So hear is one of my dilemmas with my MK2. I bought a full rubber kit from Welsh Jaguar. A long piece of weatherstripping is supplied for the doors. Bu I cannot fathom how it is supposed to fit. It is a bit like a U shape with one long leg, and one short leg. The logic says it goes in the groove with the legs facing out. But if I try to put it at the front or rear of the door jamb, then the long leg will stick out up to 3/8" and will look ridiculous when I shut the door. The photos might show what I mean. The only place I think it will fit properly is the rear door jamb behind the chrome window surround. Anyone have any experience they could share?

 

Just to clarify. Photo 1 is under the door sill tread plate. It sticks out about 3/16" beyond the rocker panel. Photo 2 is the front door jamb behind the riveted on strip. It sticks out here too. Photo 3 is the B pillar. I think this is the only place it will work. Photos 4 & 5 are the rear door jamb (lower B pillar) sticking out a good 1/4 inch.
I suspect that this is just a generic weatherstrip and Welsh have made no effort to supply a proper reproduction. I may be wrong?

 

The other big frustration here is that if I get the sequence of assembly wrong, I will have to take it apart later and redo it all again. So I cannot put the doors on until I have at least the front weatherstrip, and something to close the door against. If I put the top strip in and run it down the A pillar, I will not be able to assemble the interior, because the screws that hold the wood in place are buried under the rubber from the outside. I did not want to do the interior until I had the basic car back together, but I have to assemble the interior before I glue the weatherstripping in.
Am I waffling now?

 

I suggest looking at the Kriss Motors project blog (fairislepress.com) and look at his entry on door seals. Pretty good description although I don't know that it answers your questions.


As to the fit- I know there have been some discussions here on which seals fit best...

 

Wow, thanks csbush. That website is a pretty incredible record of 'how to's. I am sure I will be using that a lot. It seams I was trying to use the seal (instinctively) the wrong way around. I will have another look today with this new info in mind. Once again, thanks for directing me there. At least if I know I am doing it correctly, (trying to do it correctly) it will remove one big layer of unknown, allowing me to proceed with a bit more confidence.
I briefly looked at the windshield post too. It seams I am doing that wrong as well by trying to install the metal strips after I have got the glass in the car.

 

Looks like it's the sill seal rubber. The longer arm of the 'U' needs to be at the top, but the last time I fitted door seals it was the mid-80s so my memory may have failed me.

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

 

Fraser is correct (again). The longer side of the seal should be opposite to what is shown in photo 1. I used the Barratt seals and they work as well as can be expected. In saying that, I have yet to see reproduction seals that fit perfectly on any car I have restored!

 

Hi csbush,
Do you have a link for me? I can't find it,
Thanks,
Alex

 

Hi Alphatrev,
Do you have a link for me? I can't find it,
Thanks,
Alex

 

it looks like you might have it upside down or reversed, something like that.

also if you rub vaseline to the rubber "T" side, it slides easier into the channel.

same extrusion as the rubber seal at the rear side of the sliding roof panel in the XJ body.

 

Messy gluing in a few spots but this car is supposed to be correct. Any joints of same profile should be cut at 45 or appropriate degrees. Superglue/cyanoacrylate works a treat on 45 deg joints (foam rubber to foam rubber). Seals can look a little lumpy until they have had a door closed on them for some time.

Tom Carson's Mk2 and Norton

 

Hi,
Those seals are the long way round, the short lip fits against the B pillar
Regards,
Alex

 

Thanks, but I sold and scrapped all my Jaguars. I even had to cut one up just to get rid of the body shell. It was a shame, but I am happy to have moved on as these cars just did not seem to work for me. I have good rust free bumpers, deck lid and trunk lid, and loads of interior parts. I advertise them but do not get a single inquiry. I concluded in the end that in the USA they are not worth the restoration cost.

 

I'm amazed that someone at Jag Lovers has not pointed it out. Always interested in learning. Can you give me a reference please (original car). I think the short lip is against the B pillar

 

I got this one wrong today myself. Will be regluing (arrgh!) the WXstripping. I don't know what kind of arrangement the MII's have but my S has a channel riveted into the A and B pillar leading edge, (impossible to clean or glue while in place). Drilling out the rivets and gluing your rubber on before reinstalling the piece and reriveting it worked for me. Just measure your leading edge piece of rubber with a little slop at the ends and cut your 45 degree angle (miter box and bread knife) before super gluing the ends to the top and bottom pieces. Alphatrev do you have the dress moulding clips that fit over and cover the space in the front and rear windscreen dress metal insert Cs where they meet?

 

A post seal retainer. B post is similar ~ less top curl. They have to come off before fitting seals. I had 2 donors to copy so I know my seals are correct.

 

One of the worst jobs I had to do on my restoration. I had hell of a job getting them to stick I even sent samples to glue manufacturers. I settled for a top quality PU sealer and superglue. I was told by the supplier that these were the best seals on the market............... I would have hated to have seen the worst!!. The doors still need slamming after three months but they are slowly getting easier. There must be some one out there that can make a decent rubber kit that's easy to fit

 

You might end up thanking the door slamming for a while. We find in SA that many of the seals from the UK perish very quickly in our climate & show micro cracking very early in their life if you stretch them slightly. Our local Mk2/S Type seals last forever but do require a bit of door banging for a while.

Who persuaded a local rubber company to make all the rubber bits for a Mk2 I would love to know. They can't possibly make any money out of them. Selling pedal pad by pedal pad.

We found giving seals an acetone wipe down made them easier to make stick. (pure acetone. Not oily acetone like ladies use to remove nail polish.)

 

there was, he was an engineer in Finland who remanufactured Jaguar MK in the 1990'S and he came up with a better solution / extrusion for the door seals. His website name was FIBOY.
Unfortunately he went off-air.

Also unfortunately, you purchased those seals from welsh who substitutes parts because "they work" NOT ! I already had a similar experience with welsh and substituted parts.

Next time you need parts, check with SNG Barratt USA store, normally the parts they supply are correct specification.

 

I fitted a Barratts UK kit & they fit perfectly but I'm not sure I like their rate of deterioration (door seals). Time will tell. People on the Register say COHBaines seals are the best out of the UK. Who knows.

I have tried 3 manufacturer's NDV (quarterlight) front seals & they all leak (under hose pressure while washing ~ I'm now very careful not to put a hose near them). Maybe one day they will settle.