I think I just used a bunch of rags packed in there to hold the locking ring in place.
I had the carbs removed though, so I may have been able to carefully slip it in place with out disturbing the locking ring bolts.

 

Sorry I know we are OT for this: Please refresh page for my edit/warning.

 

Let's go back OT then.
Nice that everybody is so involved in sharing their experiences.

I finally got the starter out of the car. I wonder how long it will take to get it back in.

Anyway I think it's the starter motor itself that is causing the issue because the gear doesn't push back anymore.

If I fix this, will the problem be solved then?

 

Might cost more to repair that than buy a new High Torque starter. Looking at the damage to the teeth though I would also check the teeth on the starter ring/flywheel. Not easy to do without the use of a camera positioned to look either in the hole the starter motor has just come out of or by removing the two gauze covers on the bottom of the bell housing (On the BW35 auto box but not sure if a manual gearbox bell housing has them) and sticking the camera up inside the bell housing with a torch. Pointless replacing the starter if the teeth on the starter ring/flywheel are all chewed up as this would only damage the new starter motor once fitted.

 

There is a small cap under the car that covers the flywheel gear.I already felt that the flywheel was rough but it didn't feel chewed up.
I'll take a look underneath it and see if I can spot in what state it is

 

I want to test the starter with an external battery but since plus is earth. Where do I put the minus and where do I put the plus of the battery?

 

On the end cap of the starter is a copper bolt. This is where the power goes (don't worry about if your car is pos or neg earth as the starter is out of the car.) Connect the positive side of your battery to this terminal and attach the negative side of the battery to the body of the starter motor. When the starter is in the car it earths through the body of the starter motor through the engine block to earth. Have the starter clamped down or in a vice as there is quite a bit or torque and you don't want it falling off your work bench onto your foot.
When connected up what should happen is the toothed ring will throw forward as if to engage on the starter ring and spin at the same time. When you turn it off the ring stops and returns to its resting position.

This is the brass terminal on the starter end cap marked with the yellow arrow.

 

Thanks, let's see how it works.

I decided to go with a high torque new starter and sell this one.
The gear of the flywheel still looks acceptable in my opinion.


Do you know which starter motor I should get because the one you mentioned before looks a bit different than this one?

 

The high torque starter motors do not look like an original Lucas unit. But you can't see them. Whereas the Alternator/Dynamo conversion which you can see looks identical. The high torque gear set makes it impossible to make the starter motors look the same. Use what Cass recommends above. That gear set is part of the torque multiplication/increase.

 

If you contact this company https://www.powerlite-units.com/starters/rac302.html they should be able to tell you what starter you need for your application. Looking at the website page I would assume you need the RAC302 as when you scroll down to the bottom of the page it lists the 240 1967 to 1969 as one of the Jaguars it fits.

If you look at the photos in #3 you can see there is no similarity between the old starter I removed and the new Auto starter I fitted but they all line up and work perfectly.

Your fly wheel is a bit chewed up but other than pulling the engine and changing the starter ring on the fly wheel there is not a lot you can do. Cheaper to buy a spare tooth cog for the new high torque starter than to pull the engine and change the starter ring. Besides they will eventually wear the same pattern in each other and as long as the Starter cog is not spinning on the starter ring as your last one was you will not be doing any more damage.

 

Shipping from UK is a bit expensive but I found this one and I think its the same:
https://www.mecatechnic.com/nl-NL/po...BoCtgwQAvD_BwE
Does the starter gear pop out when activated and hits the flywheel gear or does it not work like that?

 

That looks like the right one and it is from Powerlite just the Dutch side not the English side. Just to be sure a phone call to confirm before purchase is always recommended.
Yes the gear cog pops out along spindle to mate with the flywheel ring gear.

 

My new starter finally arrived and I am ready to fit it to the car but I want to be sure that I am doing it right so a little help would be appriciated.
There is a cable coming from the battery which was attached to the bolt with the red arrow.
Do I need to bolt that same cable to the new starter bollt located at the green arrow and leave the with cable on it as well?

 

Interesting because neither of the new high torque starter motors I was sent came with that extra lead so mine is not fitted with it. The cable from the battery starter solenoid on the bulkhead goes onto the bolt as it did on the old one. There is only one cable attached to the starter motor but I would say if that extra cable is attached I would read the instructions and follow what they say. Gut feeling is leave it in place but not sure what it is for. If in doubt phone the supplier and ask them.

 

Also check the number of teeth on the pinion.

 

Yours seem to have that attachment but without a cable. What I figured was to test it on a seperate battery with starter cables.
When it works then I try mounting it without the cable and if it works just leave the cable off. When it doesn't work, put the cable on.
Would this be a good idea or could there be a hazard of shorting something without the cable?

 

To be honest I do not know.
Did the starter come with instructions? If not then wait until Monday and phone your supplier and ask them. I do not know what that extra cable is for or what would happen if you disconnected it even though mine does not have it does not mean that yours is the same. I have tried to zoom in on the yellow tag but I cannot get a clear view of what is written on it. A clearer view of that yellow tag might help as we could read the instructions. For all I know it might say "Warning remove wire before fitting".

This is what was written on my yellow tag. "Carefully read all instructions before installation".

 

Maybe that extra cable energises the throw in solenoid on your model. Cass what connects to this Lucar tab on your car?

 

That is the strange thing Glyn I have nothing attached to this tab on mine?
As I said I have tried getting a close up of the yellow warning tag on Robs new starter but there are not enough pixels to get a good read of it. What concerns me is there is a large red plastic band around the wire which would indicate "Remove me".​​​​​​​

 

Stranger & stranger. I'll almost bet that energizes the throw in solenoid. Maybe yours is internally wired. In fact I would earth the body of the starter & apply 12 volts to that tab briefly & see what happens. These starters are robustly wired.