After more time than I care to remember, I finally drove my Daimler!


Granted it was only 200 feet in a quick circle, but I DROVE my Daimler.
Thank you Jose, RedTriangle, CSBush, and all the others whose names I cannot recall because I am so giddy with delight.


You folks and your words have helped me with brakes, oil, transmissions, interiors, and more than I can recall right now. After girlfriends on awaiting sentencing, former owners with cancer, repair rip offs, parts stores not wanting to help, parts stores who want to help but know nothing, dealerlships with technicians who weren't born before 1989, laughing fools who wondered why I kept it, bad gas, rotted wires, and more bills and receipts than I care to remember right now, I accomplished a goal than has alluded me since I first tendered cash for the 1964 Daimler:


I DROVE MY CAR!


Words cannot convey.
I actually got a handshake after the ride acknowledging the accomplishment.


THANK you ALL!

 

Congratulations job well done, don't forget some pics.

Jon

 

Great news.

I hope the event was recorded in stills or video .......?

Graham

 

you welcome!! pics please.

 

Very cool. Congrats on a big accomplishment!
Lin

 

Congratulations! That is really awesome Would love to hear more about it as you get it out on the road. Your success is also encouragement for everyone else out here working on getting these cool old cars back on the road.

 

I consider myself very lucky. I found my dream S type in San Francisco and drove it almost 2,000 miles to Nashville through I-40.

the only issue I had was a flat tire in Texas, where I found out there was no THOR hammer in the trunk, but two friendly (and curious about the car) young ranchers stopped to ask if I had a problema, they had a giant fence sledgehammer and with a couple gentle smacks the spinner was lose. They would not even accept payment for their help. Great guys. After that I kept going 80-90 mph !! Hey if it ain't worth driving, it ain't worth having.

The picture below was at the Nashville Jaguar Club a couple months later in Nov. 2004.

 

Congratulations! Great to arrive at that milestone.

I drove my Mk2 around the block (first drive in 3 years since acquisition) and experience vibrations (tailshaft?) so parked it back in the shed. Next morning discovered a pool of ATF on the floor!.

Looks like back to the drawing board for me.

 

It was quite some years ago that I restored my Daimler! However, the first time it started was memorable, as was the first drive to the MOT station where it failed first time - but passed a few days later. Then came yet more work getting it how I wanted it. I wish you good luck and plenty of fortitude!

 

Terrific job. A great Christmas present for you. Hopefully I will be driving my 64 in the NY if all the parts arrive for the brakes.
Have a great Christmas

 

Jeff, GGG, LittleLic, JamBat, Jose, TillyJon, CSBush, RedTriangle, and all the others who've helped along the way: Thank you! Thank you ALL!

Now before the car is taken to the next phase -- actually taking it out on a public road more than 200 feet --- it is prudent to finish off some basic maintenance on the car.

It was idling okay, but would occasionally stall as it got to higher RPMs. It took awhile, but eventually it was able to maintain higher RPMs when the accelerator was depressed as time went on with a the longer idle. I suspect since it was sitting for such a long time without having been run, it took a bit to clear out build up and just to get everything moving again. But even a neighbor noted the engine sounded strong, loud, and smooth.

When the car started to move into drive, it stalled and continued to do that for a bit, It took constant restarts to get it all going again, but it started easily and took more time idling. When it did start to move, everything seem stiff: steering, brakes, etc. Again I suspect the lack of use is probably the cause.

When the car finally did start to go forward, it seemed like a lot of exhaust came out. It went away, but was odd and a bit scary to see. But it did move forward, went into a cul-de-sac, and back into the driveway.

REQUEST: Please share your perspectives on these points and the other maintenance actions I'm considering ( pics below ):


A) There's oil leaking on the exhaust manifold. So I suspect a valve cover gasket got old and cracked. Hence the leak. I'll replace both sides. But what is the proper procedure?

B) Here's the Transmission fluid and oil I'm using -> Castrol. acceptable? Any respective addidtives to either oil or tranny fluid?

Now here's the debate: some people say to check tranny fluid levels while the car is running. Others say while car is off for a minimum five minutes. Which is best procedure?

C) A composite brace that holds up the exhaust pipe rotted off. Buy a new one? Repair? Improvise?

D) Gas line cleaner - Yes? No? Berryman's in the gas? Should I use a 101 octane to burn hotter to clean out any build up in pistons/valves/exhaust?

I'll take it thru to the next phase, get it out on a local low-speed road, and then give update and pictures.

gain, thanks and gratitude to Jaguar Forums and everyone here for the help, guidance, and encouragement!

 

Another consideration that just hit me:

Should I change the oil in the differential?

If so, what it the best practice?
( Run with engine flush before draining? )

Then what gear oil? 90x?

Thanks again to all!

 

The stalling and lots of exhaust are signs of a cold engine with not enough choke.
Once the engine is fully warmed up, all that should stop.
Lots of exhaust is simply a by-product of burning fossil fuel _ water.
It shows up more in a cold engine because the cold exhaust system doesn't dissipate the water as vapour as quickly compared to a hot exhaust.
Also, you're dumping more fuel into the cold engine so it will run _ more fuel, more water vapour.
Try to avoid continually going on these short 200 foot runs, it's not good for the engine.

Best thing for any engine that has been sitting is to let it run for about 30 seconds _ enough time to allow the oil to get to the top of the engine.
Drive it gently until you see the temperature gauge reach it's normal temp.
Then take it on along drive down the free-way at, at least 60 MPH for a good 1/2 hour. (when it's safe to do so of course)
Short in town runs are bad.
More then 90% of engine wear occurs on cold start up, warming you engine up in the morning at idle from a cold start is one of the worst things you can do.

I was never a believer in all this additive crap _ change your oil (and fluids) is the best thing you can do _ don't leave the car sit in a cold damp place for long periods of time, condensation and rust forms in the gas tank under conditions like these.
Bad for brakes too.

Some of the questions I can't answer because they are specific to a Daimler and an automatic transmission (which I've never owned).
Question D).
Taking it on a good run is best, IMO burning higher octane in a car with lower compression is a waste of money.
Filling up with gas will move the old gas out of the lines, I never did believe in all these "snake-oil" products.

If the engine is badly carboned up, there is nothing you can do to get rid of it other then to physically remove the heads and clean the carbon out by hand.
Allot of people swear by this Sea-Foam stuff _ I believe it does absolutely nothing.

Always a good idea to check you dif. oil, even more so if you don't know the history as to when it was last changed.
Most vehicles use 80/90 weight gear oil, but check what it should be for Jaguar/Daimler.

I change mine on a hot summer day after it's been sitting over night.
Any debris will show up from sitting over night.
If you do it after it's been running, any contamination will be all over the gears.

I had an old B2200 Mazda that I drove back and forth for 15 years, 24 miles in and back.
It had over 700,000.00 KM on it and I changed the dif. oil once, and even after all of that millage, it was still clean.

 

D) Gas line cleaner - Yes? No? Berryman's in the gas? Should I use a 101 octane to burn hotter to clean out any build up in pistons/valves/exhaust?

ys, either or. Lucas fuel conditioner for the first two tankfuls.

 

Hi there,

If your car has the BW35 unit, it seems the choice of ATF is crucial.
Here is some advice I "lifted" from the Rover P6 forum, as the 3500 Rover in auto form uses the same tranny:

"These gearboxes have some unexpected characteristics liable to catch out the unprepared home mechanic. This article attempts to talk you through some of them.

To start with, the fluid level checking procedure is stated incorrectly in several places in the Rover Factory manual and the workshop manuals. The correct level check is as set out here, drawn from the experience of experts and from the Borg Warner manuals.

First drive the car sufficiently for the transmission fluid to be hot, say 15 minutes. Make sure the gearbox has spent time in all three forward gears and in reverse immediately prior to halting the car, and also run the selector through all gear positions immediately after bringing the car to a stand with the engine still running. This is to make sure that the torque converter and all passages in the valve block, along with the clutch servos are full of transmission fluid. They otherwise drain back into the gearbox sump and give a false reading. Do not switch the engine off. You should then dip the gearbox immediately with the engine running at idle, and top it up to the “hot” level on the dip stick.

The correct fluid level is crucial to gearbox behaviour, having a high or low fluid level will cause harsh, late or early changes and a harsh drive take up.

When topping up the gearbox fluid, you MUST use the correct fluid – ATF-G or Ford spec M2C-33G. Other fluids sold for modern automatics are normally Dextron based and destroy the integrity of the clutch and band friction linings. The gearbox will almost certainly fail after only a couple of thousand miles with Dextron instead of the correct fluid".

I am of the opinion the Castrol fluid you are using (if its Dextron) should be drained/flushed out, lest damage be caused.

Cheers & beers.

 

In regard to the diff oil, I believe EP90 is the correct refreshment.
Good idea to change it for a car with unknown service history (like mine - it only had about a cupfull in it!)
Personally, I find the smell of 90 quite nauseating. I think it has very high sulphur content.

 

I use Castrol GTX motor oil in my older cars. I am a believer that frequent changes is more important than the oil as most modern oils are good. I do include a quart of Valvoline racing oil (same viscosity) in with each oil change as it adds a little ZDDP anti-wear additive.
Looks like your broken exhaust bracket is a simple bolt on fix. You can get that bracket from SNG Barratt.
You are probably correct on the valve cover gasket. But I am not familiar with the Daimler. I assume it is a simple procedure, but don't know if they also require sealants on the gasket. Should be a simple a rewarding fix though