There is no torque setting for the rear hubs, they have a castle nut and split pin, so an actual torque setting would not work precisely with this set up, do them up real tight, then go to the nearest slot and your good to go.

There is no special trick, they simply slide on the taper, just keep them square and central as you slide them on so you don't scrape the seal edge on the threads and use a little copperslip on the taper.

 

With the pinion seal make sure you mark the nut before you remove it and COUNT how many turns it takes to remove it, this is what you need to wind the nut back on and tighten to the mark.
With the hub bearings I would be inclined to rotate the hub as you are tightening it, do not wrench it up too hard maybe 20 pds/ft and then back off to the nearest split pin hole.

 

Getting access to the pinion seal is on the list for today. I appreciate the guidance on marking and removal of the nut.

Update on the hub pulling -- like I mentioned in prior post they came off without too much trouble. Yesterday I spent some time getting access to the hub seals and getting things cleaned up. Wire brushed the axle tapers to get them nice and smooth. Upon threading the axle nuts back on I came to realize that on one axle I must have compressed the end a bit and therefore the nut would not thread back on. The other nut/axle took some dressing of the threads with a small file, but eventually threaded on without issue. At this point I have a 7/8" UNF die on order to chase the threads on the non-compliant axle. Hopefully that's all that's required.

I'd read about someone putting a nail into the cotter pin hole to keep it from compressing. Now I understand why. You wouldn't think it would make that much difference, but I guess when putting 5 tons of force on it with a hydraulic puller that little hole is enough weakness to allow the axle to deform. Live and learn. Threads themselves look okay.

Guess my rear hub adventure have not yet concluded! I've also come to learn this is not an uncommon problem. Copaslip on order for reassembly.

 

Pinion nut tightening torque is 120 - 130 lb/ft Service manual page A4

 

Tom,

Were you successful with rethreading the axle end? I appear to have the same problem on one of my axles.

 

I won't have the die until later this week, so probably won't be until next weekend when I give it a go. It's also been suggested to cut a nut in half and start it on the inside of the axle in a socket and work it back to towards bad threads. With the die coming I think I'll catalog that idea for a later date, but sounds like a good one.

Pulled the yoke off the pinion today...that was pretty straightforward. All marked and turns counted for a consistent reassembly.

 

There is a torque setting for the pinion nut, see my previous post, Service Manual page A4, you don't mark the nut and count it back on, torque it to factory settings instead.

 

Tom

It works! I borrowed a thread chasing die and used it to rethread the axle I managed to damage. I also used thread cutting oil so the threads wouldn't feel too much pain. The nut now goes on as intended. I had to put a wooden block under the part that connects to the drive shaft and hold it with vice grips because the threading die was biting very hard on the damaged axle. So, you should have the same success.

 

Received the die last night, so will have a go tonight or tomorrow and will report back. I fully expect it will work...but I'm an optimist :-)

Threads are actually not that messed up...so do truly expect this is a non-issue.

 

I chased the threads yesterday and all is good. Was an easy fix with the right tool. New castle nuts spin right on now.

Also put in the new pinion seal and torqued the flange to 130 lbs. On now to painting and then final assembly.