MK2 front suspension stub axle shims?
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From: Florida
MK2 front suspension stub axle shims?
Are shims used on the front suspension stub axles to adjust end float? The service manual doesn't mention them and the spare parts catalogue doesn't list them, but I have a nagging feeling that they are supposed to be used. Maybe I am just remembering using them on my Big Healey. So would some knowledgeable person disabuse me of this notion if they are not necessary, so that I can get on with this.
I do know that shims are used for the disc brake calipers.
Thank you.
Lin
I do know that shims are used for the disc brake calipers.
Thank you.
Lin
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Lake Cowichan BC Canada
The parts catalog doesn't show any shims ???
End float ???
The way I do it is to simply snug up the castle nut until there is no play in the bearings and then back the nut off until I can line up the cotter pin with the nearest slot in the nut.
New cars a loaded on the bearings, but not these old Jags.
You want a slight bit of play in the bearings, they're not supposed to be dead tight.
End float ???
The way I do it is to simply snug up the castle nut until there is no play in the bearings and then back the nut off until I can line up the cotter pin with the nearest slot in the nut.
New cars a loaded on the bearings, but not these old Jags.
You want a slight bit of play in the bearings, they're not supposed to be dead tight.
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Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Bath UK
Hi Lin,
Just to help clarify, Jeff is correct as in that is the way most people do it, technically the end float should be between 3 to 5 thou.
As you now any taper bearing must have some end float otherwise it will bind and wear very quickly.
The end float on the Jag is simply adjusted by loosening / tightening the crown nut, you only have the amount between the castleations for adjustment, so in practice its exactly as Jeff has said, you can obviously check it with a DTI to make sure you happy with the end float, the manual states 1 or 2 flats backed off from zero end float, not sure what the TPI is, but 2 flats seems like it would be too much (but I may be wrong) You could easily calculate the float per flat from the TPI.
Just to help clarify, Jeff is correct as in that is the way most people do it, technically the end float should be between 3 to 5 thou.
As you now any taper bearing must have some end float otherwise it will bind and wear very quickly.
The end float on the Jag is simply adjusted by loosening / tightening the crown nut, you only have the amount between the castleations for adjustment, so in practice its exactly as Jeff has said, you can obviously check it with a DTI to make sure you happy with the end float, the manual states 1 or 2 flats backed off from zero end float, not sure what the TPI is, but 2 flats seems like it would be too much (but I may be wrong) You could easily calculate the float per flat from the TPI.
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From: Crewe, England
Yes, I confirm that it is all done by the hub nut. The stub axle is drilled for a split pin and the nut itself is castellated. You take up all the play then back of one or two flats then insert the split pin. It may,however, have a plain nut and a shaped cover that takes the slit pin, but the principle is the same.
A word of caution - check the lower side of the stub axle for wear. You'll easily feel it with your finger nail where the edge of the bearing sits. The bearing inner races are not all that tight a fit and over time the load, which is on the underside of the stub axle, causes movement to start, and then wear.Even if you take up all the bearing play, this wear will prevent the correct bearing clearance from being set up. I replaced the stub axles on an '80 XJ I once had. Getting the old ones off is an interesting task and involves a "talking hammer". This hammer just "talks" to the stub axle and it then falls off easily !!
A word of caution - check the lower side of the stub axle for wear. You'll easily feel it with your finger nail where the edge of the bearing sits. The bearing inner races are not all that tight a fit and over time the load, which is on the underside of the stub axle, causes movement to start, and then wear.Even if you take up all the bearing play, this wear will prevent the correct bearing clearance from being set up. I replaced the stub axles on an '80 XJ I once had. Getting the old ones off is an interesting task and involves a "talking hammer". This hammer just "talks" to the stub axle and it then falls off easily !!