:05 AM
  #62  
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Thanks Glyn.
I'll look for that when I get the car back out of storage. I guess they started putting mounting points in all models about the same time
Bryan
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 04:57 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Bonzo
Thanks Glyn.
I'll look for that when I get the car back out of storage. I guess they started putting mounting points in all models about the same time
Bryan
My 67 MK2 has the shoulder strap mount on the parcel shelf. You can see them from inside the boot if you look under the parcelshelf by the hinge.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 05:23 PM
  #64  
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This is a picture of the rear parcel shelf showing the shoulder seat belt mounting bolt holes on a September 1967 S Type Jaguar. Should be the same for the Mk2.
The rear parcel shelf cannot be removed unless you take out the back seat. Once the parcel shelf is removed the bolt holes should be easy to find if they are there. You then need to drill the holes in the parcel shelf to attach the seat belt brackets.
I have seen cars with brackets bolted to these holes which then allow for inertia reels to be fitted but they are bulky. I think I have a set of the brackets and inertia reels in one of my boxes of many things. I decided not to fit the inertia reels and just have standard three point seat belts fitted.



 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 05:44 PM
  #65  
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Thank you - that is very helpful. I know what to look for now!
Bryan
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 05:45 PM
  #66  
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Thank you. I can go ahead and order some belts now
Bryan
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 06:18 PM
  #67  
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When I said under the rear parcel shelf I meant under the upholstered millboard shelf at the points as shown by Cass.

Original:








Back to my question.

I'm at present working on my complete Toolkit ~ with the steel & wood variety case. I have had the wooden tray re-flocked & I've resprayed the metalwork. Just screw heads to be painted & then reassembly.

As stated the kit is complete & correct but I have a question.

Does anybody know what year the Tyre Valve Extractor moved from Brass to Yellow Plastic? I have both.

i.e.






to



 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 2, 2020 at 07:48 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 06:21 PM
  #68  
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My 66 Mk2 has the same holes. Since I have never seen my car in one piece, I was not sure what they were for. Seemed a little excessive to secure a cover. Makes sense now.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 07:09 PM
  #69  
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Bryan ~ see pic above of original S type rear belt/shelf. You might want to find an original set of belts. Rechrome the fittings & have them re webbed as many do in the colour you desire. Some of the modern belt sets have very crude looking mounting hardware. Jag had nice chrome fittings & chromed head bolts. You have a stunning car & you are going to fit another new interior.

Buckles are OK but not original Britax. Rest is cheap & nasty Yellow Passivate Zinc plated stampings.






These people have a fine reputation of re webbing genuine belts.

Safety Belt Services | Seat Belt Manufacturers & Seat Belt Repair
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 3, 2020 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Oct 3, 2020 | 02:14 AM
  #70  
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Thanks again Glyn.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2020 | 04:07 AM
  #71  
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Thanks for support.
I'm at the beginning of the journey, but when I see what you've accomplished, I look to the future with hope



 
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Old Oct 4, 2020 | 07:17 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by roman_mg
Thanks for support.
I'm at the beginning of the journey, but when I see what you've accomplished, I look to the future with hope


We all started at the beginning before we got to where we are now. One thing I would recommend for you to purchase straight away is a rotisserie jig to get your schassis on to do all the welding and painting of the underside. Photo of my S Type on the rotisserie after the welding had been completed and underside painted.



 
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Old Oct 4, 2020 | 09:34 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by roman_mg
Thanks for support.
I'm at the beginning of the journey, but when I see what you've accomplished, I look to the future with hope
Keep at it. It's not for the faint hearted but immensely rewarding & fun.

Good luck on your restoration journey!

Come & join us at the S Type Register as well. Get your car recorded & lots of willing help.

http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_new/index.php
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 4, 2020 at 09:46 AM.
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Old Oct 6, 2020 | 12:13 PM
  #74  
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You will also find this useful. Recommended Parts Suppliers & Services.

STICKY: Parts suppliers and services - THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR "S"-TYPE REGISTER FORUM
 
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Old Oct 7, 2020 | 07:35 AM
  #75  
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Thanks to all
I have "frame". I think, that it's better than holding the car behind the front and rear bumper points.
It twists less. And this is not exactly a light car







 
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Old Oct 7, 2020 | 07:47 AM
  #76  
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That will do the trick but with the chassis sat on top of the frame it looks like it could be top heavy. The joy of the rotisserie I used, I was able to lower the center of gravity of the chassis so it would not fall over but rotated very easily using one hand on its axis.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2020 | 08:07 AM
  #77  
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Yes, You are right.
But there in CZ is usual "frame" type.
But, maybe, the first step of the journey will be change from "frame" to "rotisserie".
 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 04:20 AM
  #78  
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Glyn

You kindly commented on my Mk 1 thread (rear Axle) as a result have just finished looking through your remarkable S type restoration, It made me smile your reference to Virgo attention to detail - enjoy your assets if this is the result of such a virtue!

Beautiful work throughout, my father had a 3.4 s type back in the day in Wawrick Grey with red leather, I have many good memories of this fine motor car.

I'm interested as to why you chose to fit a stainless steel as opposed to a mild steel exhaust system and whether the noise levels are acceptable?

Richard

 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 06:54 AM
  #79  
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Hi Richard. The sound & noise of the stainless exhaust is fine. Even a bit too quiet. The Bell system does not create that tinny rasp that some stainless systems achieve. One is more aware of the gentle whine of the intermediate gears in the sync 4 gearbox. Lots of Dynamat under the underfelt & carpets.

There is a hell of a lot of exhaust on an S type & on a low use car the mild steel systems rot out in no time.

Thank you for the kind comments.





 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Feb 3, 2021 at 07:16 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 01:25 PM
  #80  
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Out of interest I had originally bought a Falcon SS exhaust for the car that a friend of mine wanted knowing that my restoration was delayed by me being sent on expat assignment. So I let him take it and ordered the Bell later. The Falcon was very well made but it did give my friend's car that strange SS sound so I'm pleased I waited for the Bell.

I don't think Falcon or Langford SS exhausts even exist any longer. They were big in the early days.
 
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